[BurtonRW]

Something in my Trailhawk's brain is completely hosed. Not sure which part, but it's most definitely electrical. Start/Stop was unavailable, then a little later the power steering would cut out intermittently, and by the time I got back home from a short day trip (a couple of hours on the road), the EVIC was lit up like a Christmas tree - completely random - including ABS, traction control, battery/charging system, etc. I saw the "battery saver mode" for the first time (and I've been through various electrical issues before), so that was new. It got so bad that I ended up in limp mode, managed to get to off the road, and parked. Had to get it towed to the dealer (on dollys and a lift b/c the parking brake was locked up and I couldn't get power to disengage it). Coincidentally, I already had an appointment for this morning to do at least a proxy alignment and whatever else if they found anything.

I made the appointment at the dealer I did because I was told that there was an appointment available this morning. I left the night drop envelope with a note to call me first thing before trying to move it. They called at 7:30, I told them what was going on, and they told me they wouldn't be able to look at it for 7-10 days!

The service advisor I spoke with was no help. Just told me that their call center (yep, they outsource service scheduling), makes appointments for customers to speak with service advisors - not for service. She couldn't explain why I needed an appointment to do that, since if I just walked in and spoke with a service advisor any time they were open, they'd be able to tell me when they could get me in and make an appointment at that time if I wanted to do so.

The service manager (who I requested a call from) called me about an hour later and basically told me that the call center should have advised me that the appointment wasn't actually for service (she said "we'll get with them"), but then two minutes later, admitted that the reason they do that is to get customers in the door figuring they usually won't bother to leave before the work on their vehicle is done.

Well... this isn't just about inconvenience. I paid a tow truck to take my vehicle there because I had a confirmed service appointment. Now I'm waiting for a call from the service director (supervisor of the service manager, apparently) so I can give them the option of a) reimbursing me for the tow, b) figuring out how to shuffle my vehicle to the top of the stack, or c) covering a rental while they have my Cherokee.

I also asked to speak to the GM, who I figure is probably the only one with the authority to make most of that happen. They told me flat out that the GM "is not available" pretty much ever.

--------------------------------

So... that's the background. Now that you know the situation - I've called no fewer than 10 dealers within a 50 mile radius. Of the 7 that actually picked up (not counting one of the 10 that also uses a call center which tried to snow me with an "appointment" for tomorrow), none of them actually have any openings for the next two weeks.

My MaxCare warranty will only cover service by a dealer and I can't get anyone at Mopar to have an intelligent conversation about what hoops must be jumped through to get authorization for warranty service at a non-dealer shop.

Is this a nationwide problem? If your dealer is NOT overwhelmed with work, I'd be curious to know where you're located.

If anyone has gotten Mopar to cover warranty work by a non-dealer, please tell me your tale.

I'm just about to the point that I'm considering legal action, if for no other reason than to get someone's attention and shake things loose (hopefully).

-Rob

 

[sanghill]

Check the battery per this Forum.
If the battery isn't dead yet it will be in 7 to 10 days just sitting around.
You must have Check Engine codes.

 

[BurtonRW]

Check the battery per this Forum.
If the battery isn't dead yet it will be in 7 to 10 days just sitting around.
You must have Check Engine codes.

I don't, actually. The only engine codes are pre-existing P0420/P0421. I checked for new codes as soon as the idiot lights started coming on (and off, and on again).

I'll be very glad if it's just the battery. In fact, if it's stuck there on the lot collecting dust, maybe I'll go buy a new one and change it sitting right there on their lot. Wouldn't be covered under warranty anyway, so I might as well give it a go and at least rule that out as a problem. On the other hand, if that doesn't set things back in order, I've got a brand new, overpriced AGM battery sitting idle for a week with God knows what kind of parasitic crap happening to it.

ETA: Just returned a voicemail that the service director left while I was in a deposition. Spoke with another advisor who let me know that the shop foreman is looking at my Cherokee now and they'll call me back when they know what's going on. Looks like they decided to go with Option B. Fingers crossed.

-Rob

 

[Mark_]

I don't, actually. The only engine codes are pre-existing P0420/P0421. I checked for new codes as soon as the idiot lights started coming on (and off, and on again).

