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My 2019 Trailhawk did same thing last Summer (Bought Nov 2018)...Last August the Battery was working like a champ, then dead as a door nail next day...Interestingly enough, prior to the original battery going dead a couple of months prior, the auto stop start failed to operate irrespective of pushing the button on the dash or not...When I replace the battery, everything functioned as per design...Painless!!!
 
My 2019 Trailhawk did same thing last Summer (Bought Nov 2018)...Last August the Battery was working like a champ, then dead as a door nail next day...Interestingly enough, prior to the original battery going dead a couple of months prior, the auto stop start failed to operate irrespective of pushing the button on the dash or not...When I replace the battery, everything functioned as per design...Painless!!!
Stop/Start not working with ''Battery charging'' messages getting more frequent usually means the battery is on its way down. It's a great unintended battery health monitor.

A battery failing dramatically like your second one did... is usually caused by a defective battery (dead cell).
 
Not driving the Jeep 20 miles a week is a problem, for the battery. You should consider a trickle charger/maintainer, for the future.
I just want to stress the importance of the reply by Mark here. Modern vehicles, especially our Cherokees, are tough on batteries and nowadays when so many people are working from home their vehicles are sitting in the garage slowing draining the battery.

My original battery is now 4+ years old and load tests show that it is still in great condition. The main reason for that is my use of a battery maintainer whenever it is not driven for more than a few days. I'm a big proponent of their use as they can really extend the life of batteries!
 
Stop/Start not working with ''Battery charging'' messages getting more frequent usually means the battery is on its way down. It's a great unintended battery health monitor.

A battery failing dramatically like your second one did... is usually caused by a defective battery (dead cell).
My X2 has started doing that a year 2. But I also carry my jump packs and everything needed for a proxy on me, so not really worried about it. Figured I'd wait it out to see if maybe its related to aux beam and dash camera being wired to constant power.
 
Perhaps Stop/Start would work reliably if our Jeeps were powered by miniature nuclear reactors? :unsure:
 
My X2 has started doing that a year 2. But I also carry my jump packs and everything needed for a proxy on me, so not really worried about it. Figured I'd wait it out to see if maybe its related to aux beam and dash camera being wired to constant power.
I've seen one or two of your videos and noticed how hard you work that Northstar (X2 Power). I call that battery abuse, though not in a negative way because it is put to good use. I'm not surprised it is showing signs of decline, no battery can withstand that kind of torture for too long. You should get a 27F next time ;)
 
I've seen one or two of your videos and noticed how hard you work that Northstar (X2 Power). I call that battery abuse, though not in a negative way because it is put to good use. I'm not surprised it is showing signs of decline, no battery can withstand that kind of torture for too long. You should get a 27F next time ;)
Oh I agree. lol The fact that its still holding strong, I have no complaints. The stock battery would have fried long before. The start stop will still work for 3 or 4 days after a long ride. I really think most of it has to do with the constant draw on the battery from not having them hooked to ACC. I'm also in and out of it a lot right after a ride to clean, dry, and repack all the recovery gear. I've found though, to use my lights for a long time with the engine off, I have to turn the ignition on. It will time out in ACC mode. I was swapping jump a fuse locations on the weekend, but got tired of it, and just went to the battery post with it. The way I look at it, it has a warranty, so I'm going to use it hard. I did just find out last night there is a recall on the winch for the remote though. I probably need to make a post on it as a lot use those types. It affects all Warn EVO VR winches. I got a notice from amazon about it, and then went and looked it up. I had another video I threw up last night from some climbing we did. Probably should have aired down, but I was lazy, and wasn't sure what we had planned. I did use the rock slider a lot at one point to keep me off the dirt wall. Worked perfectly. Didn't use the winch any then, but both times I just hooked up a snatch rope. Who knows what tonight will bring. We are finally starting to get some rain back. The forest is still very dry.
 
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Discussion starter · #28 ·
Well, a BIG thanks to all.

