[Flybynightcru]

Most of us do our first "write" operation by turning off the fog light dropout and then proxy align.

That's exactly what I did...😁😉😎

 

[Bob Blaylock]

So, I got this OBD-II device from Amazon, because it was the one that the AlfaOBD page seemed to most recommend for my vehicle. It arrived within a few hours of when I ordered it. The documentation for it points me at this software, OBDLink, to run on my phone.

This device does work with AlfaOBD, and lets AlfaOBD access things that it can't through my generic OBD-II device. But the OBDLink seems to be better than AlfaOBD for retreiving DTCs. AlfaOBD makes me go down to a particular module, to scan for DTCs on that module, while OBDLInk lets me scan the whole system, for all the DTCs in all the modules.

OBDLink found all of these DTCs on my Jeep. The first image is what I got at first. I told it to clear all the DTCs, but only two went away leaving the five shown in the second image.

On more careful examination, I see that the two that went away with the clear DTC command, are the two that I was able to retrieve with AlfaOBD using my generic OBD-II device before the new one arrived.

So, any further advice, based on these?

I've been running out to my Jeep to try things, and back in to my computer to keep typing this post. The last such cycle, I was here at my computer, and realized I hadn't checked to see if I still had the ASS error after clearing DTC. I went out, and it's gone. No ASS error. I took it for a drive, and no ASS error. I even enabled ASS and observed it working as the idiots who designed it intended it to work. So, I guess one of the two DTCs that went away is the one that ASS was complain about. U113E would be my guess. ON advice from a similar thread in a different forum, I had been checking the connector on the IBS, and noted that it didn't seem to be plugged in all the way. Perhaps that caused the U113E fault, which persisted until I cleared it. I've made sure that it's plugged in tightly, now, so perhaps that fault won't come back, and if it doesn't come back, perhaps the ASS error won't come back.

I wonder if I should worry at all about any of the other DTCs that show up. They don't turn on the Check Engine light, they don't show up on a generic OBD-II scan, and if not for my investment in AlfaOBD and/or this fancier OBD-II device, I would never have known that they were there. I can confirm that as far as I can tell, both the front and rear wipers work just fine.

 

[Bob Blaylock]

So, I guess one of the two DTCs that went away is the one that ASS was complain about. U113E would be my guess.

On looking again, the other DTC that went away was P1483—Starter Relay 2 Stuck Off. I've never noticed any issue with the starter, but if the ASS system thought there was anything dubious about the starter or any part of the supporting system, then that would be a very good reason for it to not shut the engine down gratuitously, and risk not being able to quickly start it up again, when needed.

 

[Bob Blaylock]

On looking again, the other DTC that went away was P1483—Starter Relay 2 Stuck Off. I've never noticed any issue with the starter, but if the ASS system thought there was anything dubious about the starter or any part of the supporting system, then that would be a very good reason for it to not shut the engine down gratuitously, and risk not being able to quickly start it up again, when needed.

Well, @Seanette and I went for a drive of about sixty miles, total, over several hours, in the Jeep, and the ASS error has not come back. Maybe it's fixed. If not, then at least I am much, much, much closer to knowing where to look, next.

 

[Gary Kline]

So, I got this OBD-II device from Amazon, because it was the one that the AlfaOBD page seemed to most recommend for my vehicle. It arrived within a few hours of when I ordered it. The documentation for it points me at this software, OBDLink, to run on my phone.

This device does work with AlfaOBD, and lets AlfaOBD access things that it can't through my generic OBD-II device. But the OBDLink seems to be better than AlfaOBD for retreiving DTCs. AlfaOBD makes me go down to a particular module, to scan for DTCs on that module, while OBDLInk lets me scan the whole system, for all the DTCs in all the modules.

OBDLink found all of these DTCs on my Jeep. The first image is what I got at first. I told it to clear all the DTCs, but only two went away leaving the five shown in the second image.

On more careful examination, I see that the two that went away with the clear DTC command, are the two that I was able to retrieve with AlfaOBD using my generic OBD-II device before the new one arrived.

So, any further advice, based on these?

