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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I finally got my wheels in and had a chance to go to the local tire shop and have them mount one tire for me. I now have to do some checks to see if they will fit on my vehicle. I do have a lift kit but it is not installed yet. I also have not done any pinch weld mod or trimming/molding of wheel arch liners. The Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 265/65/17 are 30.55" diameter, 10.71" wide, with a revs/mile of 680. For comparison, a BF Goodrich T/A KO2 in 265/65/17 is 30.5" diameter, 10.7" wide, with a revs/mile of 681. So the Nitto are a hair larger.

As for my wheels I am running Replika R165A gloss black OEM spec (17" x 7.5, 5/110, +31 offset).

I mounted to the front left of the car first.

This first picture is the front of the wheel arch with the steering wheel turned all the way to the right:

210919


This second image is the back of the wheel arch with the steering wheel turned all the way to the left:

210920


In the above rear of the wheel arch picture I have about 3/8" or 0.5cm of clearance. The other thing is that this tire was only at around 25psi. I didn't notice until afterward otherwise I would have aired up to 50psi which is the max for this tire.

There seemed to be plenty of room from the top of the strut plate, as well as from rubbing against anything on the inside of the wheel area.

I attempted to compress the suspension to see how that would affect things but didn't have the tools or terrain necessary to do it. I still need to check the clearance on the rear of the vehicle.

As I suspected it is a very tight fit. My main concern is if the wheel moves forward/backward in the wheel well at all, or how much the suspension will compress. It may be too close without the lift kit.

Here's one beauty shot lol:

210921
 
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So I finally got my wheels in and had a chance to go to the local tire shop and have them mount one tire for me. I now have to do some checks to see if they will fit on my vehicle. I do have a lift kit but it is not installed yet. I also have not done any pinch weld mod or trimming/molding of wheel arch liners. The Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 265/65/17 are 30.55" diameter, 10.71" wide, with a revs/mile of 680. For comparison, a BF Goodrich T/A KO2 in 265/65/17 is 30.5" diameter, 10.7" wide, with a revs/mile of 681. So the Nitto are a hair larger.

As for my wheels I am running Replika R165A gloss black OEM spec (17" x 7.5, 5/110, +31 offset).

I mounted to the front left of the car first.

This first picture is the front of the wheel arch with the steering wheel turned all the way to the right:

View attachment 210919

This second image is the back of the wheel arch with the steering wheel turned all the way to the left:

View attachment 210920

In the above rear of the wheel arch picture I have about 3/8" or 0.5cm of clearance. The other thing is that this tire was only at around 25psi. I didn't notice until afterward otherwise I would have aired up to 50psi which is the max for this tire.

There seemed to be plenty of room from the top of the strut plate, as well as from rubbing against anything on the inside of the wheel area.

I attempted to compress the suspension to see how that would affect things but didn't have the tools or terrain necessary to do it. I still need to check the clearance on the rear of the vehicle.

As I suspected it is a very tight fit. My main concern is if the wheel moves forward/backward in the wheel well at all, or how much the suspension will compress. It may be too close without the lift kit.

Here's one beauty shot lol:

View attachment 210921
Where did you find those wheels? I was thinking you were here in the States. I have not found any distributors in the US. Found a bunch in Canada, but it would be a very costly $hitshow to buy from a dealer up there, and have them shipped down here. I'd be up for someone willing to smuggle me a set to northern Utah...LOL
 
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Is that why it took you so long to get them??? BTW, I don't think those are going to fit before you do the lift. You're going to have expansion at highway speeds, and if that awesomely aggressive tread makes contact with any plastic, it's shredded!!! They sure look good though.
 

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No you won't any issues, that size 265 65 and 245 70 both fit snugly. Lift or no lift won't change it.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Is that why it took you so long to get them??? BTW, I don't think those are going to fit before you do the lift. You're going to have expansion at highway speeds, and if that awesomely aggressive tread makes contact with any plastic, it's shredded!!! They sure look good though.
Yes I got them from Canada. Shipping was about $35 USD per wheel. But even so it was cheaper than buying the equivalent in the USA. I could have saved more money since I live 40 min from the border, but the pandemic closed the border and the Trump china Tariffs would have caused me to get hit with 40%+ tax unless I spent 2+ days in Canada. It was too much hassle logistically. As for the delay I think it was mostly pandemic related. It took 7 weeks to get the wheels but I think it would have been much sooner under normal circumstances.

If you are looking for a US distributor check out RW wheels (they are in soCal). I talked to their guy and they are similar to the wheels I bought. Essentially Chinese replica OEM. BTW there are no replica OEM 2019 black trailhawk wheels available yet. I would have bought those if they existed.

I spent months researching before choosing these wheels and tires so I had the best chance of getting it right the first time around.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
No you won't any issues, that size 265 65 and 245 70 both fit snugly. Lift or no lift won't change it.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
I actually think a lift will help based on my testing. When I jacked up the vehicle to simulate a lift I had more room. The question is really about what happens when I fully compress the suspension.
 
