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Going to have my Jeep dealer install them tomorrow.
I sent him you YouTube video link so it should be easy. Shouldn't cost too much and it will save my back.
Could probably do it myself but I like to keep my Jeep dealer in the loop. They have finally gotten used to my strange requests.
Planning on putting a little thread locker on the threads, I have learned from experience that suspension parts can loosen.
 

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I'm not convinced this (metal clamps) is a good idea. The way I see it, if something bad happens the plastic clamps break, saving more expensive damage on the strut towers (or whatever these are called). Of course there's a margin where the plastic would break but no other damage would occur. But the risk calculation just doesn't add up for me. Or am I mistaken on the reasoning behind the plastic clips? Are they purely a cost saving measure and has no 'fuse' function?

On the comfort level, I'm also not sure why these would be more quiet than the OEM plastic ones? What's the thinking behind why this is the case?
If you are doing something so violent that it is capable of damaging the strut tower itself then you have far bigger problems. I work for a company that designs and builds structural components for cars and trucks and I am very familiar with how strut towers are engineered. My facility builds strut towers (and all other structural steel components) for 2 different types and brands of domestic vehicles. Most strut towers are made to have the strut bolt to the tower itself, I’m not a fan of how the Cherokee’s struts attach but I can see the advantages to only having one hole in the center for the cap instead of 4 for the cap and 3 bolts from a structural standpoint. I think the metal clamps are a good idea as they will keep the strut from getting loose and eliminate the possibility of the plastic clip breaking. I’d say if there is slop in the system the plastic clip will be the first point of failure and the strut dislocated from the tower sounds like a bad day for everyone involved. They probably picked the plastic ones for a cost and NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) mitigation standpoint and testing proved that the plastic rings provided acceptable performance through the standard warranty period plus an acceptable margin with “normal” real world use of most of the vehicles they would be used on i.e. average road use.
 

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If you are doing something so violent that it is capable of damaging the strut tower itself then you have far bigger problems.
Not disagreeing here :LOL:

Most strut towers are made to have the strut bolt to the tower itself, I’m not a fan of how the Cherokee’s struts attach but I can see the advantages to only having one hole in the center for the cap instead of 4 for the cap and 3 bolts from a structural standpoint.
Not a fan either. It's clearly much easier for production but it sure is not as easy working with after that.

I think the metal clamps are a good idea as they will keep the strut from getting loose and eliminate the possibility of the plastic clip breaking. I’d say if there is slop in the system the plastic clip will be the first point of failure and the strut dislocated from the tower sounds like a bad day for everyone involved. They probably picked the plastic ones for a cost and NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) mitigation standpoint and testing proved that the plastic rings provided acceptable performance through the standard warranty period plus an acceptable margin with “normal” real world use of most of the vehicles they would be used on i.e. average road use.
Hmm. Good points all. I might be reconsidering my thinking on this.
 

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Hmm. Good points all. I might be reconsidering my thinking on this.
It's definitely a good idea, and one of the simplest upgrades you can do. Like I said, I think it should be done on every Cherokee, whether you go offroad or not. Pop those covers off and take a look, and you'll definitely agree...😎
 

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Jeep dealer installed MFC high performance strut clamps. Used blue Permatex Medium thread locker.
They do not move around. Off road test drive pending.
You're a farmer, you could have done that in 10 minutes taking your time. Every farmer I know can fix anything...LOL!!!😎
 

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Refer to Post #26
Road test completed.
Based on driving on bumpy private road, my off road trails and on ripply elevated highway concrete, front end vibrations did not change.
Checked the clamps when I got home and they are still firmly attached. Good job Permatex thread locker.
So my front end harmonic rattle is caused by ESC being ON, driving too fast and 40 PSI hot tire pressure.
After I air down after Winter, turn ON partial ESC and slow down, the harmonic rattle should be reduced.
 

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So my front end harmonic rattle is caused by ESC being ON, driving too fast and 40 PSI hot tire pressure.
After I air down after Winter, turn ON partial ESC and slow down, the harmonic rattle should be reduced.
So what exactly is "hot tire pressure"? Nominal tire pressure is checked cold. E.g. 36 PSI is 36 PSI, hot or cold - adjusted at "cold" temps of course. Yes, 36 PSI at 32F would be much higher at 90F - but that's why you adjust for the current ambient "cold" temperature. Even though the colds temps might be different, the same PSI should have the same driving characteristics. At least it works that way for me.
 

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Checked EVIC and hot tire pressure is about 40 PSI.
Cold tire pressure now that it has warmed up is about 36 PSI.
I need to adjust the air pressure to 33 PSI on some cool Summer morning.
Now that it is warming up lower tire pressures should work better off road and on the ripply concrete road. Turning ESC OFF also helps.
Let the tires absorb the vibrations rather than make the struts do all the work.
 

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What's the latest on these? Do they actually do anything?
Yes, they do. I would recommend them for all Cherokees, whether you go offroad or not...If you do install any lift, they are an essential, and required part of the installation...😎
 
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