I've been running out to my Jeep to try things, and back in to my computer to keep typing this post. The last such cycle, I was here at my computer, and realized I hadn't checked to see if I still had the ASS error after clearing DTC. I went out, and it's gone. No ASS error. I took it for a drive, and no ASS error. I even enabled ASS and observed it working as the idiots who designed it intended it to work. So, I guess one of the two DTCs that went away is the one that ASS was complain about. U113E would be my guess. ON advice from a similar thread in a different forum, I had been checking the connector on the IBS, and noted that it didn't seem to be plugged in all the way. Perhaps that caused the U113E fault, which persisted until I cleared it. I've made sure that it's plugged in tightly, now, so perhaps that fault won't come back, and if it doesn't come back, perhaps the ASS error won't come back.

I wonder if I should worry at all about any of the other DTCs that show up. They don't turn on the Check Engine light, they don't show up on a generic OBD-II scan, and if not for my investment in AlfaOBD and/or this fancier OBD-II device, I would never have known that they were there. I can confirm that as far as I can tell, both the front and rear wipers work just fine.

View attachment 234049 View attachment 234048

Hey Bob,

Regarding what you're seeing in the app, "OBDLink", you'd need to check to see if they have a support website (unless someone here on the Forum uses it and responds). I've used lots of apps over the year- some that miss many codes and some that seem to display codes for things that aren't happening (sometimes I've seen codes pointing to a part that doesn't even exist!)

This is why many of us use either AlfaOBD, DiagFCA or JScan. They're Jeep (CDJR)-specific. 'Generic' apps, like OBD-Link, will almost always be reliable on the Engine/Powertrain ("P") codes but beyond that, results can vary widely.

 

[Bob Blaylock]

So, @Seanette and I went for another drive, of a bit over eighty miles today, the ASS error returned, once. I shut down the engine, and started it again, and it did not return for the rest of the day.

On returning home, I scanned with OBDLink, once again, and I see that the DTC P1483—Starter Relay 2 Stuck Off has come back.

So, now I'm looking to suspect that Starter Relay 2 may be a bit dubious, as @skwormin suggested…

You did check the starter relays?

https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/posts/3025706/

So, how to find it?

I assume that the objects in the fusebox in the engine compartment, that are labeled “5810-0783” are all relays, and that one of them is Starter Relay 2. But which one? I cannot find anything useful in the owner's manual. There's a diagram inside the cover to this fusebox, but it is printed very faintly, and is not readable under any lighting that I have yet been able to apply to it. I tried to take a picture, but I could not enhance it enough to make it readable. I bet that if I could read it, it would tell me exactly which relay is the one in question. I may have to try again tomorrow, during daylight hours, and see if I can get better lighting sufficient to allow a useable picture of the inside of the fusebox cover.

Does anyone know where I can find a good copy of the diagram that is inside the fusebox cover? The owner's manual, as I said, does not seem to contain it; and Googling for it has so far been unfruitful.

 

[Flybynightcru]

Does anyone know where I can find a good copy of the diagram that is inside the fusebox cover? The owner's manual, as I said, does not seem to contain it; and Googling for it has so far been unfruitful.

See if this helps Bob. Everything should be the same. There was an issue with the starter relays on some 2020's. Bad batch of cheap Chinese units or something. It's probably a good idea to replace both with Denzo or Bosch relays. They're not expensive...😉😎

https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/posts/3056143/

 

[Bob Blaylock]

Does anyone know where I can find a good copy of the diagram that is inside the fusebox cover? The owner's manual, as I said, does not seem to contain it; and Googling for it has so far been unfruitful.

See if this helps Bob. Everything should be the same. There was an issue with the starter relays on some 2020's. Bad batch of cheap Chinese units or something. It's probably a good idea to replace both with Denzo or Bosch relays. They're not expensive...😉😎

https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/posts/3056143/

I find videos to be an extremely inconvenient way to get information of this sort.

Can nobody just provide me with a readable copy of the diagram that is very poorly printed inside the fusebox cover? That, and nothing else, is what I need right now. I find it utterly absurd that this diagram is not to be found in my owner's manual, nor can I seem to Google it. Every other car that I have ever had, from my 1969 Falcon, up through our 2016 Dodge Dart, has had a diagram in the owner's manual for every fusebox, showing where each fuse/relay is located, what what it is for. The manual for this Jeep contains instructions for replacing fuses, but it is utterly useless without a way to know which fuse is which.

