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Refer to VEHICLE SECURITY ALARM in the Owner's Manual. Near page 19.
Page 19 :

To Disarm The System The Vehicle Security Alarm can be disarmed using any of the following methods:
• Push the UNLOCK button on the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter.
• Grasp the Passive Entry Unlock Door Handle with a valid Key Fob available in the same exterior zone (if equipped). Refer to Keyless Enter-N-Go™ in Things To Know Before Starting Your Vehicle for further information.
• Cycle the vehicle ignition system out of the OFF position.
• For vehicles equipped with Keyless Enter-N-Go™ , push the Keyless Enter-N-Go™ Start/Stop button (requires at least one valid Key Fob in the vehicle).
• For vehicles not equipped with Keyless Enter-NGo™, insert a valid key into the ignition switch and turn the key to the ON position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Page 19 :

To Disarm The System The Vehicle Security Alarm can be disarmed using any of the following methods:
• Push the UNLOCK button on the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter.
• Grasp the Passive Entry Unlock Door Handle with a valid Key Fob available in the same exterior zone (if equipped). Refer to Keyless Enter-N-Go™ in Things To Know Before Starting Your Vehicle for further information.
• Cycle the vehicle ignition system out of the OFF position.
• For vehicles equipped with Keyless Enter-N-Go™ , push the Keyless Enter-N-Go™ Start/Stop button (requires at least one valid Key Fob in the vehicle).
• For vehicles not equipped with Keyless Enter-NGo™, insert a valid key into the ignition switch and turn the key to the ON position.
I have no idea what this is trying to say. But it’s not as simple as hitting unlock on the FOB. That doesn’t disarm the security thus far.
 

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Blackbird 2019_Limited_4x4 Blk_on_Blk Tech_Lux_Nav
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Something on your Data Bus is not communicating properly. I would pull codes again, also check all the fuses behind the coin tray. Each code is readily searchable on the web.
If your scanner can do it, I would try to clear all of the codes, and see what happens. You might have sent a surge through one of your modules in one of your attempts to get it running.
At the worst, the system will just throw the codes again. At best, you might get the system back, in this case, I would definitely monitor the codes once a week...
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I switch fuse F43 for the fuel pump to get it going. I was able to get it started again with very limited throttle no acceleration beyond maybe 20km/hr and 2000rpm. Security light was not on. Car would not turn off when I parked and pulled key out. Had to pull out fuse for fuel pump to stop it.

Fuses under dash seem ok.

Was able to clear codes while I had car running. All came back as listed above.
 

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Sounds like it's time for the pros.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Does anyone know if this vehicle has an integrated fuel pump relay within the TIPM? Anyone have had similar issues?

I have read many Dodge/Jeep products have had issues with the fuel pump relays necessitating a TIPM replacement, or some people replace/solder a new fuel pump relay. The symptoms would be very close to what I am experience leading me to believe I have issues here as well as with potentially other electronic component. The car can start under and I can rev/throttle in park; not in drive or reverse (very poor acceleration) and car won’t turn off. This leads me to think the relay is bad.
 

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2018 Latitude+. 2.4 AD1
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Found this on my Dodge Journey forum talking about replacing fuel pump relay. Hope it helps...



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I finally got around to taking it to the dealership for a diagnostic after getting it to my mechanic to fix a few other things.

the connector wire going into the PTU is corroded (based on codes they got anyways) andback flowing to the computer causing the various issues. The tech took out fuse F10 for the PTU meaning I am now 2 wheel drive vs 4x4. The car shuts and starts normally now. Quoted $1000 to drop transfer case and PTU to get to the connector to examine/clean and/or replace. Paid $400 for 3 hrs of diagnosis time...yay.

I don’t see any videos or much articles on this type of issue. I assume this is not a diy job but thinking a local mechanic can get this done for cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
They checked but got nothing and well out of warranty.

gonna look around. Anyone has instructions/steps on how to get to it? A friend of mine has dropped/repaired transmissions before so might be up to help look at.

I thought about hitting a carwash and blasting the undercarriage and seeing if this does anything lol. One can dream right?
 

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They checked but got nothing and well out of warranty.

gonna look around. Anyone has instructions/steps on how to get to it? A friend of mine has dropped/repaired transmissions before so might be up to help look at.

I thought about hitting a carwash and blasting the undercarriage and seeing if this does anything lol. One can dream right?
Don't think I've seen anyone on the forum attack anything close to this, sorry... Man, that's an expensive repair for connector corrosion :-/ But less than for a new PTU..
 

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2019 Trailhawk Elite 2.0T Olive Green Metallic Pearlcoat
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Depending on where you live, snow and ice removal chemicals they use nowadays are hell on electrical connections. That liquid crap they spray now is way worse than salt. That's probably the culprit...😎
 
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