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Just thought I would share my recent audio upgrade to my newly purchased 2019 Trailhawk Elite. The vehicle has pretty much every option, but for some reason the original owner opted out of the premium sound system. The factory setup was pretty terrible so after combing this forum for info I decided to change out all the speakers and add a little 6" Bazooka tube that i had in my previous vehicle. All speakers and adapters came from Amazon.
For front speakers I went with the kicker 3.5" Kicker CSC354, CS Series 3.5" 2 Way Coaxial Car Speakers (46CSC354) Amazon.com
These adapters for dash speakers: RED WOLF Front Dash Tweeters Speaker Wiring Harness Adapter Connector Plug Replacement for Dodge Ram Jeep Chrysler 2005-2022 Aftermarket Dash Tweeters Audio Cable Plug 2PC Amazon.com
Since the factory front speakers were 8 ohm and the new ones are 4 ohm, I decided to try out 2 ohm speakers in the front doors instead of the factory 4 ohm to better balance out the sound. Wasn't quite sure if the radio had a minimum resistance load and would cut signal, but this was not the case and it wound up working great. Put 4ohm 4 way speakers in the rear doors.
Front door speakers: PowerBass OE-692T - 6x9 Shallow Mount Coaxial Speakers 2-Ohm - Pair https://a.co/d/1sl7a3Q
Rear door speakers: PIONEER TS-A6967S A-Series 6x9 Shallow 4-Way 450 Watts Max Power Black Car Audio Speakers (Pair) Amazon.com
All Door speaker adapters: 4 Pack 72-6514 Speaker Wire Harness Adapter Plug Compatible with Jeep Wrangler Chrysler Town & Country Speaker Harness Adapter Dodge Dakota Front Rear Door Speaker Wiring Harness Adapter (4) Amazon.com
The rear door speakers are 4 way and add great treble and mids to the back of the vehicle since the bazooka tube is behind the rear seat.
The subwoofer is a little 100 watt bazooka tube that i have had for like 15 years. I can't believe it's still going and sounding great. Pretty sure this is the same one: Bazooka BTA6100 BT Series 6-Inch 100-Watt Amplified Tube Subwoofer https://a.co/d/14wTeF6
Since the sub is only 100 watts, which is really more like 60w rms, I was able to wire the power into the 12v outlet in the hatch with a simple outlet adapter: YONHAN Male Cigarette Lighter Plug 2 Pack 12V Fused Replacement Cigarette Lighter Male Plug Adapter with Leads & LED Light & Extension Cable, 16AWG Extension Cable with 15A Fuse https://a.co/d/7MnznTu
Sine the outlet is turned off with the vehicle I could combine the positive and remote wires into the red positive adapter wire and the negative wire into the black. So easy and will not pull too much power at all, no chance of coming close to blowing a fuse. Since the sub has high level inputs, I spliced the rear door speaker wires behind the driver and passenger seatbelt cover trim pieces on each side. Very easy and quick. The wiring diagram is available on a few other threads. No wires had to be run beyond the front seats. The included subwoofer straps work great with the child seat anchors on the back of the rear seat.
Finally, since I lowered the ohms in the front speakers and front doors, I adjusted the balance two or three notches toward the rear to even it out a little and it sounds amazing.
All 6 new speakers came to about $160 total and the sub I already had so super cheap upgrade for me. I was surprised to see the sub at $195 on Amazon, I think I paid $99 for it back in the day.
The sound is amazing. It's not gonna rattle your eyeballs, but is a great sounding system with incredible range. The 2 ohm 2 way 6x9 speakers in the front doors sound awesome and add great mids and upper-lows to your midsection while the 3.5's bounce treble off the windsheild at you. The rear 6x9 are 4 way so great range and the sub has a built in crossover so bass sounds super clean and can get those lowwwww range sounds that the 6x9's miss.
The whole job took me about 3-4 hours. I didn't have to pull the door panels all the way off, just the bottoms. Make sure you have a plastic trim removal set to not scratch door panels and such.
![Vehicle Car Car seat cover Motor vehicle Vehicle door]()
For front speakers I went with the kicker 3.5" Kicker CSC354, CS Series 3.5" 2 Way Coaxial Car Speakers (46CSC354) Amazon.com
These adapters for dash speakers: RED WOLF Front Dash Tweeters Speaker Wiring Harness Adapter Connector Plug Replacement for Dodge Ram Jeep Chrysler 2005-2022 Aftermarket Dash Tweeters Audio Cable Plug 2PC Amazon.com
Since the factory front speakers were 8 ohm and the new ones are 4 ohm, I decided to try out 2 ohm speakers in the front doors instead of the factory 4 ohm to better balance out the sound. Wasn't quite sure if the radio had a minimum resistance load and would cut signal, but this was not the case and it wound up working great. Put 4ohm 4 way speakers in the rear doors.
Front door speakers: PowerBass OE-692T - 6x9 Shallow Mount Coaxial Speakers 2-Ohm - Pair https://a.co/d/1sl7a3Q
Rear door speakers: PIONEER TS-A6967S A-Series 6x9 Shallow 4-Way 450 Watts Max Power Black Car Audio Speakers (Pair) Amazon.com
All Door speaker adapters: 4 Pack 72-6514 Speaker Wire Harness Adapter Plug Compatible with Jeep Wrangler Chrysler Town & Country Speaker Harness Adapter Dodge Dakota Front Rear Door Speaker Wiring Harness Adapter (4) Amazon.com
The rear door speakers are 4 way and add great treble and mids to the back of the vehicle since the bazooka tube is behind the rear seat.
The subwoofer is a little 100 watt bazooka tube that i have had for like 15 years. I can't believe it's still going and sounding great. Pretty sure this is the same one: Bazooka BTA6100 BT Series 6-Inch 100-Watt Amplified Tube Subwoofer https://a.co/d/14wTeF6
Since the sub is only 100 watts, which is really more like 60w rms, I was able to wire the power into the 12v outlet in the hatch with a simple outlet adapter: YONHAN Male Cigarette Lighter Plug 2 Pack 12V Fused Replacement Cigarette Lighter Male Plug Adapter with Leads & LED Light & Extension Cable, 16AWG Extension Cable with 15A Fuse https://a.co/d/7MnznTu
Sine the outlet is turned off with the vehicle I could combine the positive and remote wires into the red positive adapter wire and the negative wire into the black. So easy and will not pull too much power at all, no chance of coming close to blowing a fuse. Since the sub has high level inputs, I spliced the rear door speaker wires behind the driver and passenger seatbelt cover trim pieces on each side. Very easy and quick. The wiring diagram is available on a few other threads. No wires had to be run beyond the front seats. The included subwoofer straps work great with the child seat anchors on the back of the rear seat.
Finally, since I lowered the ohms in the front speakers and front doors, I adjusted the balance two or three notches toward the rear to even it out a little and it sounds amazing.
All 6 new speakers came to about $160 total and the sub I already had so super cheap upgrade for me. I was surprised to see the sub at $195 on Amazon, I think I paid $99 for it back in the day.
The sound is amazing. It's not gonna rattle your eyeballs, but is a great sounding system with incredible range. The 2 ohm 2 way 6x9 speakers in the front doors sound awesome and add great mids and upper-lows to your midsection while the 3.5's bounce treble off the windsheild at you. The rear 6x9 are 4 way so great range and the sub has a built in crossover so bass sounds super clean and can get those lowwwww range sounds that the 6x9's miss.
The whole job took me about 3-4 hours. I didn't have to pull the door panels all the way off, just the bottoms. Make sure you have a plastic trim removal set to not scratch door panels and such.
