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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve been getting this error pretty regularly. It always happens when I drive on a rough surface. I drive a 2014 Cherokee Trailhawk, it’s supposed to be driven on rough bumpy surfaces. When it happens I get a tone and the dash 4 wheel drive not available. It usually will go away after a few minutes but if it comes on again I have to stop shut down and restart. Now when I say rough surfaces I’m talking on the freeway and changing lanes crossing the bumps separating lanes, or in a parking lot with speed bumps.
I think that there’s a bad communication wire connector that may be loose, I just don’t know where to look.
 

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You've got a loose connection somewhere. First, try the negative and positive battery terminals - remove and secure them. BTW: what is the battery voltage with the engine shut down and also at low idle?

Next, you could lift the head unit out and check those connections (easy to do, check YouTube).

Have you had any work done on the vehicle prior to this anomaly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Battery is new, 12.7v engine off. I’ve done nothing to the vehicle, bone stock, only had it off road in 4wd on one occasion. I bought the jeep used @ 59k miles, it did the same thing back then when I’d only had it a month, the dealer said they replaced a “module” in the rear I think. Since then I’ve driven it 31k miles in those 5 years. The car drives OK, when the code clears I have no problems putting it in 4 wheel low or high, the locker works fine too.
I agree with you that there’s a loose connection, I also found that it happens more frequently when the tire pressure is either too high or too low. I have a Autel scanner that gives me quite a bit of information, maybe I should get a schematic of the vehicle wiring and start looking at connectors.
 

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I’ve been getting this error pretty regularly. It always happens when I drive on a rough surface. I drive a 2014 Cherokee Trailhawk, it’s supposed to be driven on rough bumpy surfaces. When it happens I get a tone and the dash 4 wheel drive not available. It usually will go away after a few minutes but if it comes on again I have to stop shut down and restart. Now when I say rough surfaces I’m talking on the freeway and changing lanes crossing the bumps separating lanes, or in a parking lot with speed bumps.
I think that there’s a bad communication wire connector that may be loose, I just don’t know where to look.
Hello,

What is the number associated with the code you're getting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Soon as the fault is cleared everything works. Yesterday I shifted into 4 wheel low and crawled around the property, engaged the locker did it again, everything works as it should. Everything points to it’s a communication loss error, I’m also having problems the keyless entry, one fob cannot unlock the vehicle yet it still starts it fine, the other fobik will sometimes unlock/lock but it takes quite a few button presses, fobik batteries been changed, key pads replaced, they are transmitting the vehicle just not responding as it should.
I’ll never buy another jeep unless it’s a 70’s vintage CJ with a GM LS swap…
 

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I didn't look it up - what fault code is that?

Since you having more than a single issue - in fact it seems like several, almost unrelated - the chances that you have one primary problem seems pretty high. I'd look for either a loose connection or a corroded connection everywhere mainly around the engine compartment fuse box. You could use an ohmmeter and look at every visible connection to chassis ground, for example.

Don't give up on the vehicle, there's likely a fix for what ails it. Good luck.
 

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Is your Autel scanner reading FCA codes correctly? I am asking because my old scanner doesn't read codes on the Cherokee, works fine on my Oldsmobile though.
Maybe get a free scan someplace? Just wondering.
I vote for checking the battery connections one more time. Make sure they won't twist. Well, since you had the same problem pre new battery that probably means it isn't it.
I have a 2014 V6 TH and haven't had that problem yet.
 

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According to the repair information I have, common causes for that code include a circuit/wiring issue, a problem with the PTU actuator, or an issue with the DTCM. Since the problem only happens when going over bumps, I agree that a circuit issue is the most likely cause. If you want to troubleshoot the problem yourself, I suggest getting a single-vehicle subscription to an online repair database (e.g., ALLDATA or Mitchell 1 DIY), which will have the wiring diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I brought it to my local Chrysler Jeep dealer, they saw the code as well, had it for 3 days and could find no legitimate cause. In the end they reflashed the DTCM and said it’s all good. I’m not buying their koolaid, last year I had the car in there to change the front wheel bearings, they took 5 days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is your Autel scanner reading FCA codes correctly? I am asking because my old scanner doesn't read codes on the Cherokee, works fine on my Oldsmobile though.
Maybe get a free scan someplace? Just wondering.
I vote for checking the battery connections one more time. Make sure they won't twist. Well, since you had the same problem pre new battery that probably means it isn't it.
I have a 2014 V6 TH and haven't had that problem yet.
I have a new Autel MK808BT, it reads everything correctly, I previously had a different scanner made by innova, I had the same problem as you as it could only read basic obd2 codes but nothing Jeep specific and every time I scanned it it always triggered the check engine light. The Autel covers just about everything, live data is a real help as you can test actuation of devices and switches, it’s a little steep at 450 bucks with an annual subscription for updates.
 

