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Had my TH in the garage for three days while fixing a mark on my lift gate. I ran the stereo for likely 4-5 hours at volumes over 20, so the amp was working it. Yesterday while finishing up, I noticed the head unit cutting in and out. Windows would not go up, and the power lift gate was inoperable. My test meter showed voltage at 11.8V. Still had lights, etc, but not a sound when I pushed the start button. Boosted her with my wife's car, and started right up. Went for a fifteen minute run, dash showed 13.7V, and all seems good again. Is this to be expected? Thanks!
 

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Had my TH in the garage for three days while fixing a mark on my lift gate. I ran the stereo for likely 4-5 hours at volumes over 20, so the amp was working it. Yesterday while finishing up, I noticed the head unit cutting in and out. Windows would not go up, and the power lift gate was inoperable. My test meter showed voltage at 11.8V. Still had lights, etc, but not a sound when I pushed the start button. Boosted her with my wife's car, and started right up. Went for a fifteen minute run, dash showed 13.7V, and all seems good again. Is this to be expected? Thanks!
4-5 hours on the amp ? Possibly doors open as well ? I'd say... probably normal. However you need to get a proper charge on that battery asap (guessing you've done that already).

11.8V is roughly 30% SOC (state of charge), so somewhat... low.

If you don't have one already, maybe it's time for this, going forward :

Edited the voltage info
 

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Not really all good, of course its going to show 13.7v when its running, the alternator is charging the battery and voltage will be between 13.4v-14.7v

If its the factory battery yes it's AGM but no its not really designed to be cycled a bunch. Goes to show how poor a battery the OEM ones are if they can't start from 11.8v resting voltage.

The northstar battery in my 2016 TH (and 2014 Grand Cherokee) would start at a much lower voltage. It's the difference between a quality battery and a poor quality battery. If you plan to frequnetly run down the battery, get a proper deep cycle one

Example 1 Starting at 11.2v


Example 2 Multiple starts

 

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Had my TH in the garage for three days while fixing a mark on my lift gate. I ran the stereo for likely 4-5 hours at volumes over 20, so the amp was working it. Yesterday while finishing up, I noticed the head unit cutting in and out. Windows would not go up, and the power lift gate was inoperable. My test meter showed voltage at 11.8V. Still had lights, etc, but not a sound when I pushed the start button. Boosted her with my wife's car, and started right up. Went for a fifteen minute run, dash showed 13.7V, and all seems good again. Is this to be expected? Thanks!
Yes, I would expect that to happen after running the stereo for 4-5 hours. It's not a good idea to do that with any modern car. If you want to listen to your tunes for a long period with the engine off, I would hook up a charger of some sort while doing so.
 
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A good Northstar/X2 you can likely run the stereo for like 2 days straight, and it will start right up. Might be time for a new battery before winter...😎
 

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A good Northstar/X2 you can likely run the stereo for like 2 days straight, and it will start right up. Might be time for a new battery before winter...😎
I wouldn't be so sure of that. Try it sometime and report back. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A good Northstar/X2 you can likely run the stereo for like 2 days straight, and it will start right up. Might be time for a new battery before winter...😎
Hope not, LoL. Only six months old and 2500 miles.
 

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all joking aside you dont want to run your radio for more than about 20min without car running.
if you are working on it throw it on the battery charger.
 

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all joking aside you dont want to run your radio for more than about 20min without car running.
if you are working on it throw it on the battery charger.
Yep, being old school, I always have a habit of turning off interior lights, auto headlights, etc. when working on a vehicle. I even turn them off, and the radio and hvac when dropping off at a shop...;)
 
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all joking aside you dont want to run your radio for more than about 20min without car running.
if you are working on it throw it on the battery charger.
With a newer battery in the KLs, you can run the radio, have a laptop plugged in, plus a crockpot lunch warmer going all at once without the engine running for the entire 30min the acc function is on before it shuts itself off.

Oh, and having my amber strobe light on as well.

Even though I have a 2014 which does not have the start-stop function, I did upgrade to an AGM battery after my OEM battery went after five years.
 
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With a newer battery in the KLs, you can run the radio, have a laptop plugged in, plus a crockpot lunch warmer going all at once without the engine running for the entire 30min the acc function is on before it shuts itself off.

Oh, and having my amber strobe light on as well.

Even though I have a 2014 which does not have the start-stop function, I did upgrade to an AGM battery after my OEM battery went after five years.
Batteries wear out from charge cycles which is heavily influenced by depth of discharge.

You can do it , but its probably not a good idea for your battery health.

Which is why I said you dont want to run it more than 20min.. I didnt say your car wont start after 20min.
 

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Not with a "Deep Cycle" X2 Power!!!😎
 

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Batteries wear out from charge cycles which is heavily influenced by depth of discharge.

You can do it , but its probably not a good idea for your battery health.

Which is why I said you dont want to run it more than 20min.. I didnt say your car wont start after 20min.
And I never said your car won't either. All I was saying is after 30min, if the car is in acc mode, it'll automatically shut off for the exact reason you specified.
 

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Are the x2 power a deep cycle battery? also RC rating seems to be similar to regular AGM.
That would be the entire point of the deep cycle batteries. You can't tell based on RC rating on cycle life. X2 is a northstar battery.





So regardless of what the RC says that battery is designed to be deeply cycled. As i've shown multiple times it does so very well. My original norhtstar from my 2016 TH is now in my 2014 ADII and its now in it's 5th year, it hasn't had an easy life and its doing very well
 

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That would be the entire point of the deep cycle batteries. You can't tell based on RC rating on cycle life. X2 is a northstar battery.





So regardless of what the RC says that battery is designed to be deeply cycled. As i've shown multiple times it does so very well. My original norhtstar from my 2016 TH is now in my 2014 ADII and its now in it's 5th year, it hasn't had an easy life and its doing very well
Agreed, too bad the IBS/ESS systems can't be told that the battery is a deep cycle type, would stop alot of "issues and concerns"! o_O
 

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Agreed, too bad the IBS/ESS systems can't be told that the battery is a deep cycle type, would stop alot of "issues and concerns"! o_O
In a way, it does 'know'. Example : stick a wet battery in an ESS KL and you'll notice quite soon the battery is incompatible with that particular setup ; we've had members here report of such problems, only to find out they were sold the wrong (= wet) battery. The IBS reports on discharge rates and the PCM responds with adequate charge patterns, meaning quick burts of high amps. Wet batteries can't handle quick charge/discharge patterns and can't accept high current bursts either, not like AGMs can. And then you have the thin plate pure lead AGM advantage (aka Northstar, X2 Power and Odyssey), allowing many more charge/discharge cycles and heavier depths of discharge compared to the more basic lead-calcium AGMs.
 
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