I wonder if I got the CDN owners manual, and I know the "Owners Guide" is a USA document because it references a number of things the CDN versions don't have, such as the "APPS" button and Uconnect App for mobile devices. You can't get those in Canada, at least not now.
Maybe that's the difference. No matter anyway really because I ordered the V6 which specs 5w20 in both booklets. It's just something I noticed.
A 0W-20 and a 5W-20 are the same VISCOSITY when the oil is at the operating temperature. A 20 GRADE oil is measured at 100c so both the )W-20 and the 5W-20 are measured at t.hat temperature. The 0W and the 5W are measured at different temperatures. The 0W is measured at -40c and the 5W is measured at -35c. It is true that the 0W-20 would be a better choice if operating in very cold temperatures, but it would also give better lubrication on start-up, as it would flow better. A high quality synthetic would even be better for start-up, as well as lubrication properties.:smile:
So I just had my first oil change at around 9300 miles. I didn't notice until the next day that the shop used 0W20 (instead of the recommended 5W20).
It's Mobil1 and I know full well that this won't make a difference, but since it's new, I thought I'd check with FCA anyway.
Live chatted with someone (probably not a technician) who said to get it swapped for the right weight to avoid having any warranty issues down the line. Stupid, I know, but it's the warranty I'm concerned about - not the engine's ability to run Mobil1 0W20 all day long.
The shop is now giving me grief and they don't carry Mobil1 5W20 anyway (nor do they want to give me a refund, but that I can deal with easily enough).
Any thoughts on 0W20 vs. 5W20 pertaining to adequacy or warranty implications?
My only opinion on this is as follows:
Do not vary from the Owners manual on recommended oil.
These engines have such tight exacting tolerances higher viscosity (thickness) of an oil will not flow properly.
Too low of a viscosity (thickness) will not lubricate properly. Both cases are bad for the long term health of the engine.
Most of the wear on an engine occurs on cold start ups until the oil begins to flow.
Obviously with a 5W, any remaining oil on the cylinder walls will be 5W when the engine cools off.
That is where the viscosity is critical, especially during cold weather. Not too heavy to impede the start up but enough to protect the engine during those early couple seconds of start up.
The Engineers come up with what best serves the particular engine. I would rather not tinker with that.
Basically oil these days are for most vehicles all season. In the old days I'd have to change winter/summer. But again using a 10-30,10-40, or a 20-50 was the norm.
That is the problem with some oil change places. They will make do with what they have. There is also an approved list of oil for the Cherokee the last I heard.
The oil filter is also specific even though one from a particular Grand Cherokee year will fit. The only problem is that it will produce low oil pressure..........
That is one of the reasons I take it to the dealer for oil changes 2x a year. Costs a bit more, they have the correct oil and filters, but they also run codes for me and check if the tires need to be rotated.
Great. So I can even trust that they used the right filter.
Ironically, the only reason I went to this place (that I've used for many vehicles, for many years) is that the dealer (where I have free oil changes) has pissed me off every time I've tried to get service. Guess I'll just try a different dealer this morning.
What brand of oil do you guys recommend? I've always switched to full synthetic on first oil changes and I've always used Mobil One. Saw a commercial the other day for Royal Purple and started wondering if with this new vehicle maybe it's time for a change.
I did RP on my first oil change and it cost about $50 for 6qts. My second change RP was up closer to $60, even at Walmart, so I did Pennzoil Platinum for about $30. I've looked up many NOA/UOAs and don't see anything that justifies RP for that kind of cost.
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Maybe that's my oil leak and not the oil cooler assembly. Already bought a new one anyways so I'll replace it too.
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