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Figured it out... Access to the wiring is via the sunshade storage in the dash...easily removed. The piece of carton covers the whole presumably intended for the Alpine 9 speaker front center tweeter.
Awaiting delivery of my Alpine KTP445U unit, going to pry loose the trim around the uconnect screen tomorrow.
How did it turn out?
 

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So here's a sub question. I will hopefully be bringing over my box (Infinity sub and class D amp) to the Cherokee (that I don't own yet).

If you do NOT get the upgraded audio with the rear sub from the factory is there a prayer that the wires are already in the back for me to hook into?

If not, does anyone have a wiring schematic to tell me which wires are what for the stock, non-upgraded stereo?

Will
 

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Hi,
When I did my speaker/amp upgrade from the base 6 speaker I did not find any additional wiring. In fact, the space for the dash center speaker
is devoid of any wiring so I would imagine there isn't any wiring for the other speakers in place either. Sorry!
 

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I wanted the factory 9 speaker system but they had none in the 2015 Cherokee Limited at the time. I should have ordered the one I wanted and waited the 10-14 days but you know how it is when you are sitting in the car that has everything else you wanted. I figured I could upgrade the audio for less than the factory installed price. Did you find out how much the factory sub enclosure and inside panel cost?

Also - does the extra Alpine amp connect directly to the back of the factory 8.4N radio? I have a brand new pair of 3 way INFINITY 6953i Reference Speakers 6x9 that I bought a few years ago for my Mitsubishi and never installed them.. Thinking of installing in the doors just to see how the factory system drives them. Would you put those in the front or rear doors to experiment? I will have to get another pair of speakers for the other doors...

The Infinity 6953i are not made any more....Crutchfield says the Infinity speakers are 1/4 inch too deep to fit the Cherokee. I will have to try them out and see if they will fit - 1/4 inch seems mighty small to worry about.

GB45
 

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2 weeks? What are you smoking? :grin:

It's been 3 since I've ordered mine and that's still early in the game.
Dealer told me it would take 10 to 14 business days to get the model I wanted. Maybe it was already on the production list. Anyway I am glad I did not wait...

GB45
 

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After reading up on a couple other door speaker upgrades I understand the speaker clearance in the door speaker boxes is 3.25 inch. Since my INFINITY 6953i REFERENCE 3 way speakers are only 2 7/8 inches deep they should fit just fine. I guess the replacement speaker websites I checked out like CRUTCHFIELD do not have the correct info so I will have to try them out and see how they work out...

GB45
 

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Fusseli, did you ever nail down your choice and install.

Also, does anyone know what frequencies Uconnect sends to the stock speakers.

Doors get the full signal, I assume. But the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter #72 (Edited)
Fusseli, did you ever nail down your choice and install.

Also, does anyone know what frequencies Uconnect sends to the stock speakers.

Doors get the full signal, I assume. But the dash?
Sorry, I forgot about this thread! It diverged a bit anyway.

Ya, I got four Alpine Type-R SPR-69 6x9s and the JL C2-350x for the dash. I am running the dash open-ended (no HPF) because a passive HPF will interact poorly with the speaker's natural resonance (fs of 180 Hz on the 350x). This works great with a 1st-order Butterworth LPF on the woofer in the door, the natural roll-off of the 3.5" in the dash happens in the 150 to 200 Hz range (manufacturer's frequency response is a lie).

To make it happen, the rear doors was a straight drop-in of the 6x9s. For the front doors I removed the tweeters from the Alpines and added a 1 mH series inductor, which makes about a 200 Hz crossover point. Then the 350x were a drop-in into the dash. The overall sound is great and the imaging is seamless. The only downside is that the dash 350x can't handle much bass and will distort, but I've found that doesn't happen until stupid volume levels (above 25 on the dial usually). Electronic crossovers would mitigate that, but those are big $$ compared to my approach that uses the stock system in it's entirety without any extra amps or other nonsense. Just good sound from the factory equipment, including deeper and smoother bass!

:)

In my tests I determined that the dash and door are not filtered, both are wired in parallel to the Uconnect without any filtering to speak of.