I'll be very glad if it's just the battery. In fact, if it's stuck there on the lot collecting dust, maybe I'll go buy a new one and change it sitting right there on their lot. Wouldn't be covered under warranty anyway, so I might as well give it a go and at least rule that out as a problem. On the other hand, if that doesn't set things back in order, I've got a brand new, overpriced AGM battery sitting idle for a week with God knows what kind of parasitic crap happening to it.

ETA: Just returned a voicemail that the service director left while I was in a deposition. Spoke with another advisor who let me know that the shop foreman is looking at my Cherokee now and they'll call me back when they know what's going on. Looks like they decided to go with Option B. Fingers crossed.

-Rob

Brand new AGM ? When was that put in ?

 

[BurtonRW]

Brand new AGM ? When was that put in ?

No, no. I mean if I go buy one, take it over to the dealer, and put it in myself. If that doesn't fix it, I would have a brand new AGM battery sitting idle while they waited to get to my Cherokee.

The current battery is a Duralast Platinum I put in on 9/20/21, so only about 15 months old. Shouldn't be the battery, unless something damaged it.

-Rob

 

[Mark_]

No, no. I mean if I go buy one, take it over to the dealer, and put it in myself. If that doesn't fix it, I would have a brand new AGM battery sitting idle while they waited to get to my Cherokee.

The current battery is a Duralast Platinum I put in on 9/20/21, so only about 15 months old. Shouldn't be the battery, unless something damaged it.

-Rob

Thanks... Hmmmm. What you described in your initial post does strongly hint at a battery related issue. 'Related' meaning could be battery, loose connector(s), bad ground strap, etc...

15 months is not old at all, should still be good unless defective or severely drained (you would remember that).

So now I'm thinking a bad connection somewhere, like a bad ground...

 

[kvn4]

No, no. I mean if I go buy one, take it over to the dealer, and put it in myself. If that doesn't fix it, I would have a brand new AGM battery sitting idle while they waited to get to my Cherokee.

The current battery is a Duralast Platinum I put in on 9/20/21, so only about 15 months old. Shouldn't be the battery, unless something damaged it.

-Rob

that duralast platinum battery has a 3 year free replacement on it. if it is the battery

 

[BurtonRW]

Interesting... I just spoke to the service director - the shop foreman will personally take care of my Cherokee, which should be more on a 3-4 day track now. That's fine & it is what it is. He did ask him to take a quick look so they'd have something to tell me.

50+ codes (which were not showing on my reader, but whatever - I'm sure they're there based on every light on the EVIC eventually coming on). He asked me, "you know the center console is loose and there's a lot of stuff 'hanging down' under there, right?". Well, no. No I didn't. The last time the dash and console were removed was when the other dealer (used to be my go-to) removed it to replace my A/C system in August. Haven't had any issues since, but they didn't reinstall my driver's side A-pillar cover incorrectly, which I've been irritated by, so it's no wonder that the dash wasn't re-installed properly.

Anyway - shop foreman says at least one loose CAN bus connector, maybe other issues, but they agree it looks electric. I authorized the diagnostic fee to get it in line ASAP for a complete look. After he clears two other problem vehicles he's working on, he'll get to mine. First order of business will be confirming a good battery and charging as necessary, then comes the rest.

My next vehicle will be something pre-1968. Simple electronics, no computers, and an engine bay I can work in without having to remove half the components each time I want to perform basic maintenance tasks. Maybe a '67 GTO.

-Rob

 

[Mark_]

Interesting... I just spoke to the service director - the shop foreman will personally take care of my Cherokee, which should be more on a 3-4 day track now. That's fine & it is what it is. He did ask him to take a quick look so they'd have something to tell me.

50+ codes (which were not showing on my reader, but whatever - I'm sure they're there based on every light on the EVIC eventually coming on). He asked me, "you know the center console is loose and there's a lot of stuff 'hanging down' under there, right?". Well, no. No I didn't. The last time the dash and console were removed was when the other dealer (used to be my go-to) removed it to replace my A/C system in August. Haven't had any issues since, but they didn't reinstall my driver's side A-pillar cover correctly, which I've been irritated by, so it's no wonder that the dash wasn't re-installed properly.