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I actually think a lift will help based on my testing. When I jacked up the vehicle to simulate a lift I had more room. The question is really about what happens when I fully compress the suspension.
Yes, I'll concur with that!!! My best guess to the question of compression is shredded plastic...245/70/17's for me. Guess it's not going to be Grapplers, since you have the smallest size available.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Part 2:

So I tested on the right rear to check the fit and there is much more room than in the front. The only concern I have is how much will the suspension travel up in the rear. Without a lift I measured I have about 6 inches of vertical travel before it would hit the arch liner.

First picture is the front of the wheel arch:

210928


Second picture is the back of the wheel arch:

210929
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Part 3:

I aired up the tire to 50psi (the max for the tire) and put it on the front right. Unfortunately when I turn the steering wheel all the way to the right the tire is now rubbing on the rear of the arch:

210930


I then drove forward/backward a few times with my wheels all the way turned and this was the result:

210931


A definite shiny spot on the back of the arch. I pushed on the plastic and by pushing on it I was able to move it enough where it looks like it wouldn't rub. So I'm thinking I might drill a hole into the plastic and just pull it back with a zip tie. There is a nice hole in the frame behind the arch liner that you could tie to. Or I might be able to heat the plastic and remold it a bit.

I then tried airing the tire down to 25psi and that didn't seem to do anything so I took the tire off. Here's the weird part. I put the tire back on and then I had like 0.25 inches of space. So either the air pressure change did something, or the wheel actually does move front to back a bit in the wheel arch.

I next jacked the car up to simulate a 2 inch lift and then I measured how much vertical travel I had before hitting anything. It was at least 3 inches. Based on my measurements from the top of the strut plate to the top of the wheel arch I don't think the suspension in the front can move more than 3 inches in a stock configuration.
 
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I'm thinking the air pressure probably did nothing. I think there probably is some forward/backward movement in the wheel. Could be the bushing flexing, or the camber of the tire changing a bit when under load when the wheel is turned. I did notice the camber change when I put the weight of the vehicle on the wheel. So once again, a very close call. Is it too close, I'm not sure. How do people not have issues offroad when the suspension compresses without remolding their wheel arches? Assuming they haven't modified their wheel arches, my only explanation would be that everyone else going offroad with oversized tires also has a lift kit installed.
 

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Yes that size tyre with the stock offset rims will slightly rub the back edge of the inner guards at 3/4 to full lock. This usually lasts only a few 1000km and as you noticed the panel can move so does not get caught or shredded. There have been many 100s of 1000s of km or miles done collectively on that sized tyre with no inner guards modifications and never has an inner guards been chewed up.

If you go larger tyres, then the next size requires the inner guards to be heated and stretched back out of the way, then next size again needs the pinch weld behind it trimmed as well.

Don't sweat about it, no problems will occur. If you have larger offset tyres or spacers then they will hit a little more at full lock, but again no one has reported the inner guards being torn up with that size tyre.

I run the Goodyear Duratracs LT version in 245 70 17, one of the largest measuring tyres in that size and they did rub for a few months at 40psi. But after some pretty flexing driving and (accidental) hard full suspension compression slams have never had an issue.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Yes that size tyre with the stock offset rims will slightly rub the back edge of the inner guards at 3/4 to full lock. This usually lasts only a few 1000km and as you noticed the panel can move so does not get caught or shredded. There have been many 100s of 1000s of km or miles done collectively on that sized tyre with no inner guards modifications and never has an inner guards been chewed up.

If you go larger tyres, then the next size requires the inner guards to be heated and stretched back out of the way, then next size again needs the pinch weld behind it trimmed as well.

Don't sweat about it, no problems will occur. If you have larger offset tyres or spacers then they will hit a little more at full lock, but again no one has reported the inner guards being torn up with that size tyre.

I run the Goodyear Duratracs LT version in 245 70 17, one of the largest measuring tyres in that size and they did rub for a few months at 40psi. But after some pretty flexing driving and (accidental) hard full suspension compression slams have never had an issue.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
Are you running the standard load or the E load tires? The E load tires are more comparable in size to these Ridge Grapplers, except for the width. It's the width that is getting me.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I"m not sure why you would ever run 50psi, thats the max the tire can safely handle. If it's at 50 and you go driving the pressure goes up and now its past the same limits.
I was just doing it to see if it affected the size of the tire at all. My result was inconclusive since I believe the suspension has a small amount of play.
 

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So I finally got my wheels in and had a chance to go to the local tire shop and have them mount one tire for me. I now have to do some checks to see if they will fit on my vehicle. I do have a lift kit but it is not installed yet. I also have not done any pinch weld mod or trimming/molding of wheel arch liners. The Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 265/65/17 are 30.55" diameter, 10.71" wide, with a revs/mile of 680. For comparison, a BF Goodrich T/A KO2 in 265/65/17 is 30.5" diameter, 10.7" wide, with a revs/mile of 681. So the Nitto are a hair larger.