 

[Bob Blaylock]

See if this helps Bob. Everything should be the same. There was an issue with the starter relays on some 2020's. Bad batch of cheap Chinese units or something. It's probably a good idea to replace both with Denzo or Bosch relays. They're not expensive...😉😎

https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/posts/3056143/

Looking over that thread, I did find this link, which looks like it might be useful.

So, it looks like, if I am making any correct sense of this, that I am now narrowed down to the two relays that appear at the lower right, and circled on my picture of my fusebox, now rotated to match the diagram. I think I'll swap them, now, so that if the flaky one fails again, it'll do something different, and perhaps I'll see the difference.

Got a link to buy a recommended high-quality version of this part?

 

[Flybynightcru]

Got a link to buy a recommended high-quality version of this part?

I'm not sure if the issues were with the K3 or K1, but it's probably a good idea to change both. I'm not positive, but I think they're the same relay. Best to cross reference the part numbers on the current pair. My 2019 came with Denzo relays, and I've no issues. Any reputable auto parts store should have these...😎

 

[Bob Blaylock]

I'm not sure if the issues were with the K3 or K1, but it's probably a good idea to change both. I'm not positive, but I think they're the same relay. Best to cross reference the part numbers on the current pair. My 2019 came with Denzo relays, and I've no issues. Any reputable auto parts store should have these...😎

It looks to me like there are ten different instances of the same relay, in this box. I was assuming that the 5810-0783 would be a useful part number for which to Google, but doing so has been fruitless. Realizing that there was some printing on the side, I pulled one, and took a picture of that side. Googling 18340A1 doesn't seem to help, either. Perhaps I'll just try going to an auto parts store, showing them the relay, and see if they can match it.

 

[Mark_]

According to a post I found (from this forum), the 2020 problematic relay is the Run/Start relay K9.

Source : https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/posts/2989214/

Pic of Star case : https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/posts/2959309/
(picture resolution is pretty good, I downloaded it and zoomed in so I could see it is relay K9 and there is an arrow pointing to it).

 

[Bob Blaylock]

So, just to put this here, to make sure I can easily find it…

Part numbers for the relay in question:

• Denso 68406797AA
• Denso 68244159AA
• Mopar 68244159AA

So the Part number for the relay has changed. It is now Mopar 68244159aa.

Here's a link to the updated Star Online Publication S2108000002 Rev. C

 

[AZJeeper]

Here's a link to the updated Star Online Publication S2108000002 Rev. C

 

[Bob Blaylock]

Here's a link to the updated Star Online Publication S2108000002 Rev. C

Regarding the notice in that document:

CAUTION: Denso relay part number 68244159AA can only be used in the Run/Start relay location. Premature relay failure will occur if used in other locations. Other locations require relays which can handle higher duty cycle requirements. ​

As far as I can tell, there are ten relays in this box, all identical, of which K9 is one. Why would this document encourage the use of this specific part in only one of those locations, and what would be the correct part in the other nine?

In any event, I have confirmed that the relay in my K9 position is is a Denso relay, so I assume that I do not have the issue described in this document, nor is there any reason to replace K9. Any reason to think otherwise?

 

[1coopgt61]

Regarding the notice in that document:

CAUTION: Denso relay part number 68244159AA can only be used in the Run/Start relay location. Premature relay failure will occur if used in other locations. Other locations require relays which can handle higher duty cycle requirements. ​

As far as I can tell, there are ten relays in this box, all identical, of which K9 is one. Why would this document encourage the use of this specific part in only one of those locations, and what would be the correct part in the other nine?

In any event, I have confirmed that the relay in my K9 position is is a Denso relay, so I assume that I do not have the issue described in this document, nor is there any reason to replace K9. Any reason to think otherwise?

View attachment 234114

When I had the issue with the K9 relay it was happening when it was about 5 degrees F outside and the car was 7 months old. I took this to the dealer https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10220559-9999.pdf and they ordered the Relay for me. Had it within a couple of days problem solved.

 

[AZJeeper]

Regarding the notice in that document:

CAUTION: Denso relay part number 68244159AA can only be used in the Run/Start relay location. Premature relay failure will occur if used in other locations. Other locations require relays which can handle higher duty cycle requirements. ​

As far as I can tell, there are ten relays in this box, all identical, of which K9 is one. Why would this document encourage the use of this specific part in only one of those locations, and what would be the correct part in the other nine?