Anyway - shop foreman says at least one loose CAN bus connector, maybe other issues, but they agree it looks electric. I authorized the diagnostic fee to get it in line ASAP for a complete look. After he clears two other problem vehicles he's working on, he'll get to mine. First order of business will be confirming a good battery and charging as necessary, then comes the rest.

My next vehicle will be something pre-1968. Simple electronics, no computers, and an engine bay I can work in without having to remove half the components each time I want to perform basic maintenance tasks. Maybe a '67 GTO.

-Rob

Hahaha... well, that was unexpected. But sounds like a good lead there. Hope they can pinpoint the problem quickly...

 

[Gary Kline]

Something in my Trailhawk's brain is completely hosed. Not sure which part, but it's most definitely electrical. Start/Stop was unavailable, then a little later the power steering would cut out intermittently, and by the time I got back home from a short day trip (a couple of hours on the road), the EVIC was lit up like a Christmas tree - completely random - including ABS, traction control, battery/charging system, etc. I saw the "battery saver mode" for the first time (and I've been through various electrical issues before), so that was new. It got so bad that I ended up in limp mode, managed to get to off the road, and parked. Had to get it towed to the dealer (on dollys and a lift b/c the parking brake was locked up and I couldn't get power to disengage it). Coincidentally, I already had an appointment for this morning to do at least a proxy alignment and whatever else if they found anything.

I made the appointment at the dealer I did because I was told that there was an appointment available this morning. I left the night drop envelope with a note to call me first thing before trying to move it. They called at 7:30, I told them what was going on, and they told me they wouldn't be able to look at it for 7-10 days!

The service advisor I spoke with was no help. Just told me that their call center (yep, they outsource service scheduling), makes appointments for customers to speak with service advisors - not for service. She couldn't explain why I needed an appointment to do that, since if I just walked in and spoke with a service advisor any time they were open, they'd be able to tell me when they could get me in and make an appointment at that time if I wanted to do so.

The service manager (who I requested a call from) called me about an hour later and basically told me that the call center should have advised me that the appointment wasn't actually for service (she said "we'll get with them"), but then two minutes later, admitted that the reason they do that is to get customers in the door figuring they usually won't bother to leave before the work on their vehicle is done.

Well... this isn't just about inconvenience. I paid a tow truck to take my vehicle there because I had a confirmed service appointment. Now I'm waiting for a call from the service director (supervisor of the service manager, apparently) so I can give them the option of a) reimbursing me for the tow, b) figuring out how to shuffle my vehicle to the top of the stack, or c) covering a rental while they have my Cherokee.

I also asked to speak to the GM, who I figure is probably the only one with the authority to make most of that happen. They told me flat out that the GM "is not available" pretty much ever.

--------------------------------

So... that's the background. Now that you know the situation - I've called no fewer than 10 dealers within a 50 mile radius. Of the 7 that actually picked up (not counting one of the 10 that also uses a call center which tried to snow me with an "appointment" for tomorrow), none of them actually have any openings for the next two weeks.

My MaxCare warranty will only cover service by a dealer and I can't get anyone at Mopar to have an intelligent conversation about what hoops must be jumped through to get authorization for warranty service at a non-dealer shop.

Is this a nationwide problem? If your dealer is NOT overwhelmed with work, I'd be curious to know where you're located.

If anyone has gotten Mopar to cover warranty work by a non-dealer, please tell me your tale.

I'm just about to the point that I'm considering legal action, if for no other reason than to get someone's attention and shake things loose (hopefully).

-Rob

Just an FYI for the future, if you've got AAA or other tow service that doesn't cost then of course, go with a tow however if you have to pay out-of-pocket or are worried they'll drag the car with the parking brake on, I recall seeing a posting where some guy just disconnected the L & R electric parking brake motors. They're only held on to the back side of the calipers by two screws and then you back out the piston prawl with an 8mm spline bit (or probably could turn it with a thin screwdriver as easily). I'd need to look under my TH but if it's accessible w/o taking off the wheel it would be sweet in the event of an electrical/CANBUS failure.

