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Discussion Starter #21
I haven't forgotten about you mudman1. We just haven't had any Cherokees come in for service.
Thanks. Tomorrow, assuming the world does not crash and burn, I am going to put the Jeep up on ramps and see if I can't knock out the fluid changes. I will document and post accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Good evening all. Did my third oil change today and threw in a new Mopar filter. I used AMSOIL Signature 5W-20. Then I looked high and low for the PTU drain / fill. I did not want to drop skid plates as I had lots of other projects to tackle. I could not find it so I said screw it. I bought the lifetime warranty, it is on Mopar if they decided service of components is not important.
For the rear diff, I did pull the plugs. It is odd because with the right and left plugs out, oil will run out of the left but not the right. My Mityvac tube will not go down into the right hole, but it did in the left. I was able to suck out a couple of ounces and that is all. So I burned through one of the two quarts I bought by flushing. So once I sucked out what I could from the left hole, I used my hand pump to just flood both holes. Then I let it drip so it was not overfull. The oil did not look too bad and the metal shavings were reasonable. I have 14,400 miles on the clock.
FYI, I am not sure if it was the factory's fault or the dealer's when they did my drive shaft replacement in the spring, but both holes were a little low. Not scary low, but not level with the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks for sharing! Any pics of the dirty diff oil? What did you refill with? And this was with significant 4x4ing with only 15k? Just curious
Did you look at my pictures? The second from the last picture shows the oil I extracted from the rear diff.
 

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Hey guys... this threads a little dated. I've had a few jeeps and done the DIF /Trans myself in the past.
I have a new 2014 Jeep Cherokee but don't do any off road and minimal towing. I'm not sure I'm buying this good for LIFE crap either - how often would you recommend PTU/Diff change?
 

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The skid plate has to come off, correct? My unit has a slow leak and I would rather not have it grenade before the dealer can schedule another appointment to replace the PTU.

Yep, it was leaking from the day I drove it off the lot :-(
 

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The skid plate has to come off, correct? My unit has a slow leak and I would rather not have it grenade before the dealer can schedule another appointment to replace the PTU.

Yep, it was leaking from the day I drove it off the lot :-(
Did you need any help getting an appointment set? Please let us know, we're happy to help!

Kori
Jeep Social Care Specialist
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The skid plate has to come off, correct? My unit has a slow leak and I would rather not have it grenade before the dealer can schedule another appointment to replace the PTU.

Yep, it was leaking from the day I drove it off the lot :-(
To treat the front, yes they would have to. Not for the rear, there is not one there.
 

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Did you need any help getting an appointment set? Please let us know, we're happy to help!

Kori
Jeep Social Care Specialist
The unit appears to be leaking at the diagonal seam at the bottom of the PTU. The scheduling is dependant on whether the dealer will be allowed to split the case to reseal it or whether the unit is replaced as a complete unit.

I don't want to be in a position where the dealer says one thing and the manufacture says something else and I'm left stranded for a week or more while they order parts after the vehicle has already been disassembled.

2017 White TrailHawk somewhere between Crestline and 29Palms
 

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Bumping this thread because I went to go order some diff fluid for both my PTU and rear diff from Mopar's site, and after I placed the order, I got an email from one of the guys saying they cannot ship diff fluid because they said lubricants are considered hazardous materials, and they don't do hazmat shipping. I just said that was fine, and got the rest of my order a few days later.

But I still found this strange because I've order transmission fluid online before with no issues for my Mini, so why is this any different?

And this also begs the question, where else could I buy diff oil for both the PTU and rear diff locally? Any particular brands that would suffice?
 

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Bumping this thread because I went to go order some diff fluid for both my PTU and rear diff from Mopar's site, and after I placed the order, I got an email from one of the guys saying they cannot ship diff fluid because they said lubricants are considered hazardous materials, and they don't do hazmat shipping. I just said that was fine, and got the rest of my order a few days later.

But I still found this strange because I've order transmission fluid online before with no issues for my Mini, so why is this any different?

And this also begs the question, where else could I buy diff oil for both the PTU and rear diff locally? Any particular brands that would suffice?
Lazy asses it sounds like. Automotive oils are not hazmat. There are certain criteria like flash point and such that must be met to be considered hazmat. I've ordered plenty from different places and it's never been an issue. The boxes are never marked with any special labelling when they arrive.

That said, pretty much any 75w-90 ought to be fine for the PTU. Local parts store should have a few brands of conventional and synthetic. I would not however put anything besides the Mopar 70w-80 in the RDM as there's no way to guarantee compatibility with the clutch material.

Also assuming you haven't done this work already.... good luck getting the old fluid out, especially the PTU.
 

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Lazy asses it sounds like. Automotive oils are not hazmat. There are certain criteria like flash point and such that must be met to be considered hazmat. I've ordered plenty from different places and it's never been an issue. The boxes are never marked with any special labelling when they arrive.

That said, pretty much any 75w-90 ought to be fine for the PTU. Local parts store should have a few brands of conventional and synthetic. I would not however put anything besides the Mopar 70w-80 in the RDM as there's no way to guarantee compatibility with the clutch material.

Also assuming you haven't done this work already.... good luck getting the old fluid out, especially the PTU.
That is a good point!
But the one thing I would recommend is to only use Synthetic fluids. They are much more stable to high temperatures and thus break down. I would guess all fluids used in the Cherokee are synthetic.
The use of anything else could cause severe problems down the road.

I burned out a rear differential on my 2001 Cherokee with tow and off road package. The reason was simple as the dealer that changed the fluid used conventional instead of synthetic. Synthetic at that time was only called for in the Tow differential set up. So most Cherokees used conventional.
From that point on I always stated use Synthetic on the work orders.
 
