[Gary Kline]

I'm guessing part of the plastic from the connector is still in the lower rubber hose. Note the break (yellow outlined) is not clean. Doubt it was manufactured that way.

Unfortuantely, same as on our 3.2 V6 engines, a lot of the hoses (lower radiator hose, upper coolant cross pipe etc. ) have fitted plastic ends/quick connects on them which makes repairing them difficult or impossible.

Note that in the end a coolant hose is just a coolant hose. The best way of course is to replace the entire hose assembly but if you can find a way to securely add a section of rubber hose using clamps and small rubber and rigid extension pieces etc., as long as you can get it closed and tight, it will work.

 

[Gary Kline]

Re: Note that in the end a coolant hose is just a coolant hose. The best way of course is to replace the entire hose assembly but if you can find a way to securely add a section of rubber hose using clamps and small rubber and rigid extension pieces etc., as long as you can get it closed and tight, it will work.

Here's an example of what I was talking about. This is the upper crossover coolant hose on my 3.2 V6. Note there is originally one of those plastic connectors. In lieu of replacing the hose, I used a small section of rubber hose and two clamps because there was enough rigid tube on both ends to support the clamp's compression. 3 years and still going strong.

 

[Gary Kline]

@rumrunner : you are right; the lower horse shoe connector is difficult to reach. Space is tight with a lot of interference to touch the connector

Decide to just order the part and have mechanics shop to install

I just tried to pull off the broken hose but only be successful to take off the top connector, not even with the press-in fitting

Could they make it any tighter in there??!!!! LoL! 😂

Yes, for $20, replace with the original part.

Note, if the dealer can't get you in for a couple weeks...

From the photo it looks like that hose has several inches of slack in it. if so, what you could do in the interim is to cut the rubber hose (which you'll be replacing anyway) right at where the part of the plastic from the connector is broken off in there exposing clean hose. See #1 below.

Then using the slack in the hose, pull it up and connect it to the stub on #2. There looks like there's enough stub left to get a clamp around and you can see from the cross-section of that connector, it's nice and thick so shouldn't collapse if you tighten it well with a worm-gear hose clamp.

It's not ideal of course but heater hoses don't have a lot of pressure going through them. If you do this, also rough-up the surface of that stub end with some sandpaper so the clamp/hose can grip better.

Just a thought if an emerg.

 

[Gary Kline]

LOL! I actually did try your idea @Gary Kline ; I pull the hose#1 to the clear plastic adapter but it is tight and could not snap on.
I may try later to cut off the metal clamp on hose #1 and see whether it would make it easier.

LOL, we make it work! 🤣

Note:

(1) I would DEFINITELY take off the metal clamp, I wouldn't try to force it on. If you can get it on with the clamp still in place then it means the whole assembly is too loose and won't hold. Take the clamp off and use a wormgear hose clamp that you can tighten once the hose is on.

(2) I meant to try and secure the rubber hose to the broken end of the black 45-degree angle connector. I wouldn't try to get the hose directly onto the clear plastic part else the downward tension looks like it could snap the clear plastic part or at least that's what I'd be worried about just seeing it from the photo. You're seeing it 'live' so maybe there's not as much tension as I think there is.

(3) Regarding the rubber hose you either need to (a) remove the clamp and get the broken plastic out of the last couple inches of the hose or (b) cut it cleanly off. If you've got enough slack on the hose, I'd cut it. Even if you take the hose clamp off and get the plastic out of the hose, the hose is somewhat stretched. Since you don't have much to grip on if you re-use the angle connector, I'd have as new of an end of the rubber hose on there as I could again, scuffing up the stub end of the angle connector a bit as well so it holds fast.

Got job, sounds like you're on it!!!!