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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I ahve the Uconnect 8.4A system with 6 speaker sound. As noted in other threads, in the 6 speaker system there are a pair of 3.5" in the dash (8Ω), and 6x9s (4Ω) in all four doors. The system actually sounds really good considering the stock speakers are usual paper cones ($7/ea Mopar). They are clearly putting a lot more design effort into making the same old cheap speakers sound good and I have no doubt that the Uconnect system is working some factory calibrated magic to help the sound, and likely already has preset time alignment and such. The system is bass thick, by ear I'd guess it's good down to the 50-60Hz range, I set the EQ to -2 on the bass, +3 mids, 0 treble and have been satisfied for now. It really reminds my of the Bose system in my buddy's Silverado, the first impressions are good then once you listen for a while it's grating. I didn't opt for the premium option, 9 speaker 506W Alpine branded system, after seeing the total option is $1200 (with the 8.4AN nav system), reading that it was mostly the addition of a tiny sub module, simple upgrade to poly cones ($20/ea Mopar) on the woofers, and the addition of two more 3.5 inchers in the back. Reviews show people are pretty satisfied with both sound systems. As an audiophile I am not and hopefully for a few hundred bucks I can knock it out of the park.

What I can't decide is how to upgrade the speakers in the front. The separation from the doors to the dash is so great that it makes me not want to install component speakers and put tweeters in the dash, I also don't like the idea of putting components in the doors and having the tweeters aimed at my knees. I like the Alpine SPR-70C, as I have the previous model in another car and liked them a lot, they could be mounted in the door/dash or all in the door, disabling the dash 3.5", with a 6x9 adapter. Another promising option is the Focal ISS 690, which is a relatively rare 6x9 component set with 1st-order crossovers which I think would be the best-case for mounting a tweeter 2'-3' from the woofers.

Then my wild plan B that appeals the most to my engineering instinct is to design my own proper system with a 3.5" in the dash and a mellow ~300Hz crossover to a 6x9 or 6" midbass in the door like the CDT CL69. The downer there is that there are very few high end 3.5" car audio speakers, the JL C2-350x is about as good as it gets. I have a woofer tester to I could easily buy any sets of speakers I want and properly design filters for them. Plus how much better could a 1" tweeter with a 1st order HPF be, even if it's from Focal, than a decent 3.5" coaxial? That being said, what about something like the W3-1053SC

Thoughts or ideas? Speaker suggestions?
 

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I did this cad today for an audio engineer I do shows with.

Gave me an idea...screw the Alpine upgrade...I'm going full bore! I'm hanging one each side in the cargo area...just as soon as I can find a panoramic sun roof rigging kit. :laugh:



 

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I ahve the Uconnect 8.4A system with 6 speaker sound. As noted in other threads, in the 6 speaker system there are a pair of 3.5" in the dash (8Ω), and 6x9s (4Ω) in all four doors. The system actually sounds really good considering the stock speakers are usual paper cones ($7/ea Mopar). They are clearly putting a lot more design effort into making the same old cheap speakers sound good and I have no doubt that the Uconnect system is working some factory calibrated magic to help the sound, and likely already has preset time alignment and such. The system is bass thick, by ear I'd guess it's good down to the 50-60Hz range, I set the EQ to -2 on the bass, +3 mids, 0 treble and have been satisfied for now. It really reminds my of the Bose system in my buddy's Silverado, the first impressions are good then once you listen for a while it's grating. I didn't opt for the premium option, 9 speaker 506W Alpine branded system, after seeing the total option is $1200 (with the 8.4AN nav system), reading that it was mostly the addition of a tiny sub module, simple upgrade to poly cones ($20/ea Mopar) on the woofers, and the addition of two more 3.5 inchers in the back. Reviews show people are pretty satisfied with both sound systems. As an audiophile I am not and hopefully for a few hundred bucks I can knock it out of the park.

