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2019 Trailhawk Elite
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am still in the process of finding a Cherokee looking at a bunch of 2019 some Trailhawks Elite's and some Limited's loaded up. But some of these potential cars do not have a trailer hitch. I will need a hitch for light towing and for a bike rack. How difficult and expensive is it to install a hitch. Does the Cherokee have all the wiring needed? Does it need and coding done at dealership?

I installed a Mopar class 3 hitch in my 2011 Grand Cherokee and the wiring was there I just had to install the hitch and swap the bumper cover. Easy work and not too pricey, wondering if this is the same.

Thanks so much, I will post pics of new car when I finally get it. Right now driving daughters 2008 Lincoln MKZ, nice car but so low LOL
 

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I had a great experience with a factory order for my 2014 TH.
Got exactly what I wanted and it hadn't been sitting around on a dealer parking lot collecting leaves.
The worst part was the 'wait'. But it was worth it. Not sure if you can factory order a Cherokee anymore.
Adding a stock tow hitch is possible but is labor intensive and more expensive than just ordering it from the factory.
Search this Forum for more information.
 

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The harness should be plug-and-play, but you will need to get your ECM re-flashed at the dealer to enable the circuits.

Installing the Mopar hitch has the advantage of being tucked up and out of the way. However, there is some bumper trimming involved.

Also, if you get a 2019+ vehicle (and some 2018's I believe) with ADII and you use the Mopar hitch, you will also have the bonus of having your official tow rating bumped up to the maximum. There are a few members on this forum that made sure the dealer made it official. Otherwise, your towing capacity will be limited to non-tow weights.

Do a search of the "Recommended Reading" below. There may be a few other nuggets I've overlooked.
 
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If you never tow heavier than 2000 lbs, any hitch will do. If you go aftermarket, it is going to be a below bumper install. Not as pretty for sure, but if you off-road, you lose some departure angle as well.
 

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Adding a stock tow hitch is possible but is labor intensive and more expensive than just ordering it from the factory.
Search this Forum for more information.
For a 2019+ trailhawk its pretty much install hitch install wiring and flash.

. How difficult and expensive is it to install a hitch. Does the Cherokee have all the wiring needed? Does it need and coding done at dealership?

I installed a Mopar class 3 hitch in my 2011 Grand Cherokee and the wiring was there I just had to install the hitch and swap the bumper cover. Easy work and not too pricey, wondering if this is the same.
Wiring isnt there. its a PITA to install.. interior removal type pita.
The actual hitch isnt bad if you get a trailhawk you dont need the extra piece of plastic that other models do.. hitch replaces the bumper beam.

Wiring is pricy and laborious .. but with the way the electronics are on KL's I'd only recommend the factory wiring.. not an aftermarket solution.

Dealer and expect 700$+ Needs turned on in the computer too.
 

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2014 TH 3.2, 2" lift, 1" spacers, Steelies
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I am still in the process of finding a Cherokee looking at a bunch of 2019 some Trailhawks Elite's and some Limited's loaded up. But some of these potential cars do not have a trailer hitch. I will need a hitch for light towing and for a bike rack. How difficult and expensive is it to install a hitch. Does the Cherokee have all the wiring needed? Does it need and coding done at dealership?

I installed a Mopar class 3 hitch in my 2011 Grand Cherokee and the wiring was there I just had to install the hitch and swap the bumper cover. Easy work and not too pricey, wondering if this is the same.

