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Nah, I doubt it. That's just surface corrosion on a galvanized nut, it seems. The IBS is in the black plastic box.

About charging : I'm not liking your numbers there. 12.4V is kinda low, if everything off (no drain) and you'd come back from a drive within a few hours.

What type of battery charger are you using there ? If it's an older style model, say 10 or 15 Apms (or more), then yeah don't let it charge overnight, but you can let it do its thing for at least 4-6 hours. But if it's a newer style, *smart* type, then you should hook it up for at least 12 hours straight, to try to bring that voltage up even higher (above 13V for sure). After a decent charge, you'll be able to check on ESS to see if it'll work a bit more.

But from what you've told us so far, it does sound like a failing battery.
What i have
 

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What i have
Thanks. That's a microprocessor controlled charger (aka smart). It's only 1.5 Amps which is not great for charging - it's more for maintaining/float charging - but it will charge when left hooked up long enough. If you can, hook it up for as long as you can (say 12+ hours) and maybe do that a few days in a row. After that, see how ESS behaves.

And don't worry about overcharging with those chargers ; they can be hooked up indefinitely.
 

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Thanks. That's a microprocessor controlled charger (aka smart). It's only 1.5 Amps which is not great for charging - it's more for maintaining/float charging, but it will charge when left hooked up long enough. If you can, hook it up for as long as you can (say 12+ hours) and maybe do that a few days in a row. After that, see how ESS behaves.

And don't worry about overcharging with those chargers ; they can be hooked up indefinitely.
Yes, it was purchased originally to maintain seasonal toy batteries in the off season. I'll give it a shot for a longer time period.
 

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I get the same "A " almost every day, but I disconnected the Hood Switch, so that the Start / Stop does not work.
Siggy
 

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OMG, did I forget to read the fine print? :frown:
My 2015 TH display only said "Stop/Start not available", nothing about the battery. And, it only appeared after driving for more than 90 minutes in one sitting; hence, I didn't see it much. Well, today I'm a believer that it's the battery. I was almost left stranded with a dead battery. After verifying all the accessories were off, I bearly had enough juice to turn the engine over and make it home safely. Apparently, I'm going to need a new battery after 4 years and 98,500 miles.
For a few days ess would work one time after initial startup, then not again during that drive . Shut down, and would work again, once. Now, not at all. Battery does not seem to struggle at all on startups either, yet. I will try a charger overnight this weekend.
Ok, a lot of things to address there :

1) Forget my post about Northstars up here in Canada. That was not relevant, especially about the group 27 Northstars which are crazy expensive and are not OEM fit (it is actually the 27F that will fit a Cherokee, not the 27M (marine) ; I pointed to that one becauswe it is the only (relabelled) group 27 Northstar sold by our Canadian Tire chain stores, was using it as a price example only). You guys can find a premium group 94R Northstar AGM (or the X2 Power clone at Batteries+) for under $300. Now there are very similar premium group 94R Odysseys (pure lead thin plate AGMs) at Autozone for $250.

2) 14.4V or 13.7V running can both be Ok, depending on many factors. *Running* means this is alternator output, not battery voltage per se. We can't determine battery health or state of charge when the engine is running, basically. If you had gotten running voltage in the 12V range or lower, then yeah charging system problem for sure. Not the case here.

12.1V resting voltage, however... is low. If you had zero drain on the battery when you checked it (no key in ignition, no lights etc..) then I'd say your battery is dying for sure.

Problem with these batteries, in a Cherokee, is that when they start to go, they don't neessarily die in a predictable way. I've heard members say they put theirs on a charger overnight with no benefit. That's likely because the BCM monitors battery health, meaning how it handles drains and charges, so even a freshly charged unhealthy battery would not *pass* system checks, and cause problems.

Suggesstions for a battery :

1) If you'd prefer spending under $200 for an OEM clone AGM (Johnson Controls flat plate AGM), then the lowest price I've seen lately is Autozone's Duralast Platinum group 94R ; they had a coupon thing going, not sure it is still in effect.

Ok I see Walmart is still showing some H7 AGMs in stock, for $165 :
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Platinum-AGM-Battery-Group-h7/40685088
(that is the exact same Johnson Controls group 94R AGM sold everywhere. H7 = group 94R)

You may find other stores that carry teh group 94R (or H7) AGMs, like Pep Boys, Advanvced Auto Parts, Sam's Club, etc...

