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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So even after replacing my battery with a new AGM battery, I had another incident with my dash lighting up, multiple failures such as 4wd, throttle, traction and collision warning. It ran great for the last 2 months. I was able to restart it and get it to run, and the next day the check engine light turned off. I’ve been following my battery voltage and it runs at 13.2 while driving and 13.4 when at a stop. Is that normal? I have a 2019 jeep Cherokee trail hawk elite 2.0 turbo.
 

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So even after replacing my battery with a new AGM battery, I had another incident with my dash lighting up, multiple failures such as 4wd, throttle, traction and collision warning. It ran great for the last 2 months. I was able to restart it and get it to run, and the next day the check engine light turned off. I’ve been following my battery voltage and it runs at 13.2 while driving and 13.4 when at a stop. Is that normal? I have a 2019 jeep Cherokee trail hawk elite 2.0 turbo.
I have the same Cherokee, and mine is always 13.8-14 volts. Check your connections, if you can move them on the posts at all, they're not tight enough. Also check the grounds, and the connector at the alternator...😎
 

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I too would get the alternator checked, 13.2 is too low as is 13.4. Mine is always around 14v. Places that check your battery will also be able to check the alternator and charging for you in a couple of mins.
 

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With engine at idle or above = 14.2VDC; with engine off = 12.0VDC. I have a 8 month old X2 Power AGM battery.
 
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So even after replacing my battery with a new AGM battery, I had another incident with my dash lighting up, multiple failures such as 4wd, throttle, traction and collision warning. It ran great for the last 2 months. I was able to restart it and get it to run, and the next day the check engine light turned off. I’ve been following my battery voltage and it runs at 13.2 while driving and 13.4 when at a stop. Is that normal? I have a 2019 jeep Cherokee trail hawk elite 2.0 turbo.
This is normal - if your battery is fully charged, charging is between 13V (even 12.8V) and 14.4V. It depends on whether you are stopping or accelerating. If your battery is in bad condition, the charging is more stable like 14V-14.4V.
 

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Just get the charging system tested. That should tell you everything you need to know. It's one of several things, battery, which even many newer ones can fail prematurely, alternator, which rarely fail, but anything is possible, intelligent battery sensor, or bad connection and or grounds somewhere between the three components...It ain't rocket science...😎
 

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Even though its a new battery, get it load tested. Its possible it may have a manufacturing defect. If it checks out ok, next check for parasitic loss, especially if its low on charge. The running voltage will fluctuate with battery State of Charge and temperature. 13.2 is slightly low (but not necessarily bad), but 3.6 is very common when its hotter outside.
 

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Some years ago, we had an aftermarket remote start installed in my father-in-law's vehicle for Christmas. Expensive one, reputable dealer. The car started going through batteries - like last a year or just over - and get a new battery. Since various family members were involved, no one had a true handle on the situation and because of cost, they were throwing cheap batteries in it.

OK, so my brother-in-law finally gets the car (and it had a battery that I installed six months before) and it won't crank. I loan him my charger and he gets it running and takes the car to his mechanic at Monroe Muffler. I'm not here to put down MM, but what do they do? Why they put a new battery in it and throw out the one I had bought six months before!

I told my brother-in-law to take it to the place that installed the remote start and have them troubleshoot it. Well, they did and the diagnosis was the remote start! That was funny. Because it had gone through all this over several years, the warranty was expired. Perfect! The moral of the story is they disabled the remote start and the car has been just fine for two years.

Parasitic loads can do funny things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I haven’t had another issue the last 2 days since the check engine light turned off. The battery voltage seems to be Improving, it was 13.6 yesterday and up to 13.7 today. Just been driving it to work and back, it did cool down weather wise the last couple of days. I’ll be buying a battery tester.
 

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Some years ago, we had an aftermarket remote start installed in my father-in-law's vehicle for Christmas. Expensive one, reputable dealer. The car started going through batteries - like last a year or just over - and get a new battery. Since various family members were involved, no one had a true handle on the situation and because of cost, they were throwing cheap batteries in it.

OK, so my brother-in-law finally gets the car (and it had a battery that I installed six months before) and it won't crank. I loan him my charger and he gets it running and takes the car to his mechanic at Monroe Muffler. I'm not here to put down MM, but what do they do? Why they put a new battery in it and throw out the one I had bought six months before!

I told my brother-in-law to take it to the place that installed the remote start and have them troubleshoot it. Well, they did and the diagnosis was the remote start! That was funny. Because it had gone through all this over several years, the warranty was expired. Perfect! The moral of the story is they disabled the remote start and the car has been just fine for two years.

Parasitic loads can do funny things.
Pretty much same thing happened with my mom's Mazda 3. Dealer installed a good aftermarket remote start kit, and batteries wouldn't last more than 2.5 years. Mind you the car sat for long periods, mostly driven in town which didn't help, but years later the remote start kit was removed and battery life seemed to extend, but then there was Covid, with less driving, etc... so difficult to assess now that is was being charged more often (trickle charger).
 
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