Thanks so much, I will post pics of new car when I finally get it. Right now driving daughters 2008 Lincoln MKZ, nice car but so low LOL

Hi @rlefig , with a TH it's fairly easy to do. I got everything I needed on eTrailer.com. Class 3 hitch made specifically to fit my 2014 Trailhawk and wiring kit. Only took 2 hours for me to install using normal tools (1/2" socket drive set, torque wrench etc.)
  • It replaces the factory bumper and bolts right into the rear "frame" member where the factory hitch/bumper goes. The hitch receiver comes out the slot in the fascia where the factory hitch would come out of. As @Mark_ noted, if you go with a generic-fit/u-Haul hitch they're usually come out from under the muffler area seriously cutting into your ground clearance.
  • The wiring kit plug is 100% plug & play. It does require running a wire direct to the battery (fuse protected of course) but it took me only 15 min to do that. It's active (powered) so only uses your car wiring on the left stop/right stop/tail light to 'trigger' the lights for the trailer. As it doesn't put a draw on the Cherokee CANBUS electrical, there's no codes to deal with, no re-programming the Body Controler, no need to use AlfaOBD etc. It's 100% PnP.
A factory hitch is officially rated to a higher towing weight so any aftermarket will officially be lower even ones like the one I got that mounts directly into where the factory would (not sure if FCA did that to sell Tow Package Add-ons or for liability purposes ;-). A factory hitch also include a different final-drive ratio but unless you're towing something big & heavy, the Cherokee does fine. (I tend to use Sport mode when towing anyway to get better low speed torque). I've towed u-Hauls, had bike racks, luggage carriers etc. in it. Not officially factory/Mopar but was only $250 and works/looks great.

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Tire Wheel Automotive tail & brake light Car Vehicle registration plate
 

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Hi @rlefig , with a TH it's fairly easy to do. I got everything I needed on eTrailer.com. Class 3 hitch made specifically to fit my 2014 Trailhawk and wiring kit. Only took 2 hours for me to install using normal tools (1/2" socket drive set, torque wrench etc.)
  • It replaces the factory bumper and bolts right into the rear "frame" member where the factory hitch/bumper goes. The hitch receiver comes out the slot in the fascia where the factory hitch would come out of. As @Mark_ noted, if you go with a generic-fit/u-Haul hitch they're usually come out from under the muffler area seriously cutting into your ground clearance.
  • The wiring kit plug is 100% plug & play. It does require running a wire direct to the battery (fuse protected of course) but it took me only 15 min to do that. It's active (powered) so only uses your car wiring on the left stop/right stop/tail light to 'trigger' the lights for the trailer. As it doesn't put a draw on the Cherokee CANBUS electrical, there's no codes to deal with, no re-programming the Body Controler, no need to use AlfaOBD etc. It's 100% PnP.
A factory hitch is officially rated to a higher towing weight so any aftermarket will officially be lower even ones like the one I got that mounts directly into where the factory would (not sure if FCA did that to sell Tow Package Add-ons or for liability purposes ;-). A factory hitch also include a different final-drive ratio but unless you're towing something big & heavy, the Cherokee does fine. (I tend to use Sport mode when towing anyway to get better low speed torque). I've towed u-Hauls, had bike racks, luggage carriers etc. in it. Not officially factory/Mopar but was only $250 and works/looks great.

View attachment 221394

View attachment 221392
I know that with a V6, any TH or ADII (2018+) already has the higher final gearing (same as Tow package). And the full-size spare.
Perhaps some dealers would accept to update the VIN with Tow package with a setup like yours, but I can't be sure. Official word is : get a Mopar hitch, have the dealer install it with the wiring, they enable Tow group and update VIN for max towing caapcity.
 

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2014 TH 3.2, 2" lift, 1" spacers, Steelies
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I know that with a V6, any TH or ADII (2018+) already has the higher final gearing (same as Tow package). And the full-size spare.
Perhaps some dealers would accept to update the VIN with Tow package with a setup like yours, but I can't be sure. Official word is : get a Mopar hitch, have the dealer install it with the wiring, they enable Tow group and update VIN for max towing caapcity.
Thanks @Mark_ . One of the downsides of having a 2014.... It was before all the TH's came with the 3.517 final drive ratio. My build sheet says I've got the default 3.251 (I don't have factory tow).

