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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, it all started driving calmly down the road....

The car shuddered, the check engine light came on, and the vechicle notified me "4x4 disabled"

I pulled over, grabbed my OBD reader, and pulled the codes:

U1424 (control unit 18)
P0390 (camshaft position (CMP) sensor B, bank 2 - circuit malfunction. Control unit 10)

Car limping, doesn't really shift above 4th gear, up to 35mph...

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Boiled down to the $36-50 cam sensor, but the one under the intake manifold.... lacking time, valuing my transportation, I had the shop diagnose and replace it. $286 parts + labor

Unfortunately.... they called me, and it didn't fix anything.

Now, it shows:

U1424(00) - (control unit 18. Status: Test Failed (current drive cycle) pending, confirmed, test failed since last DTC clear, warning indicator requested)
P0349 (CAmshaft position sensor A, bank 2 - circuit intermittent. Control unit 10)


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So... the shop told me I need a new ECM for $1100. I've deduced that in Jeeps, ECM = ECU = PCM --- can someone double confirm that? I always called it an ECU in the Honda world... I've found ECM's for as low as $230 pre-programmed, and the dealership here charges $225 for programming.

I then called Jeeps R Us, a local shop, and talked to some guy who worked there 30 years... he was like "hmmmmm.... noooo, noooo, that doesn't make sense, I mean, I've worked here 30 years, the ECM's don't go bad.... that's weird.... I would say get a second opinion... take it to another shop nearby". They're about 30 minutes from me, I'd need to have the car towed, but might do it just becuase of their experience... I have AAA so it should be covered under my membership.

I've searched for a couple hours, on these forums, and google in general, and.... man, there's not that much out there on these KL's, is there? I found this thread, but no answers... Maybe I was spoiled in the Honda game... but man, I've searched and really haven't managed to find this issue occuring anywhere else.

So, at this point, I could replace the Sensor B in Bank 2, it's super easy to get to and only $30.... but if it's something electronic, those might be just fine, non-issue.

Anyway... if anyone has any insight into this, please let me know, I'd be super appreciative! I'll post tomorrow morning when I get the new sensor into Bank 2...

Thanks!
 

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The only time my 2014 V6 TH has given lots of codes like that is when the battery was "at the end of its useful life" and when a tone ring broke as in cracked.
Then the Jeep went into "limp home mode". If you ford streams or drive where there is a lot of road salt the tone rings can easily fail.
A mechanic with a WiTECH should be able to look at signal waveforms from the various sensors to isolate the problem.
Lots of codes usually means one sensor is sending bad data to several other modules who then give their own codes.
Do a visual inspection of the engine compartment and see if you can find any damaged wiring or something broken.
Rodents like to eat the wiring.
Corroded contacts in a connector or a pushed pin can cause problems.
Get the battery tested with a good tester that provides a printout and make sure the battery cable clamps are secure.
Where the various ground cables connect to the body can corrode and mess up the electrical system, especially the battery ground cable.
If you go to a Jeep dealer have them print a VIP report, make sure all Recalls are complete and check for a applicable TSB's related to your issue.
So far I haven't had any camshaft sensor errors but I only have about 120k miles on my TH.
Listen for ticking sounds from the valve cover, bad camshaft follower bearings seems to be a chronic issue.
Let us know what you find, I am trying to stay on top of potential problems before they happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, so update today...

Installed the new Sensor A, tried to clear codes, by my reader isn't managing to clear the codes. Might need a better unit than my $10 bluetooth reader... they're all the same codes as last time.

Next step, find a reader that can clear all the codes.

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Another detail I remembered -- they didn't put it on the sheet, but they said I need a new ABS unit. Didn't give any kind of explanation. Kind of weird, last-second as I was leaving with my invoice. Almost getting sleaze vibes but I just don't know.

I'm wondering if that has to do with the tone rings you mentioned -- does that relate to these random code? I definitely did a bit of water fording the other day, we had heavy rains in southern california and I found 5-6 nice puddles to go through... got a little bit of belt squeaking after one, but nothing crazy, no more than 8 inches deep.
 

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This was my tone ring saga: Service all wheel drive
Of course my Jeep dealer wanted to replace the ABS module since it was the most expensive thing they could think of.
Then the replaced the ABS sensor cable which of course didn't fix anything.
Finally convinced them to use their WiTECH and determine the real problem which they did.
So in the bitter end it was the cracked tone ring which I had never heard of.
If you have a cracked tone ring it won't fix itself. It usually takes closer to a year for the wheel hub to rust enough to crack a tone ring.
I think your problem has been repaired? As usual I am confused.
So the bottom line is have the technician use his WiTECH and figure out the real problem.

Go to a car parts store and they will erase your codes for free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Definitely looking for someone with a WiTECH...

The car was originally in Utah, now in California, so it definitely may have seen a few years of salt.

Current status: haven't cleared the codes, not sure if I fixed it yet, need to get codes cleared at a mechanic, since my bluetooth OBD reader won't clear them for some reason (it's cleared plenty of other codes in the past, just won't do these ones)
 

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I had an issue where it was the check engine light and something about fuel pressure..
they replaced about 4 parts then the ECM and the ecm fixed it..
warrantied.
They also broke the clips on my auto dimming mirror wiring harness so they had to order that 3x too because they kept getting wrong one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So, I got it towed to a local dealer - called around until I found someone with a WiTECH. Upon the first scan, they were like "yep, it's definitely not your CPM, it looks like the body control module (BCM) lost communication, so we're going to need 3 days to do a process of elimination electrical diagnostic, but we should have the results by Tuesday!

They also said that since my car isn't past the 10-year mark (2014), they have packages for bumper-to-bumper warranty service packages I can get for a few thousand -- definitely investing in that, as I plan to mod it and keep it for awhile!

I'll let you all know what the result is as soon as I find out, but so far, it looks like the WiTECH is essential, and I'll for sure never take it back to MAC's Auto in Costa Mesa -- they were about to replace the ECM for $1100 (when I can get rebuilds for $400)... damn part changers. Change part, oops it didn't work, change another part, charge you, bunch of BS.... well, I shouldn't speak too soon, I'll know when it's fixed LOL.

Thanks for all the help in here!!
 
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