What I can't decide is how to upgrade the speakers in the front. The separation from the doors to the dash is so great that it makes me not want to install component speakers and put tweeters in the dash, I also don't like the idea of putting components in the doors and having the tweeters aimed at my knees. I like the Alpine SPR-70C, as I have the previous model in another car and liked them a lot, they could be mounted in the door/dash or all in the door, disabling the dash 3.5", with a 6x9 adapter. Another promising option is the Focal ISS 690, which is a relatively rare 6x9 component set with 1st-order crossovers which I think would be the best-case for mounting a tweeter 2'-3' from the woofers.

Then my wild plan B that appeals the most to my engineering instinct is to design my own proper system with a 3.5" in the dash and a mellow ~300Hz crossover to a 6x9 or 6" midbass in the door like the CDT CL69. The downer there is that there are very few high end 3.5" car audio speakers, the JL C2-350x is about as good as it gets. I have a woofer tester to I could easily buy any sets of speakers I want and properly design filters for them. Plus how much better could a 1" tweeter with a 1st order HPF be, even if it's from Focal, than a decent 3.5" coaxial? That being said, what about something like the W3-1053SC

Thoughts or ideas? Speaker suggestions?
There is very little info available on what speakers fit. Crutchfield is the only one who lists any info and their list is limited( I posted it here in another speaker thread )to round speakers that need adapter plates which suck. It appears the mount depth in the doors is very shallow, in the front especially, and that severely limits your options. I wanted to run the same brand and model speakers I had in my Patriot but they won't fit from the info I can find.

Right now I am just waiting for someone to mount some 6X9's and post the brand and model so I can see the depth and have an idea. Another member measured in there and as I recall 3" is about the max depth you can go and that is deeper than Crutchfield says the room is?

I 100% agree with you about not running component speakers. using 6X9's in the doors( when we can find some that fit )and upgrading the dash tweeters to me is the way to go. I don't agree that the stock system sounds good at all though. Very muddy and poor to my ear but everyone has different opinions on things like sound.

Another member installed these tweeters in the dash and says they sound great...

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_61824_Infinity-REF-3002cfx.html
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There is very little info available on what speakers fit. Crutchfield is the only one who lists any info and their list is limited( I posted it here in another speaker thread )to round speakers that need adapter plates which suck. It appears the mount depth in the doors is very shallow, in the front especially, and that severely limits your options. I wanted to run the same brand and model speakers I had in my Patriot but they won't fit from the info I can find.

Right now I am just waiting for someone to mount some 6X9's and post the brand and model so I can see the depth and have an idea. Another member measured in there and as I recall 3" is about the max depth you can go and that is deeper than Crutchfield says the room is?

I 100% agree with you about not running component speakers. using 6X9's in the doors( when we can find some that fit )and upgrading the dash tweeters to me is the way to go. I don't agree that the stock system sounds good at all though. Very muddy and poor to my ear but everyone has different opinions on things like sound.

Another member installed these tweeters in the dash and says they sound great...

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_61824_Infinity-REF-3002cfx.html
Yeah, the Crutchfield info makes me weary also, but for some reason I doubt it. The guy here that did the Focal install up front and disabled his dash tweets said there is 3.25" of mounting depth in the door, and the potential need to trim a plastic piece.

http://jeepcherokeeclub.com/65-electronics-audio-lighting/34914-front-door-speaker-install-upgrade.html
 

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My current vehicle is a Jeep Compass. I currently have the following loot that I plan on transferring over. It sounds incredible:

2 pairs JL C3-650's (with 6x9 to 6.5" mdf adapter plates)
JLHD900/5 5 channel amp


The C3's sound great. They are a convertible speaker that can have the tweeters with the woofer like a triaxle setup, or they can be separate like a component set. These speakers are component speakers with their own crossover, but the tweeter has great flexibility.

I plan on putting the tweeter in the dash for the front pair, and keeping the tweeter with the woofer for the rear pair.

