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Been reading and reading. What is clearance on front doors? Looking at fosgat pps4-6. 2 5/16 mount depth. From what I can see they will work. Input please
 

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I have these JBL's in my 2014 2 15/16 inch depth as well. In both front and rear doors and fit is no issue at all. Windows clear with no issues. I chose them since they are 2.3 ohm speakers and take advantage of the factory 9 speaker amp output the best since the stock speakers are 2 ohms. They sound awesome btw good bass and treble without being harsh. Much much better than the stock speakers for response and range. One of the few aftermarket speakers that are under 4 ohms. JBL GX962 6"x9" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield
 

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I have these JBL's in my 2014 2 15/16 inch depth as well. In both front and rear doors and fit is no issue at all. Windows clear with no issues. I chose them since they are 2.3 ohm speakers and take advantage of the factory 9 speaker amp output the best since the stock speakers are 2 ohms. They sound awesome btw good bass and treble without being harsh. Much much better than the stock speakers for response and range. One of the few aftermarket speakers that are under 4 ohms. JBL GX962 6"x9" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield
Apparently, according to Crutchfield, those are now discontinued and NLA. Well damn!!!😎
 

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Yes I've had them for a few years now but I believe JBL has a current replacement model if you were interested. I was more answering the op's size question since those JBL's are the same physical depth as the speakers they were looking at. But yes the JBL's are awesome speakers.
 

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I chose them since they are 2.3 ohm speakers and take advantage of the factory 9 speaker amp output the best since the stock speakers are 2 ohms.
On my 6 speaker system the dash speakers were 8 ohms and the doors 4 ohms. I have no idea why they had 8 ohm ones in the dash. I think they figure that as long as there is something installed which passes for a speaker than all is good.

I replaced all of mine with 'real' 4 ohm speakers....night and day difference in sound quality.
 

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Yes I've had them for a few years now but I believe JBL has a current replacement model if you were interested. I was more answering the op's size question since those JBL's are the same physical depth as the speakers they were looking at. But yes the JBL's are awesome speakers.
Cool, I'm looking for door replacements that are plug and play for the 9 speaker system. The stock ones are just like muddy, mini woofers that suck...😎
 

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I read (think it was jeepgarage) that they wanted the dash speakers to act more as fill in, so they went with the 8 ohm to tone them down.
 
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I read (think it was jeepgarage) that they wanted the dash speakers to act more as fill in, so they went with the 8 ohm to tone them down.
Yes, that does tone them down, but still doesn't make sense for the overall sound. The dash speakers are the closest ones to your ears and the sound is going up and reflecting off the windshield towards you....which is all good. Meanwhile the door speakers are down by your feet.

To my ears I'd say the dash speakers are the most important speakers in the 6 speaker setup and the door speakers provide the bass and the fill in.

Anyway, for the 6 speaker setup, I'd recommend that all the speakers be the same ohm rating despite what Jeep did. 🙄
 
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Yeah even the "upgraded" speakers in the 9 speaker system are a joke. The door speakers are just full range plastic cones and the dash and rear piller speakers are just cheap full range paper cones. In my 2014 the dash speakers foam surrounds were already deteriorating and that was 2 years ago. Nothing is Alpine that I could tell. The amp is not even that great and would love to replace it but with the uconnect system no way I can find to easily bypass the factory amp and still have sound from an aftermarket amp. Car stereo buddy told me uconnect head unit would have to be replaced as well to get something with RCA outputs to hookup a proper amp. Modern infotainment is great until you want to start upgrading it. Then it becomes annoying real quick.
 

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...The amp is not even that great and would love to replace it but with the uconnect system no way I can find to easily bypass the factory amp and still have sound from an aftermarket amp. Car stereo buddy told me uconnect head unit would have to be replaced as well to get something with RCA outputs to hookup a proper amp. Modern infotainment is great until you want to start upgrading it. Then it becomes annoying real quick.
Check this out: PAC Audio ap4-ch41-r2
 

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The auto maker that comes out with pre and sub outs as say, a $200.00 option would be a force to contend with! :unsure:
 
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The auto maker that comes out with pre and sub outs as say, a $200.00 option would be a force to contend with! :unsure:
That would be to easy. They would lose all that labor $$$ when amateurs like me try to upgrade stuff, and eff everything up, and have to have them fix it...LOL!!!😎
 

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Lindy, how you like the morels?
I'm too lazy to retype :) so you can find my comments on them in this thread.....

 

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Been reading and reading. What is clearance on front doors? Looking at fosgat pps4-6. 2 5/16 mount depth. From what I can see they will work. Input please
3.5" with spacers is about the max total height - unless you start cutting your door panel / window mount apart. Not much room to play with on the back side, but you have about an extra inch you can move toward the door panel grill with. I've got JBL GTO930's in at 3.66" and it is slightly flexing the panel grill, but is secure.

On my 6 speaker system the dash speakers were 8 ohms and the doors 4 ohms. I have no idea why they had 8 ohm ones in the dash. I think they figure that as long as there is something installed which passes for a speaker than all is good.

I replaced all of mine with 'real' 4 ohm speakers....night and day difference in sound quality.
Not sure on OEM amplified, but on base 4 ohm dash is way too bright and completely saturates the mids in the doors, based on how they are ran parallel with door - unless you put physical inline resistors to lower the wattage.

Not sure if its the same on OEM amplified -... but just found out the hard way after PAC updated their details on these after I already purchased that exact harness kit from ebay... that our Jeep Cherokee's don't play nicely with it. I ended up just running speedwire and tapping into high level inputs. I gotta look into Alfaobd now and see how much help that might be.
 

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...Not sure on OEM amplified, but on base 4 ohm dash is way too bright and completely saturates the mids in the doors, based on how they are ran parallel with door - unless you put physical inline resistors to lower the wattage...
(y)

...Not sure if its the same on OEM amplified -... but just found out the hard way after PAC updated their details on these after I already purchased that exact harness kit from ebay... that our Jeep Cherokee's don't play nicely with it. I ended up just running speedwire and tapping into high level inputs. I gotta look into Alfaobd now and see how much help that might be.
Did you try it with a SGM Bypass installed?
 

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Not sure on OEM amplified, but on base 4 ohm dash is way too bright and completely saturates the mids in the doors, based on how they are ran parallel with door - unless you put physical inline resistors to lower the wattage.
That's why I specified that I'm only commenting on the 6 speaker, no separate amp version.

I tried several different dash speakers. The JBLs I tried at 2.3 ohms did what you describe...they totally dominated the sound stage by being too loud and too bright. Then I tried 3 four ohm speakers of different brands....all sounded different with the Pioneers giving me the best overall sound.

The dash speakers blend in very well with the door speakers and I have a totally flat equalizer setting, which is were it should be. The only reason you see equalizers in stock car audio systems is so you have the option to attempt, however futile it may be, of making the bad stock speakers sound good.
 

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...
Not sure if its the same on OEM amplified -... but just found out the hard way after PAC updated their details on these after I already purchased that exact harness kit from ebay... that our Jeep Cherokee's don't play nicely with it. I ended up just running speedwire and tapping into high level inputs. I gotta look into Alfaobd now and see how much help that might be.
As an fwiw, I emailed PAC, they confirmed that they have never tried using a SGM Bypass on the 2019+ Cherokees, this is actually good, in that it bolsters my point that the SGM is what is interfering with the headunit relearn process.
214032
 
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