2) The Northstar 94R. Hard to find right now, but the X2 Power (it's a Northstar) is available at Batteries+ for $279 (after a $20 mail-in rebate):
https://www.batteriesplus.com/product-details/auto_light-truck/battery/x2power/sli94ragmdp

3) The premium Odyssey 94R (pure lead flat plate) at Autozone. Oh ! It's down from $250 to $225 :
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...ery-94r-850-group-size-94r-850-cca/937704_0_0
(just note that the price difference with Northstars may be partly because of the warranty : Odyssey is 3 years, Northstars (and X2 Power) are 5 years).

HTH


Thanks Mark_!!

Some great info in your posts! I am going to have to check and see if my battery may be causing this. @ brent, I'm seeing the same thing now, my ESS won't work at all and I haven't seen the notification in a few weeks. I wonder if our Cherokee's are at the same place in their battery lifecycle. I'll try to address this with the dealership but I'm sure they are getting pretty sick of seeing my face. I just picked up my TH from the dealership last week after getting the rear differential replaced... yeah, that's a whole 'nother story!
 

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@Mark_, have you ever heard a steady chirp or beep when said battery is failing?

Mine finally stranded me today. Started at 14.4v, then went to 14.0v when I stopped for gas. Took a few tries to get going again. It was at 13.7v after work and took several tries to get going. Dead at 12.0v after groceries. Started to chirp/beep under the hood; maybe in the location of the PCM. Needed a jump to get going again. Currently on the charger. Beeping stopped after about two minutes on the charger. The beeping makes me think it is something other than the battery; IBS, generator, PCM, ECU, BCM, IRC, VSM, etc.??? Page 1845 of the FSM starts the discussion on the battery. Diagnostics makes no mention of chirp sound. :dodgy:

Battery charger says it is at 14.6v; EVIC says it is at 14.4v after 2 hours.

FYI, the actual EVIC message seen was "Stop/Start not available, Service Stop/Start system". No mention of "battery charging".
 

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@Mark_, have you ever heard a steady chirp or beep when said battery is failing?

Mine finally stranded me today. Started at 14.4v, then went to 14.0v when I stopped for gas. Took a few tries to get going again. It was at 13.7v after work and took several tries to get going. Dead at 12.0v after groceries. Started to chirp/beep under the hood; maybe in the location of the PCM. Needed a jump to get going again. Currently on the charger. Beeping stopped after about two minutes on the charger. The beeping makes me think it is something other than the battery; IBS, generator, PCM, ECU, BCM, IRC, VSM, etc.??? Page 1845 of the FSM starts the discussion on the battery. Diagnostics makes no mention of chirp sound. :dodgy:

Battery charger says it is at 14.6v; EVIC says it is at 14.4v after 2 hours.

FYI, the actual EVIC message seen was "Stop/Start not available, Service Stop/Start system". No mention of "battery charging".
Yikes ! No, mine didn't chirp or beep, but I never got it that weak either.

Running voltages won't tell us anything about battery health, unfortunately. One meaningful voltage reading at this point would be : everything Off, remove negative battery terminal, wait a few hours and test voltage directly at battery posts with a multimeter.

I have no real idea why you are getting a "Service Stop/Start" and not "Battery charging" message... but it does appear that your battery is almost dead. For the gambling man in me, since you have the OEM battery still and with your symptoms, I'd get that battery load tested first, or... just replace it (money well spent at this point regardless).

BCM controls voltage regulation, maybe it's the one chirping. Would that mean it is faulty ? Maybe, maybe not, never seen this before...

What type of charger are you using ?
 

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Some Black and Decker smart charger the wife bought 13 years ago.
Thanks ! This one here : https://servicenet.blackanddecker.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/90104835,VEC1093DBD.pdf

So it's a decent charger, can do multi-stage charging (smart) and up to 40 Amps (not mentionning the 110 Amp burst mode for starting). Does the charger give you any error codes when you charge the battery, say in 20 Amp mode, or any mode ? You may not get any from a near death battery though, because they do accept a charge, just not a substantial one...
 

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Yep, that's the one. No unusual charging. Just says FUL at the end.