Checking the mounting depth, the C3's have a depth of 2.55" so that would fit the above issue. Mounting plates would actually "raise" the speaker a little bit, and what will limit me is how much room I have for my plate and the extrusion of the c3 at maximum volume (cant have it bashing up against the grill now)

http://www.jlaudio.ca/c3-650-car-audio-c3-convertible-systems-99022
 

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I actually sell and Install Car audio for a living. Here is what I can tell you and will update it more as I finish figuring out what will/ has th epotential to sound the best.

I have the basic 6 speaker system

Dash is a 2.5 speaker, mounted into a 3.5" plate.
Front doors are a 6x9. Not sure on depth yet.
Rear doos are 6x9 with 3.25"depth. There is actually a plastic housing behind the speaker, with approx an additional inch before the window. the lower part has the metal from the door there, but could easily be trimmed out. In 17 years of installing, I haven't seen a 6x9 that wouldn't fit. so trimming the metal is probably not necessary. MAYBE some old blaupunkt, or audiobahn with giant magnets would lead to an issue.

The Cargo speakers are a 2.5", so my system at work tells me, I havent pulled off those panels yet.

As far as what you want to put in as an "audiophile" is going to come down to who's doing your install, and how much you want to spend.

Technically a 6x9 speaker is horrible for sound quality because its not balanced. A speaker moves in and out, and an oval moving in and out is not as accurate as cone moving in and out. Think of it this way. Take a piece of paper, put your finger in the middle, and now move the whole thing up and down. notice the lag or whip on the longer sides from all the way up (xmax) to all the way down. That "whip" will cause distortion. HOW MUCH distortion, is a different story. Human ear, at normal listening volumes, will never hear it.

HOWEVER, a 6x9 as more surface area than a 6.5, and therefore will move more air, which will result in more bass. So if you're looking for more bass, the 6x9 will be the best bang for your buck. OR you can put a 6.5 in there, get a little better sound quality, but lose some bass. it WILL be noticeable.

NO where it gets more whacky.

If you decide on 6.5 speakers, it will get tricky because a component will sound better, but to not have sound gaps, you will have to put the tweeter within 12 inches of the mid.
This gives you 2 options. Off set the mid and tweeter in a plate and put in the factory location. .. OR... center the mid, and mount the tweeter in the door panel. you DO NOT want to put the mid in the door and the tweeter in the dash. There will be a noticible gap in sound. (youl will clearly hear "tweeters" up top, and bass down low.

OFFSET in a plate will cause you some issues because the 6x9 opening behind the factory speaker is tapered, and if you try to put the mid off center, the magnet will hit the side of the 6x9 adaptor/mount in the door resulting in having to modify the factory opening, AND making a plate to hold the speaker.

SIMPLEST thing to do without killing your staging, and your wallet, would be to put a GOOD set of 6x9 in the door. Maybe the Polk Momo, Pioneer TS-D sieres, Memphis, JLaudio. Figure out what kind of TWEETER you want on that 6x9 as that will decide your sound quality. A titanium tweeter will be brighter, a SOFT DOME will be a smoother/warmer sound. A simple COAX 6x9 in the door, with yout tweeter prefrence.

NOW.. for the dash... again decide on your tweeter type and just put a 3.5 with that type of tweeter in there, OR just get a 1" or 2" tweeter and make a mount for it. MB Quart makes a decent inverted soft dome tweeter.
Yes, you will have a 6x9 with tweeter in the door, and an additional tweeter in the dash.

Next wed, I am actually going to put in my "test system" which will be Pioneer ts-d 6902 in front and rear doors, Kicker 3.5 in dash. off Factory 8.4n

Alpine PDX-v9 digital 5 channel to run the 4 doors, and sub, once the factory sub housing and panel come in. I am NOT going to amp the dash, as the Factory are pretty loud and get the staging up @8 ohm. Dropping to a 4 ohm(the kicker ) will make it approx twice as loud,at the same volume setting on the radio.
Basically when I change out the dash they will be louder than factory, and not need amplification, but the doors will be @ the same "audio volume" and seem quieter than the factory.plus kicker is known for brightness in their tweeters, I dont want to have ear fatigue.
Im going to put the factory sub housing in, then replace my rear 1/4 panel with the factory 1/4 panel that comes with the 9 speaker.

