CV joint for trailhawk

sanghill

Is the boot ripped and it is slinging grease or is the joint loose or both?
Depending on how bad they are you might be able to keep driving the Jeep.
We drove an old SAAB for years with no boots, no problem, got rid of the SAAB, never replaced the half shafts.
Is your Jeep lifted? Was it lifted? Generally TH half shafts are quite durable unless somebody did some serious off road driving.
Sell the Jeep and hopefully you will have better luck next time.
Tell whoever you bought it from you don't want the Jeep and you want your money back.

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Gary Kline

· #3 · 4 mo ago

Assi said:
Hi
Cherokee trailhawk 2015
I need to replace my CV joint.
The cheapest price I found online is 612$ (see the attached picture).
With delivery and tax I will get to more than 1000$, and I need for both sides..
Does anyone know of a better option?
Maybe trying to renew it?
I will appreciate your advice - since I am new to cherokee (just bought it..).
Thanks,
View attachment 222366

@Assi , did the boot crack and you got sand in it freewheeling in the Negev?!

ps: Welcome from New York to the Cherokee Club!

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Flybynightcru

· #4 · 4 mo ago

Assi said:
Hi
Cherokee trailhawk 2015
I need to replace my CV joint.
The cheapest price I found online is 612$ (see the attached picture).
With delivery and tax I will get to more than 1000$, and I need for both sides..
Does anyone know of a better option?
Maybe trying to renew it?
I will appreciate your advice - since I am new to cherokee (just bought it..).
Thanks,
View attachment 222366

That's about right. Your profile shows you're in Israel, is there not anywhere local who would have the axles in stock, and save you hundreds of dollars for shipping???😎

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Gary Kline

· #5 · 4 mo ago

Assi said:
Hi
Cherokee trailhawk 2015
I need to replace my CV joint.
The cheapest price I found online is 612$ (see the attached picture).
With delivery and tax I will get to more than 1000$, and I need for both sides..
Does anyone know of a better option?
Maybe trying to renew it?
I will appreciate your advice - since I am new to cherokee (just bought it..).
Thanks,
View attachment 222366

As @sanghill mentioned, if it's just recently slinging grease but the race, spider, rollers etc. haven't taken damage, you may be able to just remove, clean, repack with new grease and a new boot. It's much less expensive but more work than a 'remove & replace'.

Another option is use aftermarket (non-Mopar) shafts. Everyone has a different perspective on this. Me personally, I have no issue on using aftermarket parts on non-internal engine/drivetrain parts. So for example, our your Cherokee, if you ever need to replace rocker arms or hydraulic lifters (a common failure part that's internal to the engine), go genuine Mopar. But anything external to the engine/transaxle/PTU/RDM assemblies such as thermostat, hoses and other 'support components' (e.g. alternator, battery, radiator, half-shafts, struts etc.), I don't mind using aftermarket if the difference in cost is very large (which the half-shafts it is). Just my $.02

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Assi

Discussion Starter · #6 · 4 mo ago

Thank you for your welcome and answers. What I understand from your answers is that there is a good chance to save the half shafts, so I will remove them and take them to someone that will renew them and hopefully it will be OK. It won't cost too much if I do the removal (and for the option of buying new ones in here, I asked and it cost 2280$ each...)

BTW, I did offer the car dealer that I bought the Jeep from to take it back, even in a lower price. I made him laugh....

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Gary Kline

· #7 · 4 mo ago

Assi said:
Thank you for your welcome and answers. What I understand from your answers is that there is a good chance to save the half shafts, so I will remove them and take them to someone that will renew them and hopefully it will be OK. It won't cost too much if I do the removal (and for the option of buying new ones in here, I asked and it cost 2280$ each...)

BTW, I did offer the car dealer that I bought the Jeep from to take it back, even in a lower price. I made him laugh....

Good luck.

1. Question, what makes you think they're defective/bad? Do you hear clicking when turning or have other driving issue or are the boots split?

2. Assuming you meant 2280NIS and not $, correct?

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Assi

Discussion Starter · #8 · 4 mo ago

They are clicking when I turn - each one on a different turn. Also it all feels bad - but the shock obsorber there is rouind. And, someone stopped me on the way and said that thd wheel looks shaking.
And 2280$ (it was 7809NIS each in the parts offer).

