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I don't know how the brakes are designed.
It there is a piston(s) in the caliper for the inboard and out board pads then maybe a piston is stuck.
Possibly new calipers would solve your problem?
Possibly the brakes need to be bled to remove air in the lines?
Usually there is something that slides on the caliper which allows the pads to contact the rotor.
If the sliding surface is not lubricated correctly the slide action doesn't work.
Make sure the brake pads and rotors are OEM.
Try to find a brake shop that really knows their stuff.
I defer this discussion to someone more brake competent than I.
 

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Might as well include the tone rings in each wheel hub and the wheel hub.
The wheel hub is bare steel, it WILL rust just like the rotors. The only difference is you can't see the wheel hubs.
When they get rusty enough they will break the tone rings. Fairly common where lots of salt is used.
When I wanted to replace my wheel hubs I wanted to coat them with something to prevent corrosion.
I know powder coating doesn't work, I put brand new rear brake drums on my Olds. Had them powder coated. They are now rusty.
Of course that was probably 15 years ago so maybe that doesn't count.
Never did figure out what would work as a rust preventive coating.
Any effective steel coating should be applied at the factory, then press in the tone ring.
The brake rotors in my 2014 TH rust, more when it is humid, less when it is dry. Just what I learned in High School Chemistry.
So I go for test drives to deter the rodents, de-rust the rotors and charge the battery.
If FCA ever has reasonable quality control and designs and manufactures parts to last we wouldn't be able to afford the vehicle.
The market is very competitive, make and sell something inexpensively and make your profit selling parts and paying for the labor to replace the inexpensive parts.
Back when I was working on Military stuff that was Mil Spec and tested multiple times throughout its manufacture, the parts still failed.
I think Murphy is winning.

My recent solution when I bought my 2014 TH was to place a Factory Order.
Jeep was equipped just like I wanted, it was only driven by somebody from the truck to the shop.
The transmission "learned" my driving style. My Jeep was never used for test drives.
Rotors didn't get rusty, battery didn't discharge, the tires didn't get flat spots sitting for months on the lot and the cowl under the wiper blades didn't get filled with tree seeds and leaves.

So now I am doing my own custom destruction by going off road. That is the price of having fun.
I have destroyed every vehicle I have owned, my Cherokee won't be any exception.
 

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Check this Web site: How to Prevent Brake Rotor Surface Rust | PowerStop.
Then I went here for my 2014 TH:
Looks like these don't rust. I don't understand how the friction surface could be coated?
Seems to me they would still rust.

This is the rest of the story: 2018 Jeep Cherokee North. Rear Rotors completely rusted
The inboard side of my rear brakes rotors were so rusty they no longer contributed to good braking. Replaced the rotors.
 
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