As for my wheels I am running Replika R165A gloss black OEM spec (17" x 7.5, 5/110, +31 offset).

I mounted to the front left of the car first.

This first picture is the front of the wheel arch with the steering wheel turned all the way to the right:

View attachment 210919

This second image is the back of the wheel arch with the steering wheel turned all the way to the left:

View attachment 210920

In the above rear of the wheel arch picture I have about 3/8" or 0.5cm of clearance. The other thing is that this tire was only at around 25psi. I didn't notice until afterward otherwise I would have aired up to 50psi which is the max for this tire.

There seemed to be plenty of room from the top of the strut plate, as well as from rubbing against anything on the inside of the wheel area.

I attempted to compress the suspension to see how that would affect things but didn't have the tools or terrain necessary to do it. I still need to check the clearance on the rear of the vehicle.

As I suspected it is a very tight fit. My main concern is if the wheel moves forward/backward in the wheel well at all, or how much the suspension will compress. It may be too close without the lift kit.

Here's one beauty shot lol:

View attachment 210921
I have Falken Wildpeaks P265/65/17 on my 2017 Trailhawk with 61000 miles on them no problem!
 

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Falken were a lot less than Grapplers where I live. I have absolutely loved them and have ran with the JK rubis with them on
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Falken were a lot less than Grapplers where I live. I have absolutely loved them and have ran with the JK rubis with them on
The falkens are quite a bit smaller. 697 revs per mile vs 680 for the nittos. The closest I have found is the 265/65/17 KO2 at 681 per mile.
 

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So I finally got my wheels in and had a chance to go to the local tire shop and have them mount one tire for me. I now have to do some checks to see if they will fit on my vehicle. I do have a lift kit but it is not installed yet. I also have not done any pinch weld mod or trimming/molding of wheel arch liners. The Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 265/65/17 are 30.55" diameter, 10.71" wide, with a revs/mile of 680. For comparison, a BF Goodrich T/A KO2 in 265/65/17 is 30.5" diameter, 10.7" wide, with a revs/mile of 681. So the Nitto are a hair larger.

As for my wheels I am running Replika R165A gloss black OEM spec (17" x 7.5, 5/110, +31 offset).

I mounted to the front left of the car first.

This first picture is the front of the wheel arch with the steering wheel turned all the way to the right:

View attachment 210919

This second image is the back of the wheel arch with the steering wheel turned all the way to the left:

View attachment 210920

In the above rear of the wheel arch picture I have about 3/8" or 0.5cm of clearance. The other thing is that this tire was only at around 25psi. I didn't notice until afterward otherwise I would have aired up to 50psi which is the max for this tire.

There seemed to be plenty of room from the top of the strut plate, as well as from rubbing against anything on the inside of the wheel area.

I attempted to compress the suspension to see how that would affect things but didn't have the tools or terrain necessary to do it. I still need to check the clearance on the rear of the vehicle.

As I suspected it is a very tight fit. My main concern is if the wheel moves forward/backward in the wheel well at all, or how much the suspension will compress. It may be too close without the lift kit.

Here's one beauty shot lol:

View attachment 210921
How’s the road noise? I do a lot of highway and want that look and functionality so I can drive anywhere.
 

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Where did you find those wheels? I was thinking you were here in the States. I have not found any distributors in the US. Found a bunch in Canada, but it would be a very costly $hitshow to buy from a dealer up there, and have them shipped down here. I'd be up for someone willing to smuggle me a set to northern Utah...LOL
Look up “Steve’s Jeep country” they are out of New Hampshire and they Dan get them for you
 

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Part 3:

I aired up the tire to 50psi (the max for the tire) and put it on the front right. Unfortunately when I turn the steering wheel all the way to the right the tire is now rubbing on the rear of the arch:

View attachment 210930

I then drove forward/backward a few times with my wheels all the way turned and this was the result:

View attachment 210931

A definite shiny spot on the back of the arch. I pushed on the plastic and by pushing on it I was able to move it enough where it looks like it wouldn't rub. So I'm thinking I might drill a hole into the plastic and just pull it back with a zip tie. There is a nice hole in the frame behind the arch liner that you could tie to. Or I might be able to heat the plastic and remold it a bit.

I then tried airing the tire down to 25psi and that didn't seem to do anything so I took the tire off. Here's the weird part. I put the tire back on and then I had like 0.25 inches of space. So either the air pressure change did something, or the wheel actually does move front to back a bit in the wheel arch.

I next jacked the car up to simulate a 2 inch lift and then I measured how much vertical travel I had before hitting anything. It was at least 3 inches. Based on my measurements from the top of the strut plate to the top of the wheel arch I don't think the suspension in the front can move more than 3 inches in a stock configuration.
If you have a heath gun you can heat that plastic to mold it so you have mor space
 
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