2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 2016 Cherokee Limited V6 had the stop/start light come on. I replace the battery in the fob. That seems to have fixed that problem however I noticed the car started to shutter when I would start to accelerate . I pulled up the battery voltage screen and noticed the numbers were black vs. white. Anyone seen his before?

210693
0A83CF5B-9C97-4AFE-AF3E-991979A161ED.jpeg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,755 Posts
My 2016 Cherokee Limited V6 had the stop/start light come on. I replace the battery in the fob. That seems to have fixed that problem however I noticed the car started to shutter when I would start to accelerate . I pulled up the battery voltage screen and noticed the numbers were black vs. white. Anyone seen his before?
Hey John, welcome to the forum ! :)

We're going to need more information there. When you say you had the Stop//Start light come on, did you check for a message in the center display ? You have to scroll through the menus and you'll see a menu specific to Stop/Start. If there is an issue there should be a message about it.

Don't think I've ever heard of fixing a Stop/Start warning light with a new fob battery.

As far as voltage in the center display goes : that is only an indication of alternator output, not battery voltage per se. To get battery voltage, the engine can't be running and a measurement should be taken with a multimeter, at the battery directly, with everything turned off (= no drain at all). Battery voltage should also only be checked after the Jeep has rested for a few hours minimum, but from experience via this forum I can assure you that resting battery voltage readings, for these Cherokees, is rarely a significant indicator of anything, meaning they can't be trusted to diagnose much of anything, except if the number is really low, indicating a dead battery (which you would already know about because the Jeep wouldn't start...).

Do you have the original battery in the Limited (the one under the hood) ?

Edit for typos.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hey John, welcome to the forum ! :)

We're going to need more information there. When you say you had the Stop//Start light come on, did you check for a message in the center display ? You have to scroll through the menus and you'll see a menu specific to Stop/Start. If there is an issue there should be a message about it.

Don't think I've ever heard of fixing a Stop/Start warning light with a new fob battery.

As far as voltage in the center display goes : that is only an indication of alternator output, not battery voltage per se. To get battery voltage, the engine can't be running and a measurement should be taken with a multimeter, at the battery directly, with everything turned off (= no drain at all). Battery voltage should also only be checked after the Jeep has rested for a few hours minimum, but from experience via this forum I can assure you that resting battery voltage readings, for these Cherokees, is rarely a significant indicator of anything, meaning they can't be trusted to diagnose much of anything, except if the number is really low, indicating a dead battery (which you would already know about because the Jeep wouldn't start...).

Do you have the original battery in the Limited (the one under the hood) ?

Edit for typos.
Thanks for responding. It's a replacement battery that is not AGM and I have Start/Stop. I went to a parts store to do a battery and alternator test. Both came back fine. I was told to purchase an AGM battery. Here is what the message center tells me. Battery is from late 2018 correct size for a non Start/Stop Cherokee. The remote start works fine.
210695
99A57515-7CF0-4DF1-8953-CA42DC4BAA4C.jpeg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,755 Posts
Thanks for responding. It's a replacement battery that is not AGM and I have Start/Stop. I went to a parts store to do a battery and alternator test. Both came back fine. I was told to purchase an AGM battery. Here is what the message center tells me. Battery is from late 2018 correct size for a non Start/Stop Cherokee. The remote start works fine.
Thanks. Ok, that points to a battery issue, for sure. ESS (Stop/Start) equipped Cherokees do require an AGM battery, for a few reasons, even if you constantly disable ESS (don't use it). One reason is that the charging algorythm appears to allow different charging schemes when ESS is present, meaning more high current charging bursts because of ESS power draining. AGM batterires are designed to handle high current charging, wet batteries... not so much. So the therory here is that a regular (wet) battery in an ESS euipped vehicle will suffer early damage from repetitive high Amp charging. This is why you need an AGM battery. Unfortunately, we've seen quite a few aftermarket vendors showing wet battery compatibility for ESS Cherokees in their fitment charts, so many are in a situation similar to yours.

Oh and being told your battery passed a load test isn't a garantee it is still healthy enough to quiet the ESS battery monitor. In your case though, the monitoring is thrown by the fact the computer expects AGM battery behavior which your current battery can't provide. All that being said, yes do get an AGM (group 94R / H7).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I got the battery changed out to and AGM for my car. I got the check engine light to finally come on. It turns out coil #4 from the scantool code. Any suggestions on how to know where #4 coil plug is? Schematic ?

Last car was 2009. I would change the coil, wires, plugs. I see things have changed.

Thanks again for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,755 Posts
I got the battery changed out to and AGM for my car. I got the check engine light to finally come on. It turns out coil #4 from the scantool code. Any suggestions on how to know where #4 coil plug is? Schematic ?

Last car was 2009. I would change the coil, wires, plugs. I see things have changed.

Thanks again for the help.
Hi,

Ok, battery needed to be replaced anyway, so that's done.

Did you get a misfire code on cylinder #4 ? If so, then yeah plug or coil pack is the likely culprit.

Pentastar engine layout goes like this when mounted transversely : back side bank (near firewall) are cylinders #1, #3 and #5, from passenger side to driver side, and front bank are #2, #4 and #6. So #4 is the middle one, bumper side of engine compartment :
(3.6 and 3.2 are virtually identical)

Getting to the coil packs and plugs requires a bit of work... but very doable. So I hear, I haven't done mine yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hi,

Ok, battery needed to be replaced anyway, so that's done.

Did you get a misfire code on cylinder #4 ? If so, then yeah plug or coil pack is the likely culprit.

Pentastar engine layout goes like this when mounted transversely : back side bank (near firewall) are cylinders #1, #3 and #5, from passenger side to driver side, and front bank are #2, #4 and #6. So #4 is the middle one, bumper side of engine compartment :
(3.6 and 3.2 are virtually identical)

Getting to the coil packs and plugs requires a bit of work... but very doable. So I hear, I haven't done mine yet.
My battery was 2 years old. AutoZone let me upgrade it for $45. It was a simple decision. The coronavirus shops do not want to lend out the scan tool or come out to the car to read the codes. I did get lucky and found a store. Next I get to learn how to replace an ignition coil on cylinder number four .

Thanks for your help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,755 Posts
My battery was 2 years old. AutoZone let me upgrade it for $45. It was a simple decision. The coronavirus shops do not want to lend out the scan tool or come out to the car to read the codes. I did get lucky and found a store. Next I get to learn how to replace an ignition coil on cylinder number four .

Thanks for your help.
Autozone did it right.

Ok, here's a good starting point for that coil , and of course the front bank is the hardest to get to :

Good luck ;)
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top