Add aftermarket sub to factory housing. Hopefully my Audiobahn AlumQ 8' fits, if not. again MB Quart makes a good shallow mount 8" sub.

IF.. IF... I cant get the factory sub housing to work as I want, out goes my Spare tire, and ill make a custom fiberglass/mdf box that fits 2 8" subs in the spare tire well. Or course with a holder for 2 cans of "fix-a-flat" (since I dont have a tire in there)

Its a pretty simple system.

5 channel amp, 6 speakers and sub. Im just going to do the speakers first, and see how it sounds to determine if I need 1 or 2 subs.


Been doing Audio a LOOONG time. MECP MASTER certified, and Im pretty confident it will sound good, and a 1000x better than factory, simply with the TS-D 6x9 in the doors, and a sub. with a digital amp on it. The Kicker in the dash im a little weary about, because of kicker tweeter sound. but its easily available to me to see how I like it.
 

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For those that DONT want to add a sub, but want better sound. replace the door speakers, add the ALPINE KTP-445u power pack digital amp to run the doors, and replace the dash with a 4ohm 1" tweeter or a 3.5 of some type.

Can do the 4 doors, dash, for approx $250. plus approx $200 to install
Alpine "brick amp" $150. approx $80 ish to install it.

the KTP-445u, can take high level inputs (8.4a or uconnect 5" speaker wire straight into it)
then output to the factory wiring.
Draws apptox 4amps of current @ 45w RMS to each of 4 channels. Doesnt need large guage power or multi channel RCA.

Can also do the same thing without touching the dash speakers, but you WILL lose some bass when you change out the factory speaker. Aftermarket speaker will need more power to achieve the same bass. Teh difference is, the aftermarket will be louder, more clear, and have a tweeter in it.
 

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@Wolfz23 1000x better is in the ear of the beholder. At one point or another you are just throwing good money after bad in search of the elusive "sound stage" and proper "imaging". It's all good fun but in the end it's a project never finished and a bank account drained. That's just my own burned out opinion of course. I'm happy to listen to the engine in my car these days and just tool along the highway on occasion.
 
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I actually sell and Install Car audio for a living. Here is what I can tell you and will update it more as I finish figuring out what will/ has th epotential to sound the best.

I have the basic 6 speaker system

Dash is a 2.5 speaker, mounted into a 3.5" plate.
Front doors are a 6x9. Not sure on depth yet.
Rear doos are 6x9 with 3.25"depth. There is actually a plastic housing behind the speaker, with approx an additional inch before the window. the lower part has the metal from the door there, but could easily be trimmed out. In 17 years of installing, I haven't seen a 6x9 that wouldn't fit. so trimming the metal is probably not necessary. MAYBE some old blaupunkt, or audiobahn with giant magnets would lead to an issue.

The Cargo speakers are a 2.5", so my system at work tells me, I havent pulled off those panels yet.

As far as what you want to put in as an "audiophile" is going to come down to who's doing your install, and how much you want to spend.

Technically a 6x9 speaker is horrible for sound quality because its not balanced. A speaker moves in and out, and an oval moving in and out is not as accurate as cone moving in and out. Think of it this way. Take a piece of paper, put your finger in the middle, and now move the whole thing up and down. notice the lag or whip on the longer sides from all the way up (xmax) to all the way down. That "whip" will cause distortion. HOW MUCH distortion, is a different story. Human ear, at normal listening volumes, will never hear it.

HOWEVER, a 6x9 as more surface area than a 6.5, and therefore will move more air, which will result in more bass. So if you're looking for more bass, the 6x9 will be the best bang for your buck. OR you can put a 6.5 in there, get a little better sound quality, but lose some bass. it WILL be noticeable.