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I got all giddy one day when going through my AlfaOBD I noticed an option under "ConfigChange/Final Drive Ratio". In my naivety I thought I could just possibly change the setting and "poof", I'd get the advantage of a higher gearing. @nocaps educated me in the post Does the Tow Package actually give you different gears? that the physical gears in the Power Take Off unit (PTO) are different in the Tow package vs non-Tow package builds. That's why I guess it needs to be ordered as a tow group from the factory. Pre-2018 there were two different PTO's.

I don't tow over 2,000 lbs anyway so it's never been an issue and when using Sport mode, it's nice and peppy taking off from a dead-stop. Unless I upgrade to a 2018+ I think I'm stuck 🥺

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I installed mine. It was Mopar with a Mopar wiring harness. There are a couple of versions of the wiring harness available. One connects directly to the battery and connects to the brake lights, and the other connects to the fuse box I think. The one that connects to the battery is a PITA to install but works right away. Getting through the tiny space in the firewall for the harness is beyond frustrating. I don't know about the other.
 

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2019 Trailhawk Elite
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi @rlefig , with a TH it's fairly easy to do. I got everything I needed on eTrailer.com. Class 3 hitch made specifically to fit my 2014 Trailhawk and wiring kit. Only took 2 hours for me to install using normal tools (1/2" socket drive set, torque wrench etc.)
  • It replaces the factory bumper and bolts right into the rear "frame" member where the factory hitch/bumper goes. The hitch receiver comes out the slot in the fascia where the factory hitch would come out of. As @Mark_ noted, if you go with a generic-fit/u-Haul hitch they're usually come out from under the muffler area seriously cutting into your ground clearance.
  • The wiring kit plug is 100% plug & play. It does require running a wire direct to the battery (fuse protected of course) but it took me only 15 min to do that. It's active (powered) so only uses your car wiring on the left stop/right stop/tail light to 'trigger' the lights for the trailer. As it doesn't put a draw on the Cherokee CANBUS electrical, there's no codes to deal with, no re-programming the Body Controler, no need to use AlfaOBD etc. It's 100% PnP.
A factory hitch is officially rated to a higher towing weight so any aftermarket will officially be lower even ones like the one I got that mounts directly into where the factory would (not sure if FCA did that to sell Tow Package Add-ons or for liability purposes ;-). A factory hitch also include a different final-drive ratio but unless you're towing something big & heavy, the Cherokee does fine. (I tend to use Sport mode when towing anyway to get better low speed torque). I've towed u-Hauls, had bike racks, luggage carriers etc. in it. Not officially factory/Mopar but was only $250 and works/looks great.

View attachment 221394

View attachment 221392
thanks @Gary Kline that looks great. I will mostly be using it for a bike rack and maybe tow a small cart/trailer thing to the compost dump with leaves and such. No towing boats or full trailers
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
nice I am getting a trailhawk and will get mopar hitch. what is the part number and is it the same as the compass? because a cherokee trailer hitch part number shows up on a compass site for cheap but it is the cherokee trailer hitch part number
 

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From what I see :

Cherokee hitch (all model years) :
82213349AD
(add bezel #82214562 for all non TH trims)

Compass hitch :
82215105AD >> 2018 to 2021 Compass TH + 2017 Compass Limited
82214659AD >> 2018 to 2021 Compass all trims except TH + 2022 Red

So no, not the same.
 

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2019 Trailhawk Elite 2.0T Olive Green Metallic Pearlcoat
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Anyone notice the hitch on the back of the car is prone to rust at all? starting to get rusty...
Mine isn't, and I use mine a lot. I'm very careful though, I don't leave my hitch in the receiver when I'm not using it, and keep the rubber cap on it when not in use. Also, my safety chain hooks are dipped, and haven't scratched up the receiver. If you do have surface rust, you can easily clean it up with some sandpaper and a little black paint...Ya, I'm that anal...LOL!!!😎
 
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