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The only time my 2014 V6 TH has given lots of codes like that is when the battery was "at the end of its useful life" and when a tone ring broke as in cracked.
Then the Jeep went into "limp home mode". If you ford streams or drive where there is a lot of road salt the tone rings can easily fail.
A mechanic with a WiTECH should be able to look at signal waveforms from the various sensors to isolate the problem.
Lots of codes usually means one sensor is sending bad data to several other modules who then give their own codes.
Do a visual inspection of the engine compartment and see if you can find any damaged wiring or something broken.
Rodents like to eat the wiring.
Corroded contacts in a connector or a pushed pin can cause problems.
Get the battery tested with a good tester that provides a printout and make sure the battery cable clamps are secure.
Where the various ground cables connect to the body can corrode and mess up the electrical system, especially the battery ground cable.
If you go to a Jeep dealer have them print a VIP report, make sure all Recalls are complete and check for a applicable TSB's related to your issue.
So far I haven't had any camshaft sensor errors but I only have about 120k miles on my TH.
Listen for ticking sounds from the valve cover, bad camshaft follower bearings seems to be a chronic issue.
Let us know what you find, I am trying to stay on top of potential problems before they happen.
 

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This was my tone ring saga: Service all wheel drive
Of course my Jeep dealer wanted to replace the ABS module since it was the most expensive thing they could think of.
Then the replaced the ABS sensor cable which of course didn't fix anything.
Finally convinced them to use their WiTECH and determine the real problem which they did.
So in the bitter end it was the cracked tone ring which I had never heard of.
If you have a cracked tone ring it won't fix itself. It usually takes closer to a year for the wheel hub to rust enough to crack a tone ring.
I think your problem has been repaired? As usual I am confused.
So the bottom line is have the technician use his WiTECH and figure out the real problem.

Go to a car parts store and they will erase your codes for free.
 
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