NO where it gets more whacky.

If you decide on 6.5 speakers, it will get tricky because a component will sound better, but to not have sound gaps, you will have to put the tweeter within 12 inches of the mid.
This gives you 2 options. Off set the mid and tweeter in a plate and put in the factory location. .. OR... center the mid, and mount the tweeter in the door panel. you DO NOT want to put the mid in the door and the tweeter in the dash. There will be a noticible gap in sound. (youl will clearly hear "tweeters" up top, and bass down low.

OFFSET in a plate will cause you some issues because the 6x9 opening behind the factory speaker is tapered, and if you try to put the mid off center, the magnet will hit the side of the 6x9 adaptor/mount in the door resulting in having to modify the factory opening, AND making a plate to hold the speaker.

SIMPLEST thing to do without killing your staging, and your wallet, would be to put a GOOD set of 6x9 in the door. Maybe the Polk Momo, Pioneer TS-D sieres, Memphis, JLaudio. Figure out what kind of TWEETER you want on that 6x9 as that will decide your sound quality. A titanium tweeter will be brighter, a SOFT DOME will be a smoother/warmer sound. A simple COAX 6x9 in the door, with yout tweeter prefrence.

NOW.. for the dash... again decide on your tweeter type and just put a 3.5 with that type of tweeter in there, OR just get a 1" or 2" tweeter and make a mount for it. MB Quart makes a decent inverted soft dome tweeter.
Yes, you will have a 6x9 with tweeter in the door, and an additional tweeter in the dash.

Next wed, I am actually going to put in my "test system" which will be Pioneer ts-d 6902 in front and rear doors, Kicker 3.5 in dash. off Factory 8.4n

Alpine PDX-v9 digital 5 channel to run the 4 doors, and sub, once the factory sub housing and panel come in. I am NOT going to amp the dash, as the Factory are pretty loud and get the staging up @8 ohm. Dropping to a 4 ohm(the kicker ) will make it approx twice as loud,at the same volume setting on the radio.
Basically when I change out the dash they will be louder than factory, and not need amplification, but the doors will be @ the same "audio volume" and seem quieter than the factory.plus kicker is known for brightness in their tweeters, I dont want to have ear fatigue.
Im going to put the factory sub housing in, then replace my rear 1/4 panel with the factory 1/4 panel that comes with the 9 speaker.

Add aftermarket sub to factory housing. Hopefully my Audiobahn AlumQ 8' fits, if not. again MB Quart makes a good shallow mount 8" sub.

IF.. IF... I cant get the factory sub housing to work as I want, out goes my Spare tire, and ill make a custom fiberglass/mdf box that fits 2 8" subs in the spare tire well. Or course with a holder for 2 cans of "fix-a-flat" (since I dont have a tire in there)

Its a pretty simple system.

5 channel amp, 6 speakers and sub. Im just going to do the speakers first, and see how it sounds to determine if I need 1 or 2 subs.


Been doing Audio a LOOONG time. MECP MASTER certified, and Im pretty confident it will sound good, and a 1000x better than factory, simply with the TS-D 6x9 in the doors, and a sub. with a digital amp on it. The Kicker in the dash im a little weary about, because of kicker tweeter sound. but its easily available to me to see how I like it.
Awesome info Wolfz!!! Good luck and I'm sure we all expect details after your install! 100% agree w the kickers in the dash. I just put some in and they scream w cymbals and other highs almost too harsh! I need to replace the door speakers but I'm waiting for more info before deciding and amping. I've done the dash and added the powered fosgate sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks for the input Wolfz23.

I agree with everything you've said. The 12" you mention for tweeter and mid spacing is spot on, my napkin math says that would be safe for anything up to a 1.1kHz crossover point. High crossovers would need to be even closer together. BTW I'm an electrical engineer and have been an audio hobbyist for many years.

