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Installed these in the rear pillars today. Took about 20 mins. It's much brighter back there now...:grin:
 

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Installed these in the rear pillars today. Took about 20 mins. It's much brighter back there now...:grin:
LeoKnightas, do you have the Alpine premium system. From your photo the speaker looks like 3.5", I heard that the rear pillars are 2 1/4"....can you confirm.
 

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LeoKnightas, do you have the Alpine premium system. From your photo the speaker looks like 3.5", I heard that the rear pillars are 2 1/4"....can you confirm.
Yes I have the Alpine upgrade, and I can confirm there are 3.5"s back there...
 

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Hello all,

New member here as I just received a 2014 Trailhawk. It's actually at the dealer getting a new transmission. The original lasted 22 miles. Long story there...

My TH has the 6 speaker base system and I want to upgrade the speakers and add a powered sub (perhaps an under the seat sub). I'm looking to make it easy on myself.

I have three questions concerning upgrading the factory speaker system.

1.) Has anybody found a harness location/connector yet for speaker leads?
2.) Has anybody found the location of the stock amp (if there is one) to swap out a newer, higher power unit?
3.) Has anybody found above average or better speakers other the Kicker speakers Mopar suggests that are an easy swap?

Thank you in advance.
To be 100% honest I purchased the Mopar kicker setup. I installed them yesterday and I was incredibly blown away by the performance. Since I had the door panels off, I dynomatted all four doors top to bottom. This not only reduced all vibrations and rattles but cleaned up the sound. On 20-25 listening to EDM it sounds like I have a sub in the car. Still have to wire up the hidden sub also.
 

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To be 100% honest I purchased the Mopar kicker setup. I installed them yesterday and I was incredibly blown away by the performance. Since I had the door panels off, I dynomatted all four doors top to bottom. This not only reduced all vibrations and rattles but cleaned up the sound. On 20-25 listening to EDM it sounds like I have a sub in the car. Still have to wire up the hidden sub also.
I have an annoying rattle in the passenger side even at 1/3rd volume, the driver's side rattles at about 2/3rds.
Did you deaden just the metal that speaker mounts to or the outer skin as well.
Any tips for sealing or deadening that you found.
 

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To be 100% honest I purchased the Mopar kicker setup. I installed them yesterday and I was incredibly blown away by the performance. Since I had the door panels off, I dynomatted all four doors top to bottom. This not only reduced all vibrations and rattles but cleaned up the sound. On 20-25 listening to EDM it sounds like I have a sub in the car. Still have to wire up the hidden sub also.
I have an annoying rattle in the passenger side even at 1/3rd volume, the driver's side rattles at about 2/3rds.
Did you deaden just the metal that speaker mounts to or the outer skin as well.
Any tips for sealing or deadening that you found.

I used the outline of the panels on the door itself. It was 50 mil product and very heavy. The weight of the door is more solid too. Makes a really deep thud when closing it now. Just take your time and do not cover any holes. I used roughly 5-6 square feet in the back and 8-10 in the fronts. Don't skimp and cut any corners, when you have the panels off you only want to do this once.
 

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I used the outline of the panels on the door itself. It was 50 mil product and very heavy. The weight of the door is more solid too. Makes a really deep thud when closing it now. Just take your time and do not cover any holes. I used roughly 5-6 square feet in the back and 8-10 in the fronts. Don't skimp and cut any corners, when you have the panels off you only want to do this once.
Did you use the Dynamat brand.
Curious why you suggest not covering holes, I just assumed you would want to seal the door as best as possible? For possible future service?
 

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I used the outline of the panels on the door itself. It was 50 mil product and very heavy. The weight of the door is more solid too. Makes a really deep thud when closing it now. Just take your time and do not cover any holes. I used roughly 5-6 square feet in the back and 8-10 in the fronts. Don't skimp and cut any corners, when you have the panels off you only want to do this once.
Did you use the Dynamat brand.
Curious why you suggest not covering holes, I just assumed you would want to seal the door as best as possible? For possible future service?
By holes I mean where the clips of the door panel lock in
 

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I used the outline of the panels on the door itself. It was 50 mil product and very heavy. The weight of the door is more solid too. Makes a really deep thud when closing it now. Just take your time and do not cover any holes. I used roughly 5-6 square feet in the back and 8-10 in the fronts. Don't skimp and cut any corners, when you have the panels off you only want to do this once.
Did you use the Dynamat brand.
Curious why you suggest not covering holes, I just assumed you would want to seal the door as best as possible? For possible future service?
I used 3rd party 50 mil butyl rubber.
 