 

[rumrunner]

My next vehicle will be something pre-1968. Simple electronics, no computers, and an engine bay I can work in without having to remove half the components each time I want to perform basic maintenance tasks. Maybe a '67 GTO.

oh man only had 1 ride in a GTO, as a young teenager, 1973?. an older kid took me & my girlfriend for a ride on a parkway, at night. he had upgraded that car & when he opened it up, I had never heard an engine sound like that before. my girlfriend was terrified & got sick. he slowed down so she could "toss-her-cookies" out the window. what a hell-raising ride that was!

 

[Flybynightcru]

oh man only had 1 ride in a GTO, as a young teenager, 1973?. an older kid took me & my girlfriend for a ride on a parkway, at night. he had upgraded that car & when he opened it up, I had never heard an engine sound like that before.

If you thought that was cool, you need to take a ride with me on the track, in the Shelby...LOL!!!😉😎

 

[BurtonRW]

UPDATE: They had the battery on the charger for 3+ hours this morning and it tested a little over 240 CC amps. 3 hours doesn't seem like too much to me, even on a rapid charger, but 240 amps is way low, regardless. Obviously dead after 15 months, which a Duralast Platinum shouldn't be, so I've got to go pick it up and take it to AutoZone for a replacement. It would be pretty amazing if that was the only problem - but I never would have suspected such a fresh battery, so I'm thinking they're going to find more once they can get it back up and running.

-Rob

 

[Mark_]

UPDATE: They had the battery on the charger for 3+ hours this morning and it tested a little over 240 CC amps. 3 hours doesn't seem like too much to me, even on a rapid charger, but 240 amps is way low, regardless. Obviously dead after 15 months, which a Duralast Platinum shouldn't be, so I've got to go pick it up and take it to AutoZone for a replacement. It would be pretty amazing if that was the only problem - but I never would have suspected such a fresh battery, so I'm thinking they're going to find more once they can get it back up and running.

-Rob

Strange indeed... Sounds like there may be parasitic drain somewhere. Have you installed any accessories lately ? Could also be a defective cell/battery as well.

 

[BurtonRW]

Strange indeed... Sounds like there may be parasitic drain somewhere. Have you installed any accessories lately ? Could also be a defective cell/battery as well.

No new accessories (hardly any old ones). So possibly a defective battery (I had a cell in the OEM battery go bad, actually - probably the only downside of AGM batteries). But... I'm still thinking there are other issues.

I know I need brakes soon - how low do the pads have to get before the ABS goes haywire? I've heard stories... And if it's related to that and somehow the charging system decided to take a nap while I was coming back from PA, well, that would explain the battery... but it should charge back up if that was the case, shouldn't it?

-Rob

 

[Mark_]

No new accessories (hardly any old ones). So possibly a defective battery (I had a cell in the OEM battery go bad, actually - probably the only downside of AGM batteries). But... I'm still thinking there are other issues.

I know I need brakes soon - how low do the pads have to get before the ABS goes haywire? I've heard stories... And if it's related to that and somehow the charging system decided to take a nap while I was coming back from PA, well, that would explain the battery... but it should charge back up if that was the case, shouldn't it?

-Rob

Charging system 'took a nap' ? Please share...

 

[XJ99]

These Cherokees are really hard on batteries. Doesn't matter which engine,
start/stop, etc. 99.999% of the time it's the battery. Both the 2018 2.4 and
the 2019 3.2 had the batteries replaced with in 2 years of being brand new.

Sounds like there may be parasitic drain somewhere.

Like a Jeep KL?

 

[rumrunner]

If you thought that was cool, you need to take a ride with me on the track, in the Shelby...LOL!!!😉😎

 

[Flybynightcru]

I never would have suspected such a fresh battery, so I'm thinking they're going to find more once they can get it back up and running.

My original Mopar battery lasted 14 months. Replaced under warranty, and ran it for a year or so, and replaced it with the biggest, baddest battery money can buy, the X2 Power. Bought mine right before they went from the 5yr free replacement down to 4yrs...😎

 

[MikeR.]

I think I'm on year 2 of my X2, and I do not treat it nice. Heavy long frequent winch pulls, leaving light bars on for hours, auxbeam and dash camera wire for always on, letting it sit for days without driving it, etc. From time to time it does take a bit to recharge fully, but that's to be expected when I'm not driving it. Working great though.