Yes, I am considering high end 6x9s or the CDT 6x9 midbass drivers in order to get more bass out of the 6 speaker system without a sub. In my last vehicle I had awesome results adding an amp and upgrading the factory 8" small sealed sub. I don't want to sacrifice a lick of space in my Cherokee though so I went for the 6 speaker sound with plans to upgrade.

I also agree with your approach to a 6x9 in the door and fullrange in the dash. What I plan on doing, and would recommend, is at least adding in an LPF to the 6x9s in the door shooting for about 300Hz. That and disable the coaxial tweeter if there is one. The dash speaker may or may not not need an HPF since it's so small it won't get below a few hundred hertz anyways. There would be lobing in the frequency response of the system from having two high frequency sources in the same plane, it's the exact same property of physics why you don't separate tweeters from the mids (signals out of phase don't add nicely).

Right now I like the idea of the JL C2-350x for the dash and I trust JL far more than JBL/Infinity/HK. Does anyone else know of a high end 3.5" coaxial?? There seem to be so few. In the mass market realm 3" full range speakers seem to fit the location (2" depth, 3.2" bolt circle) and the only suitable one I've found is that TangBand W3-1053SC. I'm just not convinced the highs will sound as good as a coaxial, even if it is flat past 20kHz.
 

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Right now I like the idea of the JL C2-350x for the dash and I trust JL far more than JBL/Infinity/HK. Does anyone else know of a high end 3.5" coaxial?? There seem to be so few. In the mass market realm 3" full range speakers seem to fit the location (2" depth, 3.2" bolt circle) and the only suitable one I've found is that TangBand W3-1053SC. I'm just not convinced the highs will sound as good as a coaxial, even if it is flat past 20kHz.
Fountek FR88EX looks like it might work. 3" is going to start beaming at around 5K but I would give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Fountek FR88EX looks like it might work. 3" is going to start beaming at around 5K but I would give it a try.
Thanks for the driver suggestion! And yeah that's what I'm mostly worried about, a 3" full range not having as good of dispersion as a coaxial. Although maybe it's a mute point since either is more or less aimed at the windshield.
 

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Thanks for the driver suggestion! And yeah that's what I'm mostly worried about, a 3" full range not having as good of dispersion as a coaxial. Although maybe it's a mute point since either is more or less aimed at the windshield.
Another one that looks close is the Peerless 830986/830987

One problem with all these full-range small drivers, including the JL coax, is they are inherently low-efficiency (around 85db) so crossing over to the midbass is going to be a challenge unless you use an active crossover or have a similarly-inefficient midbass.

Just poking around, if you wanted a dedicated midrange, the FaitalPRO 3FE22 is pretty efficient and could probably fit with a little dremelling.
 

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one more thought:
You might be able to shove a midrange dome in there like the dayton RS52. The metal faceplate is removable, the rest is plastic. That would help the dispersion but crossing over at 500 might be a stretch. It has a pretty epic breakup at 13K, but if you are of a certain age or have attended enough concerts you might not need a notch filter ;)

I have a RS52 with dented dome (removable faceplate, ahem) that you can have for shipping if this is something you might try. Personally, I am kind of sick of fiddling with DIY car audio projects so I am just going to order the Alpine system and hope it's decent.
 

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I forgot to say, I would also put a cap (bass blocker) on the dash @ 300hz. Im sure they wont get low accurately anyway, but keeping all sub and mid bass freq out of a 3.5 is best at all levels and volumes.

You could put an inductor on teh 6x9's in the front doors to keep any tweeter freq out, which in turn would keep your staging more accurate. I personally dont think it will be necessray. I think the 3.5 firing into the window will reflect enough to keep the stage up front, and tweeters being directional and firing at your legs would only help bridge any gaps in sound between the dash and doors.

All equipment is sitting in my shop, just waiting for me to have a day off to/time to install it.