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Gary Kline

· #9 · 4 mo ago

Assi said:
They are clicking when I turn - each one on a different turn. Also it all feels bad - but the shock obsorber there is rouind. And, someone stopped me on the way and said that thd wheel looks shaking.
And 2280$ (it was 7809NIS each in the parts offer).

Hi @Assi,

re: "and for the option of buying new ones in here, I asked and it cost 2280$ each...) "

$2,280 USD for each half-shaft is outrageous. Replacing both sides and you're talking almost $4600 in parts alone. You could buy a new engine or transaxle for that. I'd go aftermarket at that point. It's not worth paying almost half the value of the car for two parts.

Yeah, once they click, it's hard to save them. Question, have you jacked up the car and tried to move (rock) the tire back and forth? Could you wheel bearings be causing the wheel shaking? Your wheel is connected to the hub/bearing/knuckle assembly so I don't think you should be seeing wobble if it's just the half shaft.

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Assi

Discussion Starter · #10 · 4 mo ago

I went to a garage, he got the parts offer + shock obsorbers, and finally he told me that I shoild go home and think of what i want to do with the car.
This is why I started to work by myself on the Jeep and looking for evey part.
And now that you are saying that, I will cheak the wheel bearings.....
Thanks.

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Gary Kline

· #11 · 4 mo ago

Assi said:
I went to a garage, he got the parts offer + shock obsorbers, and finally he told me that I shoild go home and think of what i want to do with the car.
This is why I started to work by myself on the Jeep and looking for evey part.
And now that you are saying that, I will cheak the wheel bearings.....
Thanks.

Yeah, seems like a nice "markup". If your tire is "bouncing" on the road (e.g. not 'wobbling' side to side but up and down) then yes, that could be the shock is broken. The spring in the strut unit cushions the ride and the shock controls the spring and smooths out its action. If the shock is blown (e.g. you might see oil on the shock tower) then the spring just bounces with nothing to control its motion. The wheel of the car will then bounce up and down when hitting holes etc.

Either way, a new pair of after market struts shouldn't cost more than USD $300-400.

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Assi

Discussion Starter · #12 · 4 mo ago

2

So, I removed my CV Joints. These youtubes helped:

I had to buy 36mm socket and a ball joint separator.
All went well until the last part of removing the CV Joint where in the videos they show how they use a pry bar and the CV is out easily. I tried for many hours and couldn't get leverage. So, I found this tool, and it was out in a second.

Line Font Auto part Eyelash Surgical instrument

I took the CV Joints to renewal, and it was ready in a few hours
The cost was 280$ each (which is not much ifn here, especially if you compare it to the 2280$ that was the Mopar part in here).

Sleeve Grey Sportswear Electric blue Glass

Did not install it yet, but looks good.

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Gary Kline

· #13 · 4 mo ago

3

Assi said:
So, I removed my CV Joints. These youtubes helped:

I had to buy 36mm socket and a ball joint separator.
All went well until the last part of removing the CV Joint where in the videos they show how they use a pry bar and the CV is out easily. I tried for many hours and couldn't get leverage. So, I found this tool, and it was out in a second.

This is great, nice job! I didn't even know you could find local renewal/refurbishment shops.

Yeah, that slide hammer with claw foot must have made popping the shaft out so much easier. Because of the snap ring on the spline shaft, they take some force to get out.

One thing you may want to consider (or not) is, if your TH has a lot of miles, some people change their transmission fluid. The fluid is technically "lifetime" though "lifetime" has never really been defined by Jeep and back in 2014 when they first started to use the ZF9 transmissions in the then-new Cherokee KL's, they probably didn't put a lot of thought into Cherokees with 150k-200k miles on them being on the road in 2023.

Well, the fluid can be drained and changed if desired however the only way to fill it is either through the top side (difficult) or through the left side wheelwell. There's a specific proceudre and it's important to get the correct amount but if you do decide to change it, it might be a good time since you've taken everythiing off and have access to the fill port. Again, awersome job!