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I bought a 2016 TH new, and off the lot I had brake/vibration problems. I got it into the dealer the same week and they ended up replacing all 4 rotors. They said "because it had sat for several months on the dealer lot they were too rusted to be used". My driving habits with this car are minimal, I work from the home besides the occasional meeting, random store trips, etc, I manage to drive about 1-2 days a week in it, for about 6500miles/yr (I live in the country so it's a trip to go anywhere). Either way it's consistently 1-2 days a week, I've always had/have a sports car, so my driving style is very spirited with hard braking into corners etc. I'm not light footed. The car is also garage parked 100% of the time, and it has seen minimal snow/salt. Standard midwest rain. Okay, so that was the past 2+ years. About 8 weeks ago I started noticing a slight sound sometimes when accelerating from a stop or more specifically taking a hard turn real slow, I was thinking it was a joint/knuckle/something and wasn't overly worried about it. About 4-6 weeks ago the noise started to get worse. About 4 weeks ago I noticed it was everytime I braked and after letting up off the brakes. By this point the noise was a very distinctive metal->metal brake/scraping noise. I was thinking maybe I had a stuck caliper or something. Noticed some light rust around the hub of the outer rotor, but didn't bother to inspect the inner. By this point my braking power in the car was noticeably diminished. I stuck to driving the car once a week until I could get into the dealership today... Sure enough the inner rotor on all 4 wheels was nearly 100% rusted, despite the outters being fine-ish. See attached pic from the dealer. I thought well clearly this is a defect, I have ~16k miles on this car/brakes, I drive it weekly, the outters are fine, it should be covered under my 10 year bumper to bumper warranty? Nope. The cause of my brake problem is "I don't drive the car enough - I need to put at least 12k miles on it a year"... Was the most absurd thing I've ever heard. I literally have a stack of rotors in my garage aging 2-10years that have less rust then these. I have a vehicle parked outside that hasn't moved in a year that looks better then this. Clearly this is the same issue that happened when I got the car, off the lot of the dealer, and now slowly/rapidly-lately, happening again. I don't know if it's the rear dust shield that traps moisture in too well, or if somehow my inner pads aren't contacting well enough, or the metal/materials are deficient. But the dealer wanted 850$ to replace all 4, and after a heated debate, I left with my car and no work done. The problem is it takes me so long and so much of my time to drive to the dealer, two trips cost me more time then it would be if I replaced all of them myself (around 400ish in parts).



My problem/questions here are... Is this a known "feature"? Is there any hope I have of escalating this within Jeep to get it covered? Is it a problem with the metal they use on the rotors themselves maybe? Should I just replace them myself and not try to mess with the dealer anymore? I had a great experience with this dealer getting things fixed when it was less than a year old, but now I'm into a purchased_from_them 10yr bumper-to-bumper extended warranty, the experience is different. Should I file complaints elsewhere? This is definitely a major safety issue.


FYI pic was taken after about a 100 mile hard drive, I guess the little bit of shine you see there was all it managed to actually break free in that time.



Any advice?


Thanks.
 

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I'd try contacting Chrysler, but break components usually arnt covered unless you can prove it's not normal wear. I'd say your millage is not extraordinarily low I averaged about 6k a year in my 08 caliber,(but I drove my caliber every day multiple times a day) but that was a good chunk of city and I had the R/T AWD and I drove it pretty sporty with hard breaking to the point at about 5 years 30k in, it was time for new breaks and rotors etc. But I'm wondering if maybe since it sounds like yours is less stop and go it's just not quite doing the trick, and the fact that it's just a couple trips a week.
 

