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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Ok... I'll admit, I was a little enthusiastic about using a torque wrench as a breaker bar. In my [foggy] mind, such a use would be very rare, as in we rarely change a tire away from home (well, those of us who don't off-road... especially...). So yeah a beam type torque wrench will do as a breaker bar in a pinch, and double-up as, well (doh !) a torque wrench for emergencies. And yes, a breaker bar with an experienced hand does great as a torque wrench road-side lol.

I have a clicker torque wrench at home, would not carry it in the Jeep though (no need).

One thing I forgot to mention concerning 17mm head bolts : I have a 1/2'' breaker bar and also a 3/8'' drive socket set on board. I removed the supplied spark plug socket and stuffed a deep 17mm (3/8'') one instead, because a breaker bar is good for half turns, but a ratchet is much better/quicker for the rest of the job. In lieu of a deep 17mm socket, one could use a regular socket with an extension (if set contains one). For those of you wondering : a 5/8'' spark plug socket = 15.9mm, so it won't fit on the lug bolt... and not by much...
Yeah, I don’t carry the torque wrench in the Jeep. It lives at home, in the case, in the toolbox. If I have to change a tire on the trail or side of the road, tight is tight…good to go. I‘lol fix it later at the house. Anytime I have tires professionally installed, though, when I get home I break them loose and re torque. Twice I’ve been on the side of road having to fight to loosen an over torqued, air wrench applied lug bolt. Ever seen the Big Bang where they have a flat, somewhere in the Mexican desert, can’t get a lug bolt off and set the van on fire? I didn’t set the truck on fire but I know the feeling. 😎
 

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I've had a kit like this for 20 years, it has never met a lug bolt (or nut) that it couldn't handle... Price varies wildly, so search for "OEM TOOLS 20564"
214047
 

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LOL!!! Ya, our crappy OEM bolts are probably 17mm without the stupid chrome caps...😎
I think I recall one of our members actually checked, after a good effort to remove one of those lovely caps... and I believe what was underneath was not standard, but I forget the number.

Who's up for a teardown ? Haha. I don't have the tools for that... ;)
 

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Refer to Post #20:
Actually I was hoping the same thing when my caps were distorted.
Removed the sheet metal to expose the bare steel.
I did not have a metric or American or 6 point or 12 point socket that fit.
Since my Jeep dealer mangled the bolts I let them figure out how to get them off.
That is when I bought the inexpensive NAPA bolts.
 

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maybe it's in our manual & I may not use the info, cuz I'm used to tightening lug bolts by feel, but what should these bolts be torqued at?

100 ft-lbs?
 

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question for the gang, does a torque wrench not quality as a breaker bar, because it has some flex to it?
As a breaker bar for passenger vehicle lug bolts/nuts, the beam-style torque wrenches are great. As a breaker car for tractor and bobcat bolts? No, of course not. And the clicker style should never be used as breaker bars.

I don't care for the "clicker" style torque wrenches. They are inaccurate/become inaccurate over time and realistically nobody sends them in to be re-calibrated. You have probably thousands of people who bought one ten years ago for $20 at their local box store and those ones by now are WAY, WAY off their mark (if they were even on to start with), who knows what torque you are actually applying when those cheap ones click off. Then you have the $300 models that at least are accurate to start with (out of the box) but again the fine print in the manual will state that they require occasional recalibration that nobody ever does. $20 model or $300 model, both are wrecked the first time you put them away in their case and forget to un-tension the spring... Clicker style requires a few 'warm up" clicks to be at peak accuracy which means you first tension it to maybe 50 ft lbs and go around your lug nuts and then you can re-tension it for 90 or whatever your owner's manual says. They are just putsy, fussy, (eventually) inaccurate, fragile, more expensive than beam style...

If you're doing head gaskets and other actual engine parts you need a decent torque wrench with high accuracy. For plain old lug nuts/bolts, an $8 beam-style torque wrench is perfect. Cheap, durable, repeatably accurate, no setup, doubles as a breaker for lugs. Ideal.

$23 for a 24'' breaker bar ain't bad...
It kinda is compared to $7 torque wrench that will also break lugs loose easily: Tool Shop® 2-Way Torque Wrench
 

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As a breaker bar for passenger vehicle lug bolts/nuts, the beam-style torque wrenches are great. As a breaker car for tractor and bobcat bolts? No, of course not. And the clicker style should never be used as breaker bars.