After this design and test I also strongly recommend against using inline/passive "bass blockers" for dash speakers, the series capacitor will create a sharp resonance based on the speaker's own inductive resonance and IMO the result is not worth a 1st-order HPF to block bass.
 

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Wow, that is very interesting what you did there. Let me get it straight, you have full signals to the dash and rear doors, but use the front doors as midbass @ 200 and up no tweeter. Am I getting that right.

I have been all active with the Pioneer DEH-80PRS head unit and DIY drivers (Vifa XT25SC90 and Vifa 6.5 premium made for M&K) for a while now and passive components before that, so figuring out what to do with the Uconnect was throwing me.

I think I'll pretty much copy what you've done. I don't want to mess with a DSP and amp.... yet.

I did remember I had these Wavecor drivers tucked away from some sale. I think I'll play around and throw them in tomorrow while I decide for certain.
 

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Discussion Starter #74 (Edited)
Wow, that is very interesting what you did there. Let me get it straight, you have full signals to the dash and rear doors, but use the front doors as midbass @ 200 and up no tweeter. Am I getting that right.

I have been all active with the Pioneer DEH-80PRS head unit and DIY drivers (Vifa XT25SC90 and Vifa 6.5 premium made for M&K) for a while now and passive components before that, so figuring out what to do with the Uconnect was throwing me.

I think I'll pretty much copy what you've done. I don't want to mess with a DSP and amp.... yet.

I did remember I had these Wavecor drivers tucked away from some sale. I think I'll play around and throw them in tomorrow while I decide for certain.
That's right, and the dash roll off at about 200 Hz all on their own to complete the mid-bass crossover. The stock dash speakers probably die even higher, like 300-500 Hz, and have less output.

I thought about using a 3" full-range driver in the dash but decided not to since the dome tweets in a coaxial should have better off-axis. It might be a mute point though since they are more or less aimed at the windshield anyway.

Here's a pic of the SPR69 I modified, I took off the tweeter and original crossover parts and soldered in the inductor (I used a 20ga 1mH, should be ~200 Hz for most 4 ohm woofers) and zip tied it in place. Clipping the wires probably would have sufficed. Used speaker adapters from Crutchfield so everything was a drop in. I also used foam gasket tape around the flange of each speaker to ensure a tight seal and added some 3M damping mats while the panels were off.
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
For the technically inclined, here are the TS parameters I measured from drivers in the base 6 speaker system. The Fs is high on both speakers, the dash speaker is for ambient fill more than anything. The ~80 Hz Fs on the stock 6x9 along with the high Qts clearly explains the booming of the stock system in the upper bass region. For comparison, the Alpine SPR69 I used have an Fs 10-12 Hz lower and a more tame Qts.

6x9 Base 15W Chrysler 4 ohm
Re 3.68 Ohms
Fs 78 Hz
Qts 1.274
Qes 2.096
Qms 3.248
Le(1k) 0.557 mH

3.5" Base 15W Chrysler 8 ohm dash tweeter w/ 2.2uF series cap
Re 7.75 Ohms
Fs 301 Hz
Qts 1.75
Qes 3.44
Qms 3.56
Le(1k) 0.526 mH
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Thanks for the pics and the update!
No problem.

An alternative approach that would be cheaper yet would be to disable the dash speakers and forget about them, drop in nice 6x9s in the front doors and aim the tweeters up, and then in the back doors do 6x9s modified to be midbass units (tweeter removed, LPF added).
 

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No problem.

An alternative approach that would be cheaper yet would be to disable the dash speakers and forget about them, drop in nice 6x9s in the front doors and aim the tweeters up, and then in the back doors do 6x9s modified to be midbass units (tweeter removed, LPF added).

That would be ideal to me, but I thought you said somewhere that NAV and bluetooth commands route through the dash.

Would you be able to still make and hear handsfree calls from bluetooth?
 

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Of course. That's fantastic. Thanks.

I have a mess of older car audio equipment to sell. All of it way to big for the Cherokee, so I can splurge a bit. Maybe add an amp (Precision Power P900.4, Alpine MRV-F300JBL, MS-A1004) if I can find a place around the dash. They're all small and would give me crossovers to play with for the rears.... or maybe just the inline Alpine that Wolf mentioned earlier.
 
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