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Hello I have 2014 Cherokee Sport 4WD I pull off heat shield is no fill or drain plug on that side on the other side "passenger" where the mount/bearing carrier is on the ptu output is a shiny plug but looks blocked by the mount will try to pull it out. I got the fluid up at the dealer for the PTU and the rear diff. Going to use vaccum brake bleeder with small hose on to drain PTU.
 

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Hello I have 2014 Cherokee Sport 4WD I pull off heat shield is no fill or drain plug on that side on the other side "passenger" where the mount/bearing carrier is on the ptu output is a shiny plug but looks blocked by the mount will try to pull it out. I got the fluid up at the dealer for the PTU and the rear diff. Going to use vaccum brake bleeder with small hose on to drain PTU.
AFAIK there is no easy way to get the fluid out, there is no service interval for the diff. See this: https://jeepcherokeeclub.com/33-engine-technical-discussion/189937-differential-fluid-change.html#post2205185


.
 

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Yeah its on the Passenger side have to get a rachet extension on it, than work the hose i attached to the brake bleeder into the bottom of the housing, I am new to Jeep but over on the blue oval side for their "Filled for life PTU's" they have now said its 30k miles and is really good video explaining the process "https://youtu.be/sS9JPaf1MDg" actually is easier on the Cherokee will post pics here afterward. Have a bunch of pics for the vacuum coolant flush on the Cherokee will find that thread and post that as well. Thanks for the quick response.
 

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All very interesting but I have a few issues from my past experiences.

* A Ford vehicle is not a Jeep vehicle. Also there is always a large amount of heat in that area of any vehicle. But I do take an issue with "cooking in heat".
When the vehicle is moving there is plenty of air flow over those parts to move generated heat away to the rear. So those parts are "not cooking" in heat.
That is at least beyond heat design capacities of the parts and the fluid. Thus the importance of using OEM fluid for those changes specified for your specific
vehicle. Changing at 30k is an opinion of the service person doing the video for that particular vehicle.

* The fluid is lifetime as its a very high quality synthetic that can take a lot of abuse (heat) before breaking down. The units like the PTU and transmission are
sealed in order to keep the bad stuff out. Contaminants can be anything from moisture to dust every time that port is opened.
I do agree that there is no such thing as lifetime fluids. But I would consider that at least 10/100 maybe more depending on usage. Heavy towing might be
one example or using that 10/100 example for change. If its everyday driving I may not even worry about changing it till after that 10/100.
But the interesting factor in the owners manual is there is no severe usage maintenance schedule for this Cherokee as there has been in the past on my
other Jeeps. I would guess it has more to do with the fluid and the sealed units. That is the zest for a virtually maintenance free vehicle.

* I am not sure if pumping fluid out of the unit for a change is the best way to go. This method can leave residue including shavings on the bottom of the unit
which is the very stuff you want out when you change it. On my prior Jeeps the trans pan would have to be dropped to get all the fluid out and area
cleaned and serviced. The differential Axle cover would have to be removed to drain it and clean the area. That's the only way to insure a complete job.
I am sure this Cherokee is a bit different but the issue remains that any fluid change has to be a complete change as the days of 30k changes are long gone
for the most part. Fluid is much more expensive (high quality) if using the proper fluid. Also fluid changes can be messy and hard to do the proper way if you
are not familiar with the method. That includes new gaskets ect. Those ports were for filling fluid only or checking. Unless the plug is on the end of the
tapered bottom of the unit, like the oil pan they are not for draining.

* Changing out those lifetime fluids early are really not needed. Its not much different than the 3/4k oil change that just does not seem to give up its ghost.
Not much different than changing out the coolant every couple years that just does not go away. Now its a 10/100 change. Its all about the quality of fluids
these days in a sealed system. I tend to be a bit skeptical yet but I am coming around to oil changes at 5/6k (using synthetic) and pushing that 10/100 for
lifetime fluids. I guess if Max Care Life will cover it as long as I follow the maintenance schedule I'll be fine. But 10/100 is the max for life fluids in my book
especially that I tow moderately.

Just my humble comments on the subject.
 

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Yeah its on the Passenger side have to get a rachet extension on it, than work the hose i attached to the brake bleeder into the bottom of the housing, I am new to Jeep but over on the blue oval side for their "Filled for life PTU's" they have now said its 30k miles and is really good video explaining the process "
" actually is easier on the Cherokee will post pics here afterward. Have a bunch of pics for the vacuum coolant flush on the Cherokee will find that thread and post that as well. Thanks for the quick response.
Hi Jeronimo,
I am planning on do the same thing with my 2015 TH as I am starting to tow my travel trailer Forest River Cherokee Wolf Pup.
Could you post some pictures as you said you were going to, or you may have already in a different location. I will also look into the rear differential also.
Thank you for the great info you posted here!
-Dusty
 

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I have 2014 Active Drive 1 limited with 230,000 km
I Also have a 2014 Active Drive 2 North with 227,000km that just had PTU and RDM failure and replacement. I am positive that changing the fluid before they fail is a better choice.
And
I don't believe it's possible that the oil can last for a lifetime.
How do we do it? Any more help would be great.
 

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Well the PTU failed after 3 days in my 2014. And 50000kms in my 2016 there is zero evidence fluid change would prevent PTU failure. Dealership doesn't recommend changing the fluids and like i said the PTUs are failing not because of fluid issues. My 2014 is now almost 7 years old haven't done anything but change engine oil. Its doing just fine
 
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