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Hi... I have a 2016 Trailhawk that has rusty rotors as well. I put about 20,000 km per year on the vehicle and drive it daily. The nasty rust looks terrible and shouldn't be happening on a vehicle in this price range imho.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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FCA will do nothing for you , My best advice to you is to get your brakes done at a good brake shop or do them yourself and do NOT use factory JUNK Brake PARTS to replace them.
My 2015 Brake rotors warped at about 8,000 miles, all 4 rotors started rusting . Then at around 18,000 miles and a little over 2-1/2 years old the back brakes started sticking and i could smell them heating up and giving off a burning smell, the dealer said that the brake pad retaining clips had rusted so badly they fell apart and caused the pads to freeze up. so they put new clips on the back brakes for $120. The front rotors continued to fall apart from rusting so bad, so i had them done with aftermarket ceramic pads and new hardware and aftermarket rotors. The new front rotors , pads and clips are holding up well with no rust now and the back factory rotors are rusting and the drivers rear is falling apart from rust again. so soon im going to replace them with aftermarket brake parts too. I have a little over 26,000 miles on my Cherokee, live in Northern Michigan where they use Sand and salt on the roads in the winter, nowhere near the amount of salt they put on the roads in lower Michigan where i used to live, and none of my other cars ive had have ever had their brake parts rust away and fall apart. This includes my wifes 2008 Jeep Liberty and she drives through way more crap in the winter then i do.
 

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I don't know how the brakes are designed.
It there is a piston(s) in the caliper for the inboard and out board pads then maybe a piston is stuck.
Possibly new calipers would solve your problem?
Possibly the brakes need to be bled to remove air in the lines?
Usually there is something that slides on the caliper which allows the pads to contact the rotor.
If the sliding surface is not lubricated correctly the slide action doesn't work.
Make sure the brake pads and rotors are OEM.
Try to find a brake shop that really knows their stuff.
I defer this discussion to someone more brake competent than I.
 

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I had a similar vibration sometimes bad and other times not that bad, but persistent. I read other forums and found there is a thing called rotor imprinting. If you start and stop a lot (city driving), then park with hot brakes and put on the electronic parking brake, the pads can imprint onto the rotors.

Try not using the parking brake for a while and see if it goes away.

Cheers
 

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what brand did you use?
sorry never got back to this post,
I had a local shop i use do the brakes they are very reasonable for labor so im not messing with them myself. They got the pads and rotors from Advanced Auto not sure of brand. they had done my Wifes front brakes on her 2008 Liberty and they stopped beautifully and stayed rust free on the important braking surfaces so i had them do mine also.
 

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Wife's 2018 has over 40k with no brake issues, rust or otherwise.
Same on my 2019 TH that just broke 20k. Only reason is we take
it on all the road trips to keep the miles off the 2018.

Not sure if they changed the pads/rotors in 2018, or maybe found
a different manufacture? Just a FYI on my 2018/2019 KL.....
I'll most likely stick with OEM since the 2018 has some
miles on them, with no problem... 0.02
 

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My 2019 got warped rotors after only 2000 miles of mostly city driving. I took it to the dealer and they said brake related stuff was not covered under warranty. Either poor design or cheap parts.
 
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Were they actually warped, or did they have uneven pad deposits on them? I ask because that is a common cause of a pulsating pedal. This is most commonly seen in mostly city driving because...doh...you use your brakes a lot more than on the highway. Pads can transfer material onto hot rotors when stopped, causing irregular friction and a pulsing pedal. Can happen to any vehicle, I’ve seen it on BMW and GM.

Re-bedding your brakes can fix that for free. To tell if they are actually warped you will need to use a dial caliper to measure any runout.


.
 

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Were they actually warped, or did they have uneven pad deposits on them? I ask because that is a common cause of a pulsating pedal. This is most commonly seen in mostly city driving because...doh...you use your brakes a lot more than on the highway. Pads can transfer material onto hot rotors when stopped, causing irregular friction and a pulsing pedal. Can happen to any vehicle, I’ve seen it on BMW and GM.

Re-bedding your brakes can fix that for free. To tell if they are actually warped you will need to use a dial caliper to measure any runout.


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I asked the dealership if they measured the runout with a dial and they said yes. But they could have been lying to me.
 