Off I went at 9:30 this morning to Autozone, where after looking at the Jeep the nice gentleman told me:
A: your battery tests good as does your alternator.
B: I'll sell you one, but that's an Orielly's battery from 3/22 under warranty and their store is 2/10ths of a mile away.

So, off I went at 10:00 this morning to Oriellys, where after looking at the Jeep the nice gentleman told me:
A: your battery tests good as does your alternator, but if you want, we'll swap it out of courtesy. Unfortunately, he dropped a 10mm socket down, we spent 15 minutes changing the battery, 1 hour looking for the socket (never found it).

Jeep started right up, nothing was lost except the EQ (Bass / Mid /Treble) settings, and as an added bonus my Kicker Amp which went in protection mode yesterday during this debacle came back to life, so no need to visit the car stereo store (y).

However, as I started to drive away from Orielly's I noticed that the EVIC still read "Start / Stop Not Ready - Batter Charging". Since the Jeep dealer is only 5 miles from Orielly's I figured I stop by there (because this is such a fun day :(). I explained to the service advisor that the battery was 30 minutes old, and she stated the stop / start can take a couple of days to relearn its function. She made an appointment for an HVAC fan rattle and stated were booking 5 days in advance and diagnostics are running 3 - 4 days once we start. We'll check the Stop / Start then, also.

Which leads me to comment on Lindy's post:
Perhaps Stop/Start would work reliably if our Jeeps were powered by miniature nuclear reactors? :unsure:
Perhaps the engineer that came up with this Stop/Start should work so closely to a nuclear reactor, that for generations he / she would be unable to breed. :)
 
When I had the dashcam wired 24/7, it almost toasted the battery

Took the solar charger from the Bug and put it in the KL, worked well to keep the battery charged enough to offset the loss from the dashcam.

Maybe a small solar charger would work for you and keep everything topped up
 
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Well, a BIG thanks to all.

Off I went at 9:30 this morning to Autozone, where after looking at the Jeep the nice gentleman told me:
A: your battery tests good as does your alternator.
B: I'll sell you one, but that's an Orielly's battery from 3/22 under warranty and their store is 2/10ths of a mile away.

So, off I went at 10:00 this morning to Oriellys, where after looking at the Jeep the nice gentleman told me:
A: your battery tests good as does your alternator, but if you want, we'll swap it out of courtesy. Unfortunately, he dropped a 10mm socket down, we spent 15 minutes changing the battery, 1 hour looking for the socket (never found it).

Jeep started right up, nothing was lost except the EQ (Bass / Mid /Treble) settings, and as an added bonus my Kicker Amp which went in protection mode yesterday during this debacle came back to life, so no need to visit the car stereo store (y).

However, as I started to drive away from Orielly's I noticed that the EVIC still read "Start / Stop Not Ready - Batter Charging". Since the Jeep dealer is only 5 miles from Orielly's I figured I stop by there (because this is such a fun day :(). I explained to the service advisor that the battery was 30 minutes old, and she stated the stop / start can take a couple of days to relearn its function. She made an appointment for an HVAC fan rattle and stated were booking 5 days in advance and diagnostics are running 3 - 4 days once we start. We'll check the Stop / Start then, also.

Which leads me to comment on Lindy's post:


Perhaps the engineer that came up with this Stop/Start should work so closely to a nuclear reactor, that for generations he / she would be unable to breed. :)
Oh yes the dropped 10mm socket... been there done that ! First time I dropped a tool in there, I used my borescope (for fun) and eventually found it, picked it up with a magnet. Second time : I dropped a corner of the belly pan/guard and immediately found it. Belly pan catches almost everything that falls from higher up. Removing a couple belly pan screws and prying it open does the trick. Best achieved with ramps, or better yet up on a hoist. Use your fist to tap the soft belly pan until you locate the missing part/tool, then open belly pan closest to that spot. If lucky, you might be able to reach the tool via the oil drain plug trap door, or the oil filter trap door (no need to remove belly pan screws).