I was going to upload an audiophile, but this site only does pictures and PDFs.
For the audio file, there are a lot of free hosting options, YouTube is one of them. Do you have a GMail account ? If so, you could use Google Drive (lots of free space). Or Microsoft OneDrive.
 

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Thanks. That's a microprocessor controlled charger (aka smart). It's only 1.5 Amps which is not great for charging - it's more for maintaining/float charging - but it will charge when left hooked up long enough. If you can, hook it up for as long as you can (say 12+ hours) and maybe do that a few days in a row. After that, see how ESS behaves.

And don't worry about overcharging with those chargers ; they can be hooked up indefinitely.
Never got a chance to hook up for a long charge but I'm pretty certain it was the battery failing since it wouldn't start to come home from work this morning! Jump started and picked up the autocraft duralast platinum agm from advance on the way home. Purchased in the parking lot online with 25% off coupon and came to $162 .
 

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Never got a chance to hook up for a long charge but I'm pretty certain it was the battery failing since it wouldn't start to come home from work this morning! Jump started and picked up the autocraft duralast platinum agm from advance on the way home. Purchased in the parking lot online with 25% off coupon and came to $162 .
Yep, that sounds like a dying battery for sure. Good move, good price too !

Just make sure the battery connectors are on nice and tight, which isn't very easy to do with these specific connectors. Trick is to twist them down as much as you can on the post before tightening the nut. You can check tightness by applying twisting force on a connector (with your hand only) and see if it moves ; if it does move, best to re-tighten.

Enjoy the new battery and worry-free starts :wink:
 

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@Mark_, have you ever heard a steady chirp or beep when said battery is failing? ...
Finally got into a dealer. Stupidly, I thought they would help diagnosis the chirp. They all heard it, but didn't know what it was. After 8 hrs, they final just said it was the battery. duh!

I went with the Duralast Platinum Battery H7-AGM Group Size 94R 850 CCA.
 

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Finally got into a dealer. Stupidly, I thought they would help diagnosis the chirp. They all heard it, but didn't know what it was. After 8 hrs, they final just said it was the battery. duh!

I went with the Duralast Platinum Battery H7-AGM Group Size 94R 850 CCA.
Heh... well who knows, maybe the IBS does go into chirp mode when voltage or some other parameter drops below a certain point...

Well good, now hopefully it's all fixed. Keep us posted !
 

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New battery did NOT fix the problem. Photo taken about 48 hours after new battery. The problem I have with lame service techs is that they never drive to root cause; they only do the bandaid approach. :frown:
Does your dealer know what the IBS is, and how to test it with their wiTECH tool ? That would be, to me, the next logical step.
 

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Yep, that sounds like a dying battery for sure. Good move, good price too !

Just make sure the battery connectors are on nice and tight, which isn't very easy to do with these specific connectors. Trick is to twist them down as much as you can on the post before tightening the nut. You can check tightness by applying twisting force on a connector (with your hand only) and see if it moves ; if it does move, best to re-tighten.

Enjoy the new battery and worry-free starts :wink:
Just wanted to say thanks for the troubleshooting help. ESS is working great again with the new battery. Cel was on for a few days, guessing from disconnecting the battery, but went away after a few drive cycles. Guess this a 3-4 year maintenance item. Sad!
 

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Just wanted to say thanks for the troubleshooting help. ESS is working great again with the new battery. Cel was on for a few days, guessing from disconnecting the battery, but went away after a few drive cycles. Guess this a 3-4 year maintenance item. Sad!
You bet.

Yeah, about 4 years average, depending on where you are and driving habits. It's the shortest battery life I've ever had on a vehicle myself (mine : 3.5 years).

Normal for the check engine light. When the battery is disconnected too long , it trips the CEL, then goes away after "x" amount of engine Run/Off cycles.

Enjoy your ESS :wink:
 

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You bet.

Yeah, about 4 years average, depending on where you are and driving habits. It's the shortest battery life I've ever had on a vehicle myself (mine : 3.5 years).

Normal for the check engine light. When the battery is disconnected too long , it trips the CEL, then goes away after "x" amount of engine Run/Off cycles.

Enjoy your ESS :wink:
Think battery life can be extended by turning off ess every time you get in the vehicle?
 
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