I don't care for the "clicker" style torque wrenches. They are inaccurate/become inaccurate over time and realistically nobody sends them in to be re-calibrated. You have probably thousands of people who bought one ten years ago for $20 at their local box store and those ones by now are WAY, WAY off their mark (if they were even on to start with), who knows what torque you are actually applying when those cheap ones click off. Then you have the $300 models that at least are accurate to start with (out of the box) but again the fine print in the manual will state that they require occasional recalibration that nobody ever does. $20 model or $300 model, both are wrecked the first time you put them away in their case and forget to un-tension the spring... Clicker style requires a few 'warm up" clicks to be at peak accuracy which means you first tension it to maybe 50 ft lbs and go around your lug nuts and then you can re-tension it for 90 or whatever your owner's manual says. They are just putsy, fussy, (eventually) inaccurate, fragile, more expensive than beam style...

If you're doing head gaskets and other actual engine parts you need a decent torque wrench with high accuracy. For plain old lug nuts/bolts, an $8 beam-style torque wrench is perfect. Cheap, durable, repeatably accurate, no setup, doubles as a breaker for lugs. Ideal.



It kinda is compared to $7 torque wrench that will also break lugs loose easily: Tool Shop® 2-Way Torque Wrench
$7 ? Whaaat ?? You win... ;)
 

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And.... it has a rebate!!!
 

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I always liked the good old fashioned 4 way, good for leverage, and you could break it loose, and spin it off. Unfortunately, not the best choice for our recessed lug bolts, and would scratch the hell out of the wheel to boot. The guys at the tire shop hate me when I'm constantly reminding them, you scratch them, you bought them!!!LOL...😎
 

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I always liked the good old fashioned 4 way, good for leverage, and you could break it loose, and spin it off. Unfortunately, not the best choice for our recessed lug bolts, and would scratch the hell out of the wheel to boot. The guys at the tire shop hate me when I'm constantly reminding them, you scratch them, you bought them!!!LOL...😎
214052

just threw this one in my trunk, why do you think it's not good for our lug bolts. it fit my new bolt heads just fine. or is that not what you were referring to? & my OEM wheels are already trashed from human lug-nutz ;-(
 

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View attachment 214052
just threw this one in my trunk, why do you think it's not good for our lug bolts. it fit my new bolt heads just fine. or is that not what you were referring to? & my OEM wheels are already trashed from human lug-nutz ;-(
Totally just the scratch factor. I'm just anal, and OCD...LOL!!!😎
 
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just threw this one in my trunk, why do you think it's not good for our lug bolts. it fit my new bolt heads just fine. or is that not what you were referring to?
I know that question wasn't directed at me, but I will quip in that I do have a small problem with that style and the problem is that its so big. Harder to find a home for it in the spare tire area (vs my favorite beam wrench). Its not space efficient, and doesn't really have the leverage of a 24" beam T-wrench either. But we have definitely crossed the line of splitting hairs long since here... if you can get what you need done with it then its good to go (y)
 

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I know that question wasn't directed at me, but I will quip in that I do have a small problem with that style and the problem is that its so big. Harder to find a home for it in the spare tire area (vs my favorite beam wrench). Its not space efficient, and doesn't really have the leverage of a 24" beam T-wrench either. But we have definitely crossed the line of splitting hairs long since here... if you can get what you need done with it then its good to go (y)
yeah that would have my 1st choice cuz one can slip a short length of pipe on it but local auto parts stores only seem to carry this 4way type. but good news there is room for it right on top of my full size spare. thank you Jeep
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Totally just the scratch factor. I'm just anal, and OCD...LOL!!!😎
I'm w/ you on that. mine are shot. lately been thinking, if I keep the car like want to (to 200k, at 159k now) maybe I can find some take-offs for not a lot of $$. been torturing the OEM alloy 18s & they show their age. I can clean them & they still shine pretty good, but up close, around the bolt holes, they be nasty
 

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I just ordered the black plastic caps. I went through 8 years of OCD with my last Corvette with nice wheels/tuner lug nuts. The shiny lug bolts + the black wheels on the TH just need the covers after 6 years of lug bolt wrench abuse. The wheels are GTG however.
 

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Thanks Mark_ for the link for the covers. I thought about red covers... but they didn't have them in 19mm.
* PS showed me that red would not have been a starter.
 
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