Whoever talked about dampening, I will be adding dynamat extreme to critical areas, The rear doors were decently insulated (rubbery foam) from factory, so I'll mainly be covering the door skin (the back side of the part that actually faces outside)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Another one that looks close is the Peerless 830986/830987

One problem with all these full-range small drivers, including the JL coax, is they are inherently low-efficiency (around 85db) so crossing over to the midbass is going to be a challenge unless you use an active crossover or have a similarly-inefficient midbass.

Just poking around, if you wanted a dedicated midrange, the FaitalPRO 3FE22 is pretty efficient and could probably fit with a little dremelling.
one more thought:
You might be able to shove a midrange dome in there like the dayton RS52. The metal faceplate is removable, the rest is plastic. That would help the dispersion but crossing over at 500 might be a stretch. It has a pretty epic breakup at 13K, but if you are of a certain age or have attended enough concerts you might not need a notch filter ;)

I have a RS52 with dented dome (removable faceplate, ahem) that you can have for shipping if this is something you might try. Personally, I am kind of sick of fiddling with DIY car audio projects so I am just going to order the Alpine system and hope it's decent.
Can't you remove the diaphragm and smooth your own dent? I fixed a dented RS28A in my home system that way in a matter of minutes. I don't think the RS52 is very well suited for the Cherokee application. Response isn't low enough for me to be comfortable and the dome may even protrude too much to fit under the dash's grill. I'm not worried about the low sensitivity, that's actually going to be an advantage. A rising response below a couple hundred hertz is desirable for good sound in a car, plus midbasses with lower Fs will have inherently lower sensitivity, which will be a great combo. I haven't decided on a midbass yet but I really want to try and make those CDT 6x9s fit. The only level matching of the dash and door will have to be with passive components anyways since that can't be controlled in the Uconnect, probably a series resistor on the dash or hopefully none at all. That's another part of this project I am saving for last, I plan to stick an oscilloscope and RTA on the door and dash speaker outputs to see if the Uconnect is doing any filtering from the factory and also compare signal levels. This is another doubt I have of the idea of putting full range components in the doors and disabling the dash. I also will be using a woofer tester to properly size my 6dB HPF/LPFs.

And ya I would say car audio is a lot harder to actually get right. There are many more constraints than other audio applications and a lot of junk speakers and equipment that gets peddled out there. Plus, car makers are clearly putting more design work into the factory systems since they are sounding as good s they do these days with the same old cheap drivers. I really can't blame them though, $100 per vehicle times 100,000 cars is a lot of cash to waste when your average joe will be happy with the stock system anyways.


I forgot to say, I would also put a cap (bass blocker) on the dash @ 300hz. Im sure they wont get low accurately anyway, but keeping all sub and mid bass freq out of a 3.5 is best at all levels and volumes.

You could put an inductor on teh 6x9's in the front doors to keep any tweeter freq out, which in turn would keep your staging more accurate. I personally dont think it will be necessray. I think the 3.5 firing into the window will reflect enough to keep the stage up front, and tweeters being directional and firing at your legs would only help bridge any gaps in sound between the dash and doors.

All equipment is sitting in my shop, just waiting for me to have a day off to/time to install it.

Whoever talked about dampening, I will be adding dynamat extreme to critical areas, The rear doors were decently insulated (rubbery foam) from factory, so I'll mainly be covering the door skin (the back side of the part that actually faces outside)
That's great, I am glad to hear you are adding the HPF. That can only help. I disagree with running the front door speaker full range without an LPF though. It may sound fine but the chances of unwanted interactions like comb filtering of the response is far greater, and can only be fixed by limiting high frequencies to a single source on each side. And for dynamat you will be adding it to the inner side of the removable door panel, right? Interesting idea :D It looked like the front doors have a lot of parts in the way to make dampening tougher. I've also noticed a lot of sound escapes the Cherokee with the stereo up, it must be the back-wave inside the doors leaking out. Any ideas to mitigate that without tearing the whole door apart to get inside?
 