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My 2019 got warped rotors after only 2000 miles of mostly city driving. I took it to the dealer and they said brake related stuff was not covered under warranty. Either poor design or cheap parts.
So in another post you stated that you bought the car used and thought it was a Press Car and said at 8500 miles after you personally had put 2000 miles on your vehicle, you took it to the dealer and found out the brake issue you were having was due to warped rotors. So is this a new problem after putting new brakes on and driving another 2000 miles ? Also how was your vehicle built in Nov of 2017 and it’s a 2019 model? Or is this a mistake in your personal info in your posts?
 

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So in another post you stated that you bought the car used and thought it was a Press Car and said at 8500 miles after you personally had put 2000 miles on your vehicle, you took it to the dealer and found out the brake issue you were having was due to warped rotors. So is this a new problem after putting new brakes on and driving another 2000 miles ? Also how was your vehicle built in Nov of 2017 and it’s a 2019 model? Or is this a mistake in your personal info in your posts?
No the 2000 miles was the original issue. I haven't replaced anything yet. As far as I'm aware my vehicle rolled off the assembly line nov 2017. It's in-service date (i.e. when the warranty started) was Jan 2018.
 

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Now I’m confused. Did you notice “warped rotors” with 2000 miles on the odometer, and now you’ve driven it a total of 8500 miles? And the sticker on the inside of the driver’s door states a build date of Nov 2017? (There is no “as far as I’m aware”, the build date is plainly marked on every vehicle.) Not trying to start an argument nor am I doubting what you have said, I’m just not clear on the facts here...



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No the 2000 miles was the original issue. I haven't replaced anything yet. As far as I'm aware my vehicle rolled off the assembly line nov 2017. It's in-service date (i.e. when the warranty started) was Jan 2018.
So what I’m trying to get straight is ,the OP me and some others were discussing the fact that we bought the Cherokees new not used and have these issues with the warping and heavy rusting. It appears that your problem is not the same as ours because your vehicle was not new like ours , it was used and was a press car that was beat on by multiple people who probably destroyed the rotors on yours from abuse that’s why they are warped . And you never said yours are rusting and falling apart like the OP started the discussion about.
My next statement is a fact unless someone can set me straight, how can your Cherokee be built November 2017 and be a 2019 model. I don’t believe any 2019’s would have an in service date of January 2018, that would be a 2018 model.
 

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Fact: The KL refresh in MY 2019 was extensively covered by the press including test drives.
Fact: The article below was published in January 2018.
Fact: If the article was published in January 2018 the vehicle would have to have been built before it was test driven.
Fact: A build date of late 2017 is perfectly reasonable.
Fact: I took me 90 seconds of searching to discover the facts.

 

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Fact: The KL refresh in MY 2019 was extensively covered by the press including test drives.
Fact: The article below was published in January 2018.
Fact: If the article was published in January 2018 the vehicle would have to have been built before it was test driven.
Fact: A build date of late 2017 is perfectly reasonable.
Fact: I took me 90 seconds of searching to discover the facts.

Not disputing anything you posted, but just curious where these 2019 press cars would have been built...in someone's garage or an extremely small assembly facility? AFAIK, from 2017 on, the KL is built in the Belvidere Assembly plant. I wouldn't expect them to be building 2 year models at the same time (although I guess it's possible) and my 2018 KL was built in January of 2018...just before production of that year model stopped.
 

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Fact: The KL refresh in MY 2019 was extensively covered by the press including test drives.
Fact: The article below was published in January 2018.
Fact: If the article was published in January 2018 the vehicle would have to have been built before it was test driven.
Fact: A build date of late 2017 is perfectly reasonable.
Fact: I took me 90 seconds of searching to discover the facts.

Thank you for the info, the articles I saw in early 2018 January - February gave a timeline of a couple months or so from the time of writing to availability. But I also never thought about the in service date of a press car being so early and still being sold to the public, but that does make sense. I knew they had an early model year release but also didn’t know they were selling 2018’s and 2019’s new at the same time. That’s why I said someone correct me . You stating it took 90 seconds of searching to find the date, I searched for longer then that now and still never found and exact release date for the 2019 model. So I’m curious if anyone else with a 2019 model NON press car was also built and released so early.
 
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