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I used 3M damping mats. Dynamat seems over-hyped and overpriced for the same thing, it's like wasting $$ on Monster cable. I've also used the
that goes for very cheap, it goes on well with heat but won't mold or stick well without it.
 

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I had a bad experience with stereo and dynamat install on my truck. Lots of stuff came back together with broken tabs or otherwise looser than it should have been.

Now, to be fair, my installer turned out to be a hack in a nice building. But some of it came down to the vehicle itself not dealing with being disassembled/reassembled very well.

Any feedback on how fragile the Cherokee is in this regard?

If it's very straightforward I'd be inclined to mat the doors, as the factory 9-speaker upgrade is rumored to be a little buzz prone. But I also went full on factory to keep 3rd party install to a minimum. I notice a couple of other people mentioned rattles after dealers went into the doors.
 

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I had a bad experience with stereo and dynamat install on my truck. Lots of stuff came back together with broken tabs or otherwise looser than it should have been.

Now, to be fair, my installer turned out to be a hack in a nice building. But some of it came down to the vehicle itself not dealing with being disassembled/reassembled very well.

Any feedback on how fragile the Cherokee is in this regard?

If it's very straightforward I'd be inclined to mat the doors, as the factory 9-speaker upgrade is rumored to be a little buzz prone. But I also went full on factory to keep 3rd party install to a minimum. I notice a couple of other people mentioned rattles after dealers went into the doors.
The door panels go on and off very smoothly. You would have to be very careless to break anything. It's also worth doing it yourself, good common sense will be a better product than half of the "professional" audio install places out there
 

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I had a bad experience with stereo and dynamat install on my truck. Lots of stuff came back together with broken tabs or otherwise looser than it should have been.

Now, to be fair, my installer turned out to be a hack in a nice building. But some of it came down to the vehicle itself not dealing with being disassembled/reassembled very well.

Any feedback on how fragile the Cherokee is in this regard?

If it's very straightforward I'd be inclined to mat the doors, as the factory 9-speaker upgrade is rumored to be a little buzz prone. But I also went full on factory to keep 3rd party install to a minimum. I notice a couple of other people mentioned rattles after dealers went into the doors.
Pull slightly on the bottom front of each door panel. You will hear a slight click. These are the little clips than hold the panel to the door. Follow the outline of the panel from front to back then up then to the front again. It goes back on just as easily. I have pulled other door panels off and these seemed to be the most well designed.
 

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Thanks! I'm sure I'd still throw it at an installer (different one this time, though) but it's good to know the install itself should be trivial and not error-prone.
 

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Does Anyone know where I can buy or a part number for the the 3.5 Speaker Wire Adaptor? I found in here the 6x9 adaptors but did not see the 3.5 adaptors...
 

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ok no one answered and I did not find it in the forum... but luckily I chatted with someone at Crutchfield and they gave me some info...

Front Dash Speakers 3.5 require Metra 71-039C Speaker Wiring Adapters.

And as We already know thanks to the forum the 6x9 Door Speakers use Metra 71-050 Speaker Wiring Adapters.

Now I also asked if there was any easy Wire harness to add amp and subwoofer like i see on their website for other vehicles they said no... "That Sucks"

I also asked what 6x9 speakers they recommended they said this...

"Looking at your vehicle, I show that you have just 2.171" of depth and 0.53" of height available, and that none of those speakers will be able to fit into your vehicle."

I have read somewhere in here of 6x9 success... and I know that the ones I got Pioneers TS-A6995R 6x9 will require some modification but I'm willing to try it... also I have seen in the forum saying that we have a bit more clearance than what he said...

In any case I will be doing some upgrades soon I will post pics when i'm done...
 
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