Yes the intelligent battery sensor needs some time to relearn, so what you are experiencing there is 100% normal. A day or two, with a few engine On/Off cycles does the trick.

As @SkipW points out, any 'hot' connected accessory can kill you battery as well, if current is drawn when the ignition is Off. Dash cams and amps are often culprits, depending on how they were wired...
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Yes the intelligent battery sensor needs some time to relearn, so what you are experiencing there is 100% normal. A day or two, with a few engine On/Off cycles does the trick.
Thanks... start / Stop is now working!!! (of course, it is an odd numbered day in an odd numbered month and I believe it's a holiday in Mauritania, etc..... ;)

In all seriousness, I will need to research the battery tender solution as moving to the retirement community (old folks' home :)), has drastically reduced my driving.
 
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I wasn't going to risk losing anything when I changed my battery. I used a memory saver and a small 12V battery plugged into the OBD port to save everything during the swap. Worked fine.
I figure why take a chance something will go wrong.
+ 1
 
Replaced the battery on my 19 limited at a battery supplier, they connected some bypass device that kept power connectivity whilst they changed the battery, so no loss of anything.
 
Replaced the battery on my 19 limited at a battery supplier, they connected some bypass device that kept power connectivity whilst they changed the battery, so no loss of anything.
Hi there,

Just FYI, there is no loss of anything when disconnecting a battery, really. The only problem is the onset of a check engine light condition, triggered by a prolonged absence of power. But the check engine condition is benign, disappears in about a day.
 
I am assuming first you disconnected - then +, then pulled the battery and installed the new one then connected + then -.

does she have nav ?
My 2019 Trailhawk Elite would not start today, so I jumped it using a portable jump starter, Started right up.

About an hour later it had the same issue, and I jumped it using a portable jump starter, Started right up.

Obviously, this is going to need a battery BUT what is the process for changing this battery. I have no problem driving to the local AutoZone to get a battery (I've heard the even help you install it), BUT I am worried that the nav and possibly other things will not work if this is disconnected from the battery during the switch.

can anyone shed some light on this - Thanks
 
Don't necessarily think it's the battery. Get it tested and it may be something else and possibly less expensive. I had a similar issue on my 2014 Trail Hawk (albeit older) and it turned out to be the $12.00 ground cable had corroded thru.
 
I will be replacing my agm very soon. I was planning on using jumper cables from a spare battery to maintain power.
1- Remove battery clamp
2-Loosen terminals
3-Clamp on jumper cables from another battery (boat battery is sitting right there)
4-Disconnect cables from Jeep battery and protect from contacting anything
5-Swap out battery.
6-Reconnect,...

Seems like there are quite a few different things that could get funny, not interested in going to the dealer.
Dave
 
I will be replacing my agm very soon. I was planning on using jumper cables from a spare battery to maintain power.
1- Remove battery clamp
2-Loosen terminals
3-Clamp on jumper cables from another battery (boat battery is sitting right there)
4-Disconnect cables from Jeep battery and protect from contacting anything
5-Swap out battery.
6-Reconnect,...

Seems like there are quite a few different things that could get funny, not interested in going to the dealer.
Dave
Honestly, if a car/boat battery is your only option as far as a 12V source goes, I'd just go ahead and do the battery swap with no power at all. Reason is a decently charged automotive battery packs a lot of power (short circuit Amps) and if you get the clamps/wires together (crap happens), you'd be looking a possible major event : risk of fire, risk of destroying Jeep's electronics, etc...

One way of doing that 'kind of safely' would be to set the spare battery in the Jeep, passenger side floor, and hook it up to the 12V outlet in the center console (it is a Live outlet), making sure your clamps and nice and secure. You would need a male cigatette lighter plug to do it. This way, battery is out of your way as you work under the hood, out of the way for anyone to trip over, etc... I use an old 12V power supply which I hook up to that 12V outlet
 
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