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I brought it to my local Chrysler Jeep dealer, they saw the code as well, had it for 3 days and could find no legitimate cause. In the end they reflashed the DTCM and said it’s all good. I’m not buying their koolaid, last year I had the car in there to change the front wheel bearings, they took 5 days.
Sounds like you need to find a different dealer...😎
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As an update, I still have not found a culprit but here is what I did do: the tires were about 4 years old but still had pretty good tread on them but they had 30k miles on them.
I believed that the rear bearings were bad, the rear wheels were really loud when driving. When I had the local jeep Chrysler look at the fault I was getting I also had them rotate the tires, when I got it back the howling had shifted from the rear to the front now. So knowing I had a suspected tire problem I bought a new set of Goodyear wrangler tires. The car is now quiet as a new car, no more howling and surprisingly I’ve driven it over a hundred miles and not one single malfunction. I also had them replace all pressure sensors in the wheels.
I’m suspecting that there may have been a problem in the wireless module with it getting data from speed sensors and pressure sensor data, I don’t understand as to why but I do know every time I got a low pressure warning maybe every 6 months that when I pressed up all the tires to 35 psi I would get more service 4 wheel drive lamps, if I didn’t press up a low tire I’d still get them but not as many but at 33 psi almost no faults. So that’s where I’m at but I think a problem with TPS system may have been what was triggering the faults.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Fault came back again today, Twice.
Rectangle Font Software Screenshot Technology


Rectangle Font Software Screenshot Technology

Attached is freeze frame data showing wheel speed sensors, I don’t understandthe number for speed but it seems the left rear is nowhere near the other three. This time it gave the DTCM fault and freeze frame of that reads it was in Snow mode? It also was showing the left rear speed sensor disparity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Final update, the problem is fixed (fingers crossed and knocking on wood), the problem was actually the PTU lost communication with the DTCM. I ended up buying a replacement DTCM, once I swapped it out that brought out a host of codes because the replacement requires a Proxi alignment to be performed, I believed my Autel scanner could do that, there is a procedure but it just fails at performing it. I took it to the dealer, the same one that charged me 200 bucks and said they couldn’t find a problem, they did the alignment and charged me another 200 bucks. The good news is the car is running like a top, the power transmission from engine to the ground is more responsive and I’m happy with it, driven about 100 miles with no malfunction.
when I found the DTCM module I found that previously this must have been occurring as there was a jumper wire on I believe the signal wire. I think the module has been faulty before I bought the car in 2018.
 

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Final update, the problem is fixed (fingers crossed and knocking on wood), the problem was actually the PTU lost communication with the DTCM. I ended up buying a replacement DTCM, once I swapped it out that brought out a host of codes because the replacement requires a Proxi alignment to be performed, I believed my Autel scanner could do that, there is a procedure but it just fails at performing it. I took it to the dealer, the same one that charged me 200 bucks and said they couldn’t find a problem, they did the alignment and charged me another 200 bucks. The good news is the car is running like a top, the power transmission from engine to the ground is more responsive and I’m happy with it, driven about 100 miles with no malfunction.
when I found the DTCM module I found that previously this must have been occurring as there was a jumper wire on I believe the signal wire. I think the module has been faulty before I bought the car in 2018.

Is this module located in the trunk on the drivers side?
 

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Final update, the problem is fixed (fingers crossed and knocking on wood), the problem was actually the PTU lost communication with the DTCM. I ended up buying a replacement DTCM, once I swapped it out that brought out a host of codes because the replacement requires a Proxi alignment to be performed, I believed my Autel scanner could do that, there is a procedure but it just fails at performing it. I took it to the dealer, the same one that charged me 200 bucks and said they couldn’t find a problem, they did the alignment and charged me another 200 bucks. The good news is the car is running like a top, the power transmission from engine to the ground is more responsive and I’m happy with it, driven about 100 miles with no malfunction.
when I found the DTCM module I found that previously this must have been occurring as there was a jumper wire on I believe the signal wire. I think the module has been faulty before I bought the car in 2018.
curious
 
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