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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Because I can. And it’s a lot cheaper. 😉 after looking around at the options, I figured I’d put my nearly 20 years of experience as an auto body technician and certified welder to work. I removed the plastic rocker moldings, took some measurements, and ordered some steel from a local steel fabricator. They are cutting some 2x3” 1/8” wall steel tubing to length for me, and custom braking me some 12 gauge sheet steel for the bracketry. I’ll probably be fitting it and doing all the the fabrication this weekend. Hopefully I’ll have time to bedline them and get them installed afterwards. I’ve ordered stainless steel nutserts and stainless button head bolts for mounting. I’ll be sure to post some pictures of the process and finished product. The whole deal (steel, hardware, bedliner) will only cost me about $250.

Edit: forgot to mention that I have a 2019 TH 3.2L. And yes, I did consider using 3/16” steel, but I decided to save a little weight by going with 1/8”. I do some 4 wheeling, but more dirt and trees than rocks, so I’m less worried about needing absolute brute strength from my sliders.
 

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Admire your grit, man. But, am worried that the 1/8" will lose any structural integrity after the 1st dent, like a paper towel tube.
Hope you prove me wrong, and look forward to seeing your progress!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I did a decent bit of research on a number of sites, and for the wheeling I do, I think they’ll be ok. If I was doing a lot more rock crawling, I would have gone 3/16” for sure. But this is my daily, that gets used for occasional off-roading, so I won’t be going too crazy with it.
 

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Because I can. And it’s a lot cheaper. 😉 after looking around at the options, I figured I’d put my nearly 20 years of experience as an auto body technician and certified welder to work. I removed the plastic rocker moldings, took some measurements, and ordered some steel from a local steel fabricator. They are cutting some 2x3” 1/8” wall steel tubing to length for me, and custom braking me some 12 gauge sheet steel for the bracketry. I’ll probably be fitting it and doing all the the fabrication this weekend. Hopefully I’ll have time to bedline them and get them installed afterwards. I’ve ordered stainless steel nutserts and stainless button head bolts for mounting. I’ll be sure to post some pictures of the process and finished product. The whole deal (steel, hardware, bedliner) will only cost me about $250.

Edit: forgot to mention that I have a 2019 TH 3.2L. And yes, I did consider using 3/16” steel, but I decided to save a little weight by going with 1/8”. I do some 4 wheeling, but more dirt and trees than rocks, so I’m less worried about needing absolute brute strength from my sliders.
That's certainly cheaper than my setup (when I'm done), and I am going to install them myself to save on labor there. Material costs alone it is probably going to be around $1500.
 
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2019 Trailhawk Elite 2.0T Olive Green Metallic Pearlcoat
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That's certainly cheaper than my setup (when I'm done), and I am going to install them myself to save on labor there. Material costs alone it is probably going to be around $1500.
Oh, do tell!!! Enquiring ears want to know what's the latest in the infamous @sqenixs laboratory...😎
 

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Everyone always says then can do it easy and cheaper and here we are almost 8 years into the platform and how many people have done it? Its like the people who said they could build a bumper cheaper than Expo 1, but never did
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I get where you’re coming from, Tyler. I see those posts too, and often scoff. The difference with my situation is that I’m a professional auto body tech with fabrication experience. So I have the knowledge, experience, and confidence to make this happen.
 

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I get where you’re coming from, Tyler. I see those posts too, and often scoff. The difference with my situation is that I’m a professional auto body tech with fabrication experience. So I have the knowledge, experience, and confidence to make this happen.
Be sure to post pictures of the progress...😎
 

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People seem to really underestimate the cost of labor. That's what gets you. I got RRO sliders and step plates, cost me $888. Then when I got them delivered the powder coat was poorly applied and flaked off in areas, which is a problem because I am going to get them coated in Line-X. So I need to pay a guy a couple hundred to sandblast them, then the Line-X which will probably cost $250-500. So $1500 easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
When you said $1500 in materials, I didn’t realize you were buying existing sliders and then blasting and coating them. That’s definitely a lot more than just a materials cost. Most of your sandblasting is labor, as it the LineX cost. Not to mention the cost of labor for RRO to build them. Your actual materials cost is probably closer to $500 at most, if you could figure out what the steel cost RRO, the blasting media and the LineX spray. I will be into this entire project for about $250 in materials. I’m estimating it will take me about a day to build and spray them. So if I were to pay myself my normal daily rate at my day job as a body man, I will have still only spent about $450-500 including labor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
First update. I picked up my metal today. The metal shop I used made my angle bracket with the wrong gauge steel. They used 14g instead of the 12g I requested. They’re remaking those two pieces for me and they should be ready tomorrow. If they are, I’ll still be on track to build the sliders this weekend.
The design is simple, for those who are interested. I had my metal shop cut and break steel into an L (picture angle iron). I will use this to clad the entire rocker, similar to how people build rocker guards for a Wrangler. It will get bolted to the body with M8 stainless rivnuts and button head bolts. Then I’ll weld the 1/8” 2x3 rectangular tube to it, so it protrudes under the door, much like the other sliders on the market. I’m also planning on some bracing for the back side.
 

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Then I’ll weld the 1/8” 2x3 rectangular tube to it, so it protrudes under the door
1st time you mentioned 'rectangular', before when you were just saying 'tube', I honestly imagined a round tube... This in itself adds quite a bit of structure. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
My bad. I didn’t realize I wasn’t clear before. Yeah, I see in my original post I just said 2x3 tube. I assumed people would understand rectangular. No worries though. I’ll start posting pics over the next couple days as I begin work.
 
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