In any event, I have confirmed that the relay in my K9 position is is a Denso relay, so I assume that I do not have the issue described in this document, nor is there any reason to replace K9. Any reason to think otherwise?

The notice says P/N 68406797AA is the correct relay, but for K9 (and K9 ONLY) "In the event 68406797AA is on backorder, another validated Denso relay to use is 68244159AA." It also says in the red that "Other locations require relays which can handle higher duty cycle requirements." That means that 68244159AA will work OK as a substitute for the starting relay, but other applications where the relay is worked harder (i.e. higher duty cycle) it wouldn't meet FCA's requirements.

What's really interesting to me is if you look up Mopar 68406797AA, many sites show 68244159AA replaces this relay. But this Star Case says not to substitute (except for K9). I can only hope I never need to replace any of those relays!! Or if I do it's not on backorder!

Your relay looks like it may be an older version of the relay as everything I can find for Mopar 68406797AA shows different numbers printed on the relay (and different again for 68244159AA). If it's any consolation, my 2019 TH/E has Denso relays 5810-0783 same as yours, but with a different number under the "MADE IN JAPAN".

Even though you already have a Denso relay, it doesn't mean it's not bad. A quick swap with another relay with the same P/N would eliminate it as being the source of the problem.

Welcome to the confusing world of automotive parts!

 

[Bob Blaylock]

The notice says P/N 68406797AA is the correct relay, but for K9 (and K9 ONLY) "In the event 68406797AA is on backorder, another validated Denso relay to use is 68244159AA." It also says in the red that "Other locations require relays which can handle higher duty cycle requirements." That means that 68244159AA will work OK as a substitute for the starting relay, but other applications where the relay is worked harder (i.e. higher duty cycle) it wouldn't meet FCA's requirements.

What's really interesting to me is if you look up Mopar 68406797AA, many sites show 68244159AA replaces this relay. But this Star Case says not to substitute (except for K9). I can only hope I never need to replace any of those relays!! Or if I do it's not on backorder!

Your relay looks like it may be an older version of the relay as everything I can find for Mopar 68406797AA shows different numbers printed on the relay (and different again for 68244159AA). If it's any consolation, my 2019 TH/E has Denso relays 5810-0783 same as yours, but with a different number under the "MADE IN JAPAN".

I'm finding the description confusing, but let's see if I am making proper sense of it, consistent with your understanding…

• 68406797AA is the most correct part to use in all ten positions.
• 68244159AA is an acceptable substitute, only in K9; and should not be used in any of the other positions.
• Since I am looking at K1 and K3, I should only use 68406797AA , and not 68244159AA, in those positions.

Does this match your understanding?

 

[AZJeeper]

I'm finding the description confusion, but let's see if I am making proper sense of it, consistent with your understanding…

• 68406797AA is the most correct part to use in all ten positions.
• 68244159AA is an acceptable substitute, only in K9; and should not be used in any of the other positions.
• Since I am looking at K1 and K3, I should only use 68406797AA , and not 68244159AA, in those positions.

Does this match your understanding?

That's how I understand it!

 

[Frank Morin]

The ASS Eliminator arrived today, and I have installed it, and it appears to be working as it should. It works just a bit differently than I expected, but that's OK.

What I was expecting is that every time you started the engine, it would turn ASS off. What it really does is to remember the setting the last time you turned it off, and turn it to that setting when you restart.

Installation was rather more complex than I expected. The place where it needs to connect in is buried rather deeply in the dashboard, and required more disassembly than I expected.

My one big complaint is the lack of printed instructions. The only instructions offered were in the form of a YouTube video. I guess too many people no longer believe in plain, old-fashioned paper and ink, but there are some circumstances where that is by far the best medium, with modern digital media being a very, very poor substitute; and this is certainly such a circumstances.

Bob this is the reply I got from stopstarteliminator :
The device will not resolve any issue with your start/stop. Whatever you are experiencing will continue to happen with the device installed, so there is no need to buy it.

All the device does is toggle the switch to OFF at startup.

Jessica Lambert
TRL Automotive

The Issue I have on my 16 TH is that the s/s said unavailable service start stop. Any underlying issues with said s/s and with the eliminator plugged into the OBD port or online way up in the dash will still give out issues.