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UPDATE:

Put the kicker KS35 3.5" 4ohm in the dash today. Put a 200hz Bass Blocker on them.
Extremely bright, and much louder.So much louder than the factory that you can barely hear the vocals that are coming from the front doors. Mostly because the factory were 2.5" and 8 ohm, vs the kicker @ 4ohm.

I also put Pioneer TS-D6902 in the Rears. I did have to modify the opening in the rear doors to allow the 3.5" depth of the new speakers. Was simple and literally took 15 seconds per door. Just had to cut out the back plastic that was behind the factory speaker. I used my angle die cutter (air tool) with a rotozip drywall bit.

In comparison to any speaker out there the pioneer TS-D6902 has to be one of the largest baskets and magnets Ive seen, so Rest assured that whatever 6x9 you get for the back, It Wont take much to get it to fit.

Rears are much warmer sounding, and not as "muddy" sounding as the factory. Bass response was the same, and Tweeter/acoustics DRAMATICALLY increased. (new speaker added a 1.25" soft dome tweeter, and the factory has NO tweeter)

I will be putting an amp on the front and rear doors, once it comes in. (alpine PDX-v9)
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
UPDATE:

Put the kicker KS35 3.5" 4ohm in the dash today. Put a 200hz Bass Blocker on them.
Extremely bright, and much louder.So much louder than the factory that you can barely hear the vocals that are coming from the front doors. Mostly because the factory were 2.5" and 8 ohm, vs the kicker @ 4ohm.

I also put Pioneer TS-D6902 in the Rears. I did have to modify the opening in the rear doors to allow the 3.5" depth of the new speakers. Was simple and literally took 15 seconds per door. Just had to cut out the back plastic that was behind the factory speaker. I used my angle die cutter (air tool) with a rotozip drywall bit.

In comparison to any speaker out there the pioneer TS-D6902 has to be one of the largest baskets and magnets Ive seen, so Rest assured that whatever 6x9 you get for the back, It Wont take much to get it to fit.

Rears are much warmer sounding, and not as "muddy" sounding as the factory. Bass response was the same, and Tweeter/acoustics DRAMATICALLY increased. (new speaker added a 1.25" soft dome tweeter, and the factory has NO tweeter)

I will be putting an amp on the front and rear doors, once it comes in. (alpine PDX-v9)
Ah, I wonder then if the front and rear 6x9s are the same. That makes more sense too why the 9 speaker Alpine option adds a set of the rear pillar 3.5s. The plastic trim looked the same on the rear doors as the front doors, right? The basket you referred to and trimmed. I am optimistic of a bass improvement if the new 6x9s sounded the same without any break in, did you take any measurements?

I may just have to pick out some CDTs :) Just need to decide what 3/3.5" to run. I've pretty much ruled out components at this point, the only thing that would make sense would be a 3-way but I don't want to add protruding tweets to my dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I've been pouring over what little specs there are on the CDT drivers and I'm not feeling convinced for the price, I feel the same with the Focal ISS 690. Sensitivities are high and the rest of the specs aren't usually shown, which to me is telling of marginal quality with a dressed up appearance. I see two options for the route I want to go, one is using a non-car audio midbass like the Goldwood GW-6PC (which may be too big to fit) and probably save money and get just as good if not better quality, or get the woofers only from some JL C2/C3/C5s to go with the C2-350x coaxials in the dash.

I also put Pioneer TS-D6902 in the Rears. I did have to modify the opening in the rear doors to allow the 3.5" depth of the new speakers. Was simple and literally took 15 seconds per door. Just had to cut out the back plastic that was behind the factory speaker. I used my angle die cutter (air tool) with a rotozip drywall bit.

In comparison to any speaker out there the pioneer TS-D6902 has to be one of the largest baskets and magnets Ive seen, so Rest assured that whatever 6x9 you get for the back, It Wont take much to get it to fit.
Those Pioneers look nice, they clearly have 6dB crossovers and you can see internal damping material through the tweeter